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Assembly of Nexa P-47 (1500mm) Balsa Thunderbolt by Papa Boozer

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  • Mike1960
    replied
    Thanks Elbee

    Leave a comment:


  • Elbee
    commented on 's reply
    Yes, from the Leading Edge at the wing root.
    Use a straight edge at 90 degrees to the wing tip, mark that location at each wing tip, if you are balancing at the wing tips as your method to find CG.

  • Mike1960
    replied
    I just finished building the Nexa p47. Is the CG calculated at the wing root? The manual indicates 88 to 93 mm, but it does not specify whether this measurement is taken at the root. If anyone can provide some advice, it would be appreciated. Thanks

    Leave a comment:


  • Elbee
    commented on 's reply
    Carry on.

  • Not-So-French-Toast
    replied
    Elbee Thanks, will do! I still have some parts to order over the next couple of months, so it'll definitely be a slower work in progress. Hopefully I'll have it ready to maiden by the end of the summer

    Leave a comment:


  • Elbee
    replied
    Not-So-French-Toast

    Welcome to Hobby Squawk, glad to have you onboard.

    Thanks for your reply to an older post, good form.

    I am looking forward to seeing your build of the Nexa P-47.

    Keep us up to date on your progress, as is reasonable.

    Best, LB

    Leave a comment:


  • Not-So-French-Toast
    replied
    Robinson Parker Hopefully you've gotten an answer by now, but in case not, a youtuber said they used the landing gear from the FMS 1500mm P-47 and the trunnion from the Flightline 1600mm Corsair. I've just ordered my P47, and I have ordered the FMS landing gear and will see what I think. I haven't done the Flightline trunnion yet, but if I feel I need to will order it later.

    Have you figured out a solution though? If you have, I'd be curious to hear what you did to make it work

    Leave a comment:


  • Robinson Parker
    replied
    Landing gear?? The struts are so wobbly that I haven’t even gotten the chance to fly this bird yet. It can’t roll
    on grass due to the fact the landing gear is essentially bowing out when the plane is sat on the ground. I really want to fly my P47 but I can’t get it going! Help please 😎

    Leave a comment:


  • Elbee
    replied
    mgholl2000 Welcome to Hobby Squawk. Glad to have you onboard. Best, LB

    Leave a comment:


  • mgholl2000
    replied
    Do the retracts plug directly into the receiver through a y-harness, or is a separate controller required?

    Leave a comment:


  • Robinson Parker
    replied
    SOS! This is the last thing I need to figure out before I go fly! 😪

    Leave a comment:


  • marty 72
    replied
    Ok, the servo is fine, I'm familiar with it, it should work fine.

    Is this your first warbird? You don't need much elevator throw for warbirds. check your manual for throws, but I'm thinking +/- 12 millimeters and you are well beyond that.

    You also may want to move your easy connect coupler for the elevator. That could cause binding, it appears to be hitting the sleeving in the video (but again, I don't think you need that much movement).

    Before you drive yourself crazy, just move the elevator the required throws. Disconnect the servo arm from the two control arms and operate the elevator (each side alone) by hand and see if you have binding. If that's good, then connect the two rods together and see what happens, if that passed move on to the servo arm, ect. Go back to basics and systematically solve the problem. Check one thing at a time, verify it works and then move on to the next level of complexity.

    Your elevator hinges could also reduce your throws, it may not be drag in the control arms/sleeves. Just another thing to check.


    Just my thoughts.

    Leave a comment:


  • Robinson Parker
    replied
    Originally posted by marty 72 View Post
    Robinson,

    Let's start with what servo do you have in there? Second, just sliding the control rod by hand, how sticky is sticky? You are going to have to guess a load, 1/8, 1/4, 1/2 pound? Is it dragging equally through the range or just in one spot.

    If it's the control rod is really tight, it might need a bend in it. You are going to have to do some more experimentation to find a way to free up the control rod. But first, let's look at the servo, perhaps it's just not powerful enough.
    Here is a quick video showing what’s happening. For some idiotic reason it was actually semi-working but still not up to my standard. The elevator is too important of a control surface for “good enough”! Ha.

    Leave a comment:


  • marty 72
    replied
    Robinson,

    Let's start with what servo do you have in there? Second, just sliding the control rod by hand, how sticky is sticky? You are going to have to guess a load, 1/8, 1/4, 1/2 pound? Is it dragging equally through the range or just in one spot.

    If it's the control rod is really tight, it might need a bend in it. You are going to have to do some more experimentation to find a way to free up the control rod. But first, let's look at the servo, perhaps it's just not powerful enough.

    Leave a comment:


  • Robinson Parker
    replied
    I’ve had this plane for almost two years and still have not been able to fly it. I went out to the shop to try and toy with it again but I’m stuck. My elevator servo is having a really hard time applying any pressure to the control surface. I’ve tried adjusting the servo positions and even replaced the elevator servo. I can’t figure out why the elevator push rods are so difficult to move, even by hand they’re relatively sticky feeling. Where did I mess this up? Can anyone shine some light on my problems 😂

    Leave a comment:


  • Thimble
    replied
    Loving mine!
    Attached Files

    Leave a comment:


  • eric h
    replied
    Planning maiden flight .
    30 mm full flap is recommended in build book. Agree?
    Any recommendation for elevator mix?

    Leave a comment:


  • GuitarGuy1144
    replied
    Originally posted by Papa Boozer/Dots View Post
    Completed first assembly of motor to firewall. Papa's suggestions, Balsa planes take more time to assembly, use common sense, take your time and follow the instruction manual. I did not deviate or change anything that the instructions said to do. When cutting holes in plywood use that common sense and start with a small bit and work up, this will keep you from splinter out the back side. Also, when using bolts, washers and nuts, do not over titan. A good rule of thumb, sink the washers into the wood and stop. Motor thrust on balk head is already built in at factory, so all you do is measure to clear motor cowl. This will vary depending on motor size. Pictures WILL follow instructions per manual.
    Additional drilling “wood” tip.. once you’ve made your first smaller hole.. then as you graduate up in bit sizes, flip your drill into reverse as you drill.. I know that sounds nuts.. but it really works and almost 100% no chip out issues.

    Leave a comment:


  • billsplanevideos
    replied
    Anyone flying this with a dle 20 side exhaust?
    I ask because I have a kit built top flite zero that I’m flying with a dle 20 but the plane is really tired. Looking for a new home for all its guts.
    thanks

    Leave a comment:


  • ochoaoctavio89@icloud.com
    replied
    I ended up going with Hitec HS-85BB High Torque Micro Servo for the flap servos and for the rudder, elevator, and ailerons I went with Hitec HS-485HB Deluxe Ball Bearing Karbonite Gear Standard Servo will the bigger aileron servos work?

    Leave a comment:

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