Announcement
Collapse
No announcement yet.
Official FlightLine OV-10 Bronco Discussion Thread
Collapse
X
-
Question for those that 3d printed the zuni rockets, what did you do about the slot for the foam pylon?
-
What scale pilot did you go for in the end please?Originally posted by t01ga View Post
Thanks bud. No the seats are the same, I just cut a piece of foam as in the picture. The pilots; before ordering them I assumed like you that the plane would be 1/9 scale. So the 1/9 scale pilots I got was way to be big. So I took a measurement between the front seat base and the tip of the seat head rest and ordered new pilots by that measurement.
To fit the pilots I had to cut the boots of the front pilot and just the tip of second pilots boots and enlarged the whole a little at the foot wells.
Leave a comment:
-
Well i finally caved and brought one from a local supplier here in oz.
I will be using my X20 and most likely a spare SR8 Archer+ gyro receiver with a 900Mhz Satellite hanging off it.
where have people been mounting their Gyro Receivers?
Leave a comment:
-
-
My name is Phil. I'm looking for a place to buy Flightline OV 10 parts. In particular the metric allen spinner screws. I got them with the kit but can no longer find them...... Thanks !!
Leave a comment:
-
Hey vduniec,
You posted a lot of great pictures showing your 3D printed designs early in this thread, but I don't see where people can download your files. Some of your posts have attachments, but others don't. Is it possible for you to put all your OV-10 related STL files in a zip file and share it via Google Docs or something? I would love some of what you have for my model.
Edit: Maybe I just mis-read your posts. But I saw you mention a cockpit tub, but perhaps you were referring to the individual cockpit components for FPV? I'm not doing FPV, but I will be repainting my Bronco next week and would love to put a more realistic cockpit tub into the plane while I'm working on it.
Leave a comment:
-
No problem. The support tab for each plane is just under the pictures on Motions site, further to the right from spare parts, etc. For the Bronco ESCs you need to go to the B-24 and get it there.
b24esc.pdf (shopify.com)
Calibrating the ESCs is usually easy. Turn on the radio, put the throttle stick all the way up making sure the throttle cut is not cutting the throttle. Then plug in the plane, wait until you hear the two beeps (senses high throttle) then lower the throttle to low and you'll hear more beeps (senses low throttle) and then the number of beeps for the number of cells in the battery (four). Because the Bronco has two ESCs you need to plug the batteries in together at the same time so it helps to have help. Be careful that you reduce throttle right when you hear the first two beeps. If you wait longer than, I think five seconds it'll go into programing mode and you may activate the brake (see below).
Programing isn't easy the first time around especially if you look at the pdf I attached. I would suggest not trying to change any programing and just do the calibration.
Leave a comment:
-
Evan d, Thank you for your help but for the life of me I cant find the support tab to look up the esc manual/info.Originally posted by Evan D View PostWelcome!
If you go to Motions site and look up the ESC under the support tab you should find info on the ESC. The Bronco manual will not have that info. You should calibrate every ESC when you first set up a plane and then any time you change a ESC, receiver or transmitter.
Thank again!
Hollywood
Leave a comment:
-
Welcome!
If you go to Motions site and look up the ESC under the support tab you should find info on the ESC. The Bronco manual will not have that info. You should calibrate every ESC when you first set up a plane and then any time you change a ESC, receiver or transmitter.
- Likes 1
Leave a comment:
-
JUST PURCHASED THE OV10!!!
I'm new to this site and like to say hello to all...Just ordered the ov10 today and can't wait for it to arrive. One question, I've read a lot of calibrating both esc and setting both LVC on them. Is there instructions in manual of how to do this? if not, can someone explain how to. btw I will be using a NX8 and a AR637T. Also, If one runs out of rx channel slots can you plug the bec in a y cable and share a channel and if so which one would be best to use? Thanks in advance.
Hollywood
- Likes 1
Leave a comment:
-
THROTTLE LEADS Y CABLE LOCATION?
I am trying to calibrate each motor esc separately per vipers previous instructions. My birds all assembled and I am trying to locate exactly where the "Y" cable is located that both motor throttle wires join into. The single wire side of the cable gets plugged directly into the RX. I want to locate the Y so I can remove each motor wire separately one at time from the Y so I can to calibrate the ESC for each motor by itself.
Thanks in advance for any information.
P.s. OK, I did some exploring and figured it out. Below is a way to separate each engine's throttle wire to calibrate each ESC separately using battery procedure explained previously by XViper.
Note: As received from the factory, the "throttle" wire is Y'ed at the connector side which is what was plugged into your RX. There is no regular Y-cable each engine's throttle led gets plugged into.
1. Disconnect one boom from the center wing so you can see the wire connections from the boom to corresponding wires running into the center wing portion.
2. Disconnect the throttle wire.
3. Attach a long extension wire (12-16" long) to the throttle wire coming from the wing.
4. Attach the other end of the long wire back to the throttle wire in the boom.
5. Remove the throttle wire connected to the RX and gently pull on each separate wire-one at time until you figure out and see the long wire at the boom being pulled into the center wing.
6. Continue pulling on the factory-supplied throttle cable until the long wire you attached gets into the fuse.
7. Install a short "regular" Y-cable in the RX throttle slot.
8. Insert the long wire you pulled into one side of the Y lead.
9. Bundle up the throttle lead you used to fish the long wire into the fuse. This side of the factory Y lead will not be needed.
10. Connect the factory Y lead into the other port of the regular Y lead.
11. Reassemble boom to center wing.
12. Now you can disconnect the throttle lead from each motor individually and calibrate each motor's ESC separately per Viper's procedure.
Hope this helps
Leave a comment:
-
-
Phil34 So the undetermined factor in your failure explanation is what voltage you were running the power system on ??? The stock from the factory motor wants a 4S (16vDC).
Was the power system setup per the manual ??
Running the stock configuration on the ground is not going to push the motors into overload meltdown.

Leave a comment:
-
Well hi again folks once again I'm looking for help regarding an ov10 for those of u who can remember I crashed my first one on maden and completely wrote it off and was pretty much over it until I went to a air show and saw another guy flying his so bit the bullet and got another.This time every thing assembled great no probs at all,remembered to calibrate the escs too..great.
So now to the problem,when I talked to the chap flying at the said airshow we had quite a chat and he said his go too before a maden is to run a battery pack through the plane on the ground,checking all controls,running motors at half throttle,then a third,giving a burst of full etc checking heat on escs etc.So this is what I did,,even had a stop watch running,any way every thing great until 2 minutes in LHand motor slowed a bit,,on half throttle so slowed it down and gave it another blip to about three quarters,then noticed smoke coming out both motors .Sorry this goes on,stopped it and u guessed it both motors are toast.
So any ideas anyone,escs wernt overly hot the whole test was only 2 minutes and 20 seconds,I was under the impression you could run them on the ground but my inexperience Maybe im wrong.many thanks for any suggestions in advance.
Just maybe ov10s aren't ment for me cheers
Phil
Leave a comment:
-
I'm running hrb 3300 packs in mine, I can actually go another 1 to 1.5 minutes on my flight timer. Although mine does have upgraded motors in it, not exactly sure what ones.
Leave a comment:
-
Reposting(photos from my previous post were deleted)
2 Photos
- Likes 1
Leave a comment:
-
Thanks for you're response. Much appreciated. When I mentioned a smaller battery I was comparing a 3000 or 3300 mAh battery to the 4000mAh 4s battery as per website.
I completely agree different manufacturers of batteries range in weight, size, and performance.
Your idea for a HV battery does sound interesting though as an option.
Thanks again.
Drew B.
Leave a comment:



Leave a comment: