Announcement
Collapse
No announcement yet.
Official Skynetic Bison XT STOL Discussion Thread
Collapse
X
-
A couple hiccups, but I got her put together. Still gluing the tires so I stuck some foam tires on to complete the look.
Also, I can confirm that the light controller does not like 6S, it gets burning hot. I pulled it out and will just direct power the lights with my own regulator or a separate battery. For anyone interested, the light controller puts out 6V.1 Photo
- Likes 1
Comment
-
Atrix,Originally posted by Atrix View Post
15x8 - 6S
16x8 - 4S
They shared this during yesterday's stream
Thanks for the prop info and confirming the issue regarding the light controller. I submitted a trouble ticket to Motion RC support. I will probably use a 2S lipo for now to power the light controller. Thanks again.
Comment
-
I maidened the Bison XT this morning at my local field (asphalt runway) on 6S. I went with disconnected slats and threw a FT Aura 5 board in there just to be safe. I started on full manual, passthrough control and full rates (20% expo all around), and ground looped on the first take off attempt, got some road rash on the outside edges of the wings/ailerons. On the next attempt, I was able to power it into the air without flaps. I took it around the field and had to do quite a bit of trimming, especially (oddly) in rudder. Landings were very bouncy and tricky to control on the hard runway, and ground control is almost nil because of the relatively soft springs between the tail wheel and rudder. I got through three batteries without destroying the plane, which is a success in my book. Here are a couple notes:- The road rash from the ground loop also tore both aileron hinges. The unreinforced foam hinges here are a bit of a disappointment for a bird so beefy everywhere else. Luckily I had hinge tape and was able to field repair. If you get this kit, I would reinforce the aileron hinges before maiden.
- I lost a lock nut in the landing gear, which was surprising, but easily remedied.
- I lost one of the wing light assemblies, despite bending the pins as suggested. The issue was that the light assemblies get pretty hot which shrank the double sided tape and made them loose. As I mentioned in a previous post, I swapped the included light controlled for a regulator, so this may be on me. The regulator is set at 6V, and I am not sure if that contributed to the heat in the wing light assembly. No other LEDs got hot. I removed the other wing light before it fell off and will experiment with different voltages on the desk to see about heat. In any case, use some other means to secure these lights, just as back up.
- Tires and landing gear worked great, despite being tricky on the ground.
- The Bison is pretty power hungry. Even at full flaps (which I set at 30 degrees) I would lose altitude below 50% throttle.
1 Photo
Comment
-
I played around with the remaining wing light unit. It still works all the way down to 3.5 volts and consumes less amps at lower voltages, which may be obvious to those who are better than me at electronics. I was getting 0.4A at 6V, 0.3A at 5V, and as expected 0.2A at 4V. Lower voltages/amps means less bright lights but less heat as well. 4.0 volts seems to be a good compromise between brightness and heat, I was able to leave it powered for 10 minutes while only getting a little warm.
Comment
-
I have not attached the slat rod yet but I did not have an issue with the flap rod once I moved the servo to the one extreme. Here is a picture of what I have:Originally posted by Gilatrout View PostHas anyone noticed it had problems with the control rods being too long?
Both the flap rod and the slat rod are too long. I'll need to cut the flap rod in order to center the servo. The flat spot on the slat rod extends well past where the grub screw meets the rod as well.
1 Photo
Comment
-
I'm confused that picture makes the Flap rod look WAY too long. You set the servo up that way with the flap flush?Originally posted by Atrix View Post
I have not attached the slat rod yet but I did not have an issue with the flap rod once I moved the servo to the one extreme. Here is a picture of what I have:
Comment
-
Yeah, that's the way mine looked before I cut down the rod.Originally posted by 2much2do View Post
I'm confused that picture makes the Flap rod look WAY too long. You set the servo up that way with the flap flush?
The next issue is the manual calls for 2.6 x 12 screws for the undercarriage. The bag labeled with these are a set of self tapping screws that will not connect the undercarriage to fuse.
#edit#
It looks like the whole undercarriage instructions are incorrect. Using 9.1.2021 instructions
Comment
-
Tail wheel assembly is going to need some work. There is so much slop in the springs that the wheel hardly moves even though the rudder is moving to full deflection.
All in all, this is going together much more like an ARF instead of a PNP foamy. Little things here and there that need adjustment or fitting.
Im taking a break for today and making some wing bags for it.
Comment
-
Yeah, at the field yesterday I was hardly able to control it on the ground, turns are super wide on pavement and non existant on grass. I had to hand wheel it out to the runway. I ordered a set of assorted springs off Amazon with the idea that stronger springs will help keep the wheel and rudder connected.Originally posted by Gilatrout View PostTail wheel assembly is going to need some work. There is so much slop in the springs that the wheel hardly moves even though the rudder is moving to full deflection.
Comment
-
Umm...Your photo would give you nearly 0 flap deflection. You get a couple of degrees before your rod bangs into your servo. That's why gilatrout cut his down.Originally posted by Atrix View Post
I have not attached the slat rod yet but I did not have an issue with the flap rod once I moved the servo to the one extreme. Here is a picture of what I have:
Comment






Comment