Official Skynetic Bison XT STOL Discussion Thread

[James]

Like anything else, spambots litter our review process which is manually handled. The main thing we check for with the reviews is to confirm that the review came from someone who actually purchased the product from us. But then also some write reviews prior to getting help from our CS team if there was an issue (i.e. part not working out the box, but then we replace it but bad review written prior) etc.

But either way, it's not immediate. It's manual and we don't have someone whose sole job is to handle our reviews all day long. They get reviewed as fast as they can. But that takes time as we have 10,000 products on the site so it's a lot to cover

[FlyinTime]

Wow, pretty sad when a company sorts out what reviews they will post.

[2much2do]

Did they ever post your review? I did one a week ago and they haven't shown mine.

Nope, never posted.

[FlyinTime]

Anyone know how long it should take for a review posted to MotionRC to be visible? I posted one about 2.5 hours ago, I wouldn't expect them to be suppressing reviews.

Did they ever post your review? I did one a week ago and they haven't shown mine.

[Starck Mad]

I did an amp check with 4s and 16x10 prop- got 27.7 amps. Very little thrust. Then used the same prop with 6s and got 50 amps (ESC rated for 80) and pulls great. Will try that next flight.

We got 710 watts at 45 amps with a 17 x 10e prop on 4s...not a 16 x 10. You may want to get your watt meter calibrated...we have 2 to compare readings so we know they are reading correctly. We got 29.82 amps with the stock 16 x 8 4s prop...a 16 x 10 should pull more amps than a 16 x 8...not less. Your reading of 27.7 doesn't sound right, and the 6s reading is way off. We pulled 45 amps on 6s with the stock 15 x 8...a 16 x 10 on 6s will pull way more than 50 amps. Keep in mind as well...yes...the ESC is rated for 80 amps, but the motor may not be, and Motion warns against using the stock 4s prop that comes with the Bison on 6s...its a 16 x 8. If thats too much for the motor...then a 16 x 10 on 6s is as well. Please watch the video...just trying to help. In it you can see the testing and read the meter for yourself. We also show you the 6s readings. Hope this helps.

[Capt G]

For those of you having issues with the Bison on 4s...we did an update video after our original review showing how to get the most power on 4s...we found a very good way to maximize the 4s power set up. Check out the video for testing and flights on Model AV8R on Youtube. You'll want to see it but the short answer is use a APC 17 x 10E prop on 4s. We show all our testing to show its safe and effective in the video.

I did an amp check with 4s and 16x10 prop- got 27.7 amps. Very little thrust. Then used the same prop with 6s and got 50 amps (ESC rated for 80) and pulls great. Will try that next flight.

[JohnJS]

You only disconnect the red wire on the throttle ch3 if you power the receiver with a external BEC. If you use the ubec to power the lights you just install a red jst connector to connect to original lead from esc for the light controller, and remove the ubec out put connector, usually s servo type connector to Rx, and install the correct jst connector to light controller. I’ll post a picture of mine later. Make sure your UBEC will take 22v input. Mine goes to 26v. Then set the output jumper to 6v, or what ever the out is. Mine is 5v or 6v. Lower right connector from esc, middle to the right of ubec goes to light controller.

Wired up the UBEC as you posted, the light controller now is no where near as hot as it was without the UBEC installed. Thanks for the helpful instructions, much appreciated.
I filled out a ticket from MRC, response was "when they get the part in, it will be shipped".
My tires have held air for three days, that's a good thing
Permanently installed wing lights, two sided tape not to my liking.
Working on a few more improvements, hope to get some air under the wings soon........... New releases can be a challenge!!!

[kjoy1]

Does anyone have advice to fix a Warp wing
can’t seem to get it trim,any ideas
Thanks

[Warlox]

Does anyone know if there would be any issue running a lion battery in the bison?

[Warlox]

Yea I’ll probably just leave it alone. Can still see just not as clear. Only the voltage meter is functional. The garmin gps has two led lights behind it, but all just for a little immersion.

[Evan D]

The type of plastic in those molds is not the type that will polish out... Very unfortunate. You can cut out the "inserts" and use some plexiglass bonded some way to the areas that have channels but I can't think of much else. And the plexiglass still needs good bonding as it will still be load bearing.

How much of that dash is functional, it looks great.

[Warlox]

My bison is very close to maiden. I modeled out the cockpit a bit and made a pan tilt pilot. I haven’t had much luck with polishing the windows. I tried automotive polishing compound but I dont see much of a difference. Has anyone found a good way to clear up the side windows?

[Starck Mad]

For those of you having issues with the Bison on 4s...we did an update video after our original review showing how to get the most power on 4s...we found a very good way to maximize the 4s power set up. Check out the video for testing and flights on Model AV8R on Youtube. You'll want to see it but the short answer is use a APC 17 x 10E prop on 4s. We show all our testing to show its safe and effective in the video.

[Denc23@comcast.net]

You only disconnect the red wire on the throttle ch3 if you power the receiver with a external BEC. If you use the ubec to power the lights you just install a red jst connector to connect to original lead from esc for the light controller, and remove the ubec out put connector, usually s servo type connector to Rx, and install the correct jst connector to light controller. I’ll post a picture of mine later. Make sure your UBEC will take 22v input. Mine goes to 26v. Then set the output jumper to 6v, or what ever the out is. Mine is 5v or 6v. Lower right connector from esc, middle to the right of ubec goes to light controller.

[JohnJS]

For those of you having light controller over-heating issues, I installed UBEC in between the ESC and the light controller and all is well now. See attached photo. Using 6S5000 battery.

Was looking for a little advice on the UBEC. I installed all the lights with the black and white wires plugged into the gear position on the receiver, used a three way servo lead since I'm using a 6 channel receiver, fired up the radio, attached a 6S lipo and all worked well with the lights. Gear switch on radio turned off and on all the lights. But man did the light controller heat up to the point it was untouchable!! I have a UBEC like the one you pictured but I'm not real well versed in the install. Does the jst plug on the UBEC plug into the jst from the ESC and the two wires with no jst plug get connected to the light controller? the output wires are of a heavier gauge which has confused me a bit. Is there anything else I need to know? Can I still keep the white and black wire plugged into the gear position on the receiver. I have read that if you install a UBEC you need to disable the internal BEC by cutting the red wire, or is it ok to run both the BEC and the UBEC together. I'm new at this aspect so any advice would be very helpful.........

[FlyinTime]

The calibration is not to have the transmitter at 0 and 100. It is so the ESC learns what it is. If you have a model and it doesn't start to turn the motor with just a click up on the throttle stick the low end isn't calibrated. I have gone to help people and find their motor doesn't turn until the throttle is advanced many clicks up or even 1/4 throttle and never did a calibration. For full throttle there is really no good test but many who complain of a lack of power have it because the ESC doesn't register full throttle from the receiver.

Possible, maybe I had been lucky over the years and my luck ran out yesterday.

[Evan D]

The calibration is not to have the transmitter at 0 and 100. It is so the ESC learns what it is. If you have a model and it doesn't start to turn the motor with just a click up on the throttle stick the low end isn't calibrated. I have gone to help people and find their motor doesn't turn until the throttle is advanced many clicks up or even 1/4 throttle and never did a calibration. For full throttle there is really no good test but many who complain of a lack of power have it because the ESC doesn't register full throttle from the receiver.

[JT83]

Thanks Evan for that vital info I did a calibration on the sticks my throttle travels were ok even before I did that calibration full down was reading 0 full up was at 100. I will try that esc calibration as well.

[Evan D]

All ESCs need to be calibrated to the radio and you should recalibrate any time you change a receiver, transmitter or ESC in a plane.

With the plane battery not plugged, no bind plug inserted turn on the transmitter and turn off the throttle cut. Put the throttle at full throttle. Plug in the plane battery and listen to the first set of beeps. After the first set of beeps, a split second lower the throttle to full down. What this does is tell the ESC the throttle range to listen too. If it's your first time I would remove the prop for safety.

[JT83]

Hello Evan d I did u the 16x8 prop no I didn't calibrate the throttle is there a manual to read for that esc tell how to calibrate I've never had to do any calibration with esc before like I said tho she flew great on 6s!