Official Skynetic Bison XT STOL Discussion Thread

[JoeofDeLand]

I seem to be missing the connectors/extensions for the belly light and rudder light. Both wires end in the top rear hatch. Should they connect to the wing light harnesses so that they flash? Also dealing with the heating issue on the light controller. Waiting on tire glue and hope to maiden it later this week. Trying to decide if I want to use an Aura Light or just a Spektrum receiver. I agree with all the comments on the tail wheel - seems a little rinky-dinky!!

[Atrix]

Umm...Your photo would give you nearly 0 flap deflection. You get a couple of degrees before your rod bangs into your servo. That's why gilatrout cut his down.

It’s counter intuitive but you push to lower the flaps on this model. In the way I have it set up, I get maximum deflection. At full deflection without limiting it in the radio, they are straight down.

[2much2do]

It’s counter intuitive but you push to lower the flaps on this model. In the way I have it set up, I get maximum deflection. At full deflection without limiting it in the radio, they are straight down.

Ohhhh shoot, yeah, push for flaps, that completely makes sense. Thanks.

[MJ4RC]

Hello all, I finally maiden my Bison XT on 6S (smaller prop), best on grass for take-off and landing. Unfortunately, I have same issue with other post from overheating light controller, tail wheel, inaccurate assembly guide, loose wing LED, wiring and etc...☹

[2much2do]

Did it at least fly well at all?

[Gilatrout]

Well, even with tire glue the tires on mine won't hold air.



*sigh*


I'm definitely getting a good dose of buyers remorse here.

James, Tom, Alpha, Given the uniform and manifest problems, what/when can we expect from Motion to correct the issues? Looks at a minimum the light controller.needs.to be recalled and replaced. The tail wheel is also not up to standard MotionRC quality.

[Starck Mad]

We have a great review of this plane up on our YouTube channel "Model AV8R". Check it out guys and please sub, comment, and give us a thumbs up to help us grow the channel. Lots more from MRC to come on it!

[Starck Mad]

We addressed the tires and lights in our video. With the tires we held ours in a bowl of water to see where the leak was and added glue there. Fixed it right up. Lights were confusing at first but also turned out to be no issue...just needed a y harness. The plane is awesome to fly...worth it to get through the build. More advanced build though.

[James]

I have not attached the slat rod yet but I did not have an issue with the flap rod once I moved the servo to the one extreme. Here is a picture of what I have:

That's how it should be. With the servo in that position, you will have no slats and flaps, with the servo then at center you will be mid flap and mid slat, and 100% the opposite say would be full flaps. Obviously, you then change the endpoint throws in your TX to suit your needs.

[Atrix]

We have a great review of this plane up on our YouTube channel "Model AV8R". Check it out guys and please sub, comment, and give us a thumbs up to help us grow the channel. Lots more from MRC to come on it!

Watched your video this morning; it was great. I am going to try your setup this weekend.

[James]

I seem to be missing the connectors/extensions for the belly light and rudder light. Both wires end in the top rear hatch. Should they connect to the wing light harnesses so that they flash? Also dealing with the heating issue on the light controller. Waiting on tire glue and hope to maiden it later this week. Trying to decide if I want to use an Aura Light or just a Spektrum receiver. I agree with all the comments on the tail wheel - seems a little rinky-dinky!!

I used an 8 channel RX for this. After Throttle, Ail, Ele, Rud, Flaps in channels 1-5, I put the white and black lead in channel 6, 1 red and black in 7 and the other in 8. The white and black lead should control the lights on the wingtips and the sides of the fuse by the nose. The other two are the tail and bottom fuse light. Or you could get a 3 way lead for all the lights for a 6 channel RX

[2much2do]

Watched the video. I think buyers remorse is the right description, but I'm hoping to feel differently after flying it. *sigh

[James]

I think the long rod provides a large range of flap movement.

I was also missing the screws that mount the landing gear to the fuselage. The manual says 2.6 but the part they screw into is actually an M3 thread. I used some extras I had laying around.

Also, mistake in the manual, should say 3x14 machine screws for the main gear. you should have plenty more of the 3x14 machine screws (same used to mount the shock absorbers, but those used the nuts). The extra 5 3x14's you should still have give you 4 for the main gear and an extra if you lose one.

I will have the updated manual correction done today

[2much2do]

James It sounds like the manual should also have a section on wiring, if everyone is getting it wrong and that's the reason for the overheating and damaging of equipment.

[Atrix]

James It sounds like the manual should also have a section on wiring, if everyone is getting it wrong and that's the reason for the overheating and damaging of equipment.

I agree that the manual could be improved, but I do not think the overheating is due to wiring mistakes. I pulled the controller out of the Bison and powered it on the bench at 24V using a single wing light as load and a servo tester to activate the lights using PWM, and it got too hot to touch, my IR temp gun reads 180 degrees F.

[2much2do]

I agree that the manual could be improved, but I do not think the overheating is due to wiring mistakes. I pulled the controller out of the Bison and powered it on the bench at 24V using a single wing light as load and a servo tester to activate the lights using PWM, and it got too hot to touch, my IR temp gun reads 180 degrees F.

I see, since you have it on the power supply already, will it run off of 5V? My thought would be to replace the BEC on the ESC with something more substantial and run the whole thing at 5V.

[Atrix]

Yeah, I actually pulled out the controller to put in a step down regulator in its place, so I am not using the controller at all in the bison. I have the regulator set to 6V to match what the original controller was putting out, but I tested the wing light units (which also have an overheating issue) on the bench and they work down to 4V with much less heat. The trade off is brightness.

[Randy H]

I want to thank all of you that have purchased the Bison and given an honest opinion of this model. I was thinking of pulling the trigger on this plane but I have decided to wait for the next batch. I don't want to spend $400 on an model that I have to put a lot work into to get it right. Reminds of the MIG 29 where there seemed to be a problem with the elevator servo and some MIGS became $700 lawn darts. It seems that Motion should be more diligent in making sure that the product is right the first time out.

[Starck Mad]

Watched your video this morning; it was great. I am going to try your setup this weekend.

Thanks for watching! Keep in mind any set up is a personal thing...my set up may be too sensitive for some. If that is the case adjust your expo as needed, but the elevator throw I have is necessary to achieve the higher angles of attack I was hoping to get. This plane for me is very mission specific...I want to fly it as a scale STOL/Bush plane...including STOL contest style landings. For your first flight I would recommend a CG a little forward of where mine is and adjust that to your liking as you feel it out. I love it!

[2much2do]

So, I've made it to literally step 3 in the manual so far, and none of the screw sizes match up, some of them don't even exist in the kit. What screws are supposed to hole the top strut mount to the fuselage?

Also my landing gear was assembled incorrectly, the mounting plate was on the wrong side of the braces and had to be moved before it would fit the fuselage.

I also appear to be totally missing the screws to joining the wing braces together, the instructions just say "Use the correct screws" but there is nothing in the kit that matches the ones that are on the braces.