Official FlightLine RC 1200mm F8F-1 Bearcat Thread

[Ron1950]

you guys might be checking your hinges...my elevator is torn over half way and its had one 5 min flight....going for some pin hinges today

[Grossman56]

Could be awesome Charlie!
Just got back from three more flights with her. Took off from work early to get some flying in as, again, its simply beautiful here in Cody. In the 60s with a 5 to 8 mph wind right down the runway, just begging me to come and fly!!
Ran three 4000's in her this time with the same results, all registered 70-71% and that's in a wind.
BTW, she handles the wind like it isn't there.
In a lot of ways, she reminds me of the Pandora, just tell her what to do and she does it in style!
I can't believe the weather here and am hoping for another great weekend, sooner or later, we'll pay, but I'm getting my late late season flights in and its paying off in spades.
One of the coolest looking maneuvers is to give her full throttle and a dive, then yank her back and let her climb vertically, rolling as she goes. It's not unlimited, but man its pretty darned close!!
I'm wondering what the numbers are with the upgraded motor and the stock prop.

I'm getting a 110 A draw with the static thrust calculator. Now its been a while since I've used it, so can someone run the numbers and confirm this?

Grossman56

[OV10]

Interesting Pat. I flew mine with a 3600 all the way forward and it was fine. I tried the 4000 in it to measure the CG with it all the way forward and it came out at the rearward edge of the exhaust panel, very little difference so it should fly fine. Now, with a 3600 I flew a mix of throttle positions for 5 minutes and landed wit 71% still on the batteries! So if the 6200 works, you could fly, dare I say it, for close to 10 minutes!
I'd be interested to hear how it does, let us know!

Grossman56

Based on your observed numbers with the same rate mix of throttle.........damn near 15min with that 6200 is my projection.

[crxmanpat]

Yeah, I have a 3600 also that I had planned to use. I will fly it with all 3 packs on Saturday and report back my findings.

If the 6200s work out, then I'll use those for this and the P-38, and save the 3600 and 4000 for the FMS P-40.

[Grossman56]

Interesting Pat. I flew mine with a 3600 all the way forward and it was fine. I tried the 4000 in it to measure the CG with it all the way forward and it came out at the rearward edge of the exhaust panel, very little difference so it should fly fine. Now, with a 3600 I flew a mix of throttle positions for 5 minutes and landed wit 71% still on the batteries! So if the 6200 works, you could fly, dare I say it, for close to 10 minutes!
I'd be interested to hear how it does, let us know!

Grossman56

[crxmanpat]

So I went to CG my Bearcat today. First I put in the Admiral 4S 4000 that I planned to use. With it pushed all the way forward, CG wound up at 92mm (supposed to be 85mm). So I went and got the Zippy Compact 4S 6200 that I use in my P-38, which is 6oz heavier than the Admiral 4000. Sitting 1/4" back from the forward wall, it now CGs correctly. I will test fly it this weekend with that battery.

If this works good for the Bearcat, I'll be purchasing more of them.

[Grossman56]

I believe it was HD that I got it at, but it may have been Lowes. Billings is about a two hour drive from here where all the big box stores are, so when we go we usually have a shopping list.

Grossman56

[Tsmith]

I've used Varathane on most of my planes now, having tried Minwax and found that Varathane is a bit better. You can get the same results with Minwax, just takes more layers, so....
I apply mine with a 1" foam brush and work it on width wise, then brush it length wise, front to back, once done, I'll keep an eye on in for any runs or build up and rebrush as needed. If I want to get to the next layer quickly, I'll use the hair dryer on it, on low and at a 12" distance approximately, Keeping it moving quickly. The foam will take a fair amount of heat, but hey, why chance it.
In this case, I coated it in the evening, let her sit until morning and gave it a second coat. Flew it the next day and gave her a third coat afterwards, look great with three coats.
I've tried it with an airbrush, this might be a great idea for a final coat, but I found it puts a pretty thin layer on, so it takes longer and the spray is not healthy, so maybe in a well ventilated situation, but hey, the brush works better for me. One other thing, the Varathane works great right out of the can in an airbrush, no thinning and you can use it as a glaze as well if you want to add a slight amount of color to it.
Things to watch:
Make sure your control surfaces are free after it dries.
Avoid getting it on pushrods as they can get jammed in the channels.
Same with servos, there's no need to coat them anyway.
Just remember that once its dry, its a thin coat of plastic for all intents and purposes and although it has a UV protectant, the plane is a very dark color, so avoid letting it sit in the sun, especially during those long Summer days of great flying weather we're going to have!
Ron brings up a great point as well, I now have a spare spinner and spare props for every plane in the hangar except for the Bearcat, I try to keep a minimum of two sets of prop blades for each. Going to have to get some for her as well, The incident with the P40, where I had to wait months for a new spinner taught me this lesson, for the sake of a spinner she sat from June until September, lesson learned.

Grossman56

Thanks for the tips Grossman!! Now I just need to find the Varathane locally. I may have to order it through Home Depot.

[crxmanpat]

As soon as I run out of this can of Minwax, I'm switching to Varathane. :)

[Grossman56]

I've used Varathane on most of my planes now, having tried Minwax and found that Varathane is a bit better. You can get the same results with Minwax, just takes more layers, so....
I apply mine with a 1" foam brush and work it on width wise, then brush it length wise, front to back, once done, I'll keep an eye on in for any runs or build up and rebrush as needed. If I want to get to the next layer quickly, I'll use the hair dryer on it, on low and at a 12" distance approximately, Keeping it moving quickly. The foam will take a fair amount of heat, but hey, why chance it.
In this case, I coated it in the evening, let her sit until morning and gave it a second coat. Flew it the next day and gave her a third coat afterwards, look great with three coats.
I've tried it with an airbrush, this might be a great idea for a final coat, but I found it puts a pretty thin layer on, so it takes longer and the spray is not healthy, so maybe in a well ventilated situation, but hey, the brush works better for me. One other thing, the Varathane works great right out of the can in an airbrush, no thinning and you can use it as a glaze as well if you want to add a slight amount of color to it.
Things to watch:
Make sure your control surfaces are free after it dries.
Avoid getting it on pushrods as they can get jammed in the channels.
Same with servos, there's no need to coat them anyway.
Just remember that once its dry, its a thin coat of plastic for all intents and purposes and although it has a UV protectant, the plane is a very dark color, so avoid letting it sit in the sun, especially during those long Summer days of great flying weather we're going to have!
Ron brings up a great point as well, I now have a spare spinner and spare props for every plane in the hangar except for the Bearcat, I try to keep a minimum of two sets of prop blades for each. Going to have to get some for her as well, The incident with the P40, where I had to wait months for a new spinner taught me this lesson, for the sake of a spinner she sat from June until September, lesson learned.

Grossman56

[Ron1950]

yes thanks I lost it down a heating duct I think and I am not going in there lol ill have a new set of screws tomorrow in the mail

[TiredIronGRB]

waiting on a new prop hub as I lost one of the screws that holds the blades on so cant fly mine yet.....maybe tomorrow

Make sure the screw isn't stuck on the magnets in your motor.

[Ron1950]

waiting on a new prop hub as I lost one of the screws that holds the blades on so cant fly mine yet.....maybe tomorrow

[flyingiceberg]

I now have all the decals on and am ready to apply the Varathane. I kind of messed up on the "70" decals. I put both of them on the fuselage but they are not even on both sides. One is more forward than the other. There is no way to correct this without peeling off paint so I guess I will have to live with it.

[Alpha]

Oooooh ooooh, they're back in stock. Order placed! :p

I'm glad you got on, Tsmith! Great Beechcraft Model 17, by the way!!!

[Tsmith]

Good for you TS, you'll love it!!

Grossman56

Thanks Grossman...I'm very excited to get this bird. I'm going to try varathane for the first time on this plane...any tips or tricks you guys have on applying the varathane?

[Grossman56]

Good for you TS, you'll love it!!

Grossman56

[Tsmith]

Oooooh ooooh, they're back in stock. Order placed! :p

[crxmanpat]

I did two coats of Minwax with the plane assembled. I don't plan on taking it apart, fits in the SUV just fine fully assembled. If I ever need to take it apart, a sharp Xacto blade should do the trick.

And like Grossman said, it helps seal the decals on the plane too.

[Grossman56]

For those of you who use Varathane, are you taking the plane apart to do your second and third coats? What is best to use Gloss, satin or matte? Is there any problem if you put it on after assembly and then try to take the wings off?

Hey Ice, I give her three coats of Spar Varathane gloss after assembly and after decal placement. It helps lock the pieces together, to my mind anyway.

Grossman56