Official FlightLine RC 1200mm F8F-1 Bearcat Thread

[Grossman56]

Good thing huh!
If all we liked was flying, we'd soon have nothing to fly!!

Grossman56

[borntoolate]

Same here Bob, I want to be flying some of these as long as I'm able then I'll just sit and look at them.

An excellent plan! I enjoy building, modding and flying these!


Bob

[TiredIronGRB]

I am building my second Bearcat today. I am not sure about others, but I like multiple copies of planes that I truly like. I have 2 FL P-38s, 4 FMS B-25s, 2 FMS 1400mm Zeros and about 8 of the 1875mm "Sonic" B-17s! I love to fly my favorite planes.

Bob

ps MotionRC, I am patiently waiting for more multi-motored WWII bombers!

Same here Bob, I want to be flying some of these as long as I'm able then I'll just sit and look at them.

[borntoolate]

Just curious as to why some people have bought 2 of these?

I am building my second Bearcat today. I am not sure about others, but I like multiple copies of planes that I truly like. I have 2 FL P-38s, 4 FMS B-25s, 2 FMS 1400mm Zeros and about 8 of the 1875mm "Sonic" B-17s! I love to fly my favorite planes.

Bob

ps MotionRC, I am patiently waiting for more multi-motored WWII bombers!

[TiredIronGRB]

Also, if anyone is interested in the scale diameter prop mod I did a while back, the prop I used is finally back in stock:http://www.bananahobby.com/4-bladed-...InStockEvent=1. I have no idea how many are left in stock though, now that the HSD Skyraider is discontinued though.

I put a few of these away this morning myself.

[F106DeltaDart]

Also, if anyone is interested in the scale diameter prop mod I did a while back, the prop I used is finally back in stock: http://www.bananahobby.com/4-bladed-...ueryId=1880602. I have no idea how many are left in stock though, now that the HSD Skyraider is discontinued though.

[F106DeltaDart]

It has held up to masking with delicate surface tape alright, but pretty much the same as family's primer has. A few small flakes will come up during masking seemingly no matter what you try. That is why for simple markings like camo lines, I use either slightly wet newspaper or paper towel to mask things. Simple, and leaves no opportunities to peel paint. Obviously, this is not practical for detailed subjects, like numbers, insignias, or shark mouths, but it helps to reduce the touch up work.

[Aspirin]

How is the bond? Can you mask over it without lifting up the primer? The issue with EOP is that the wax surface makes it very difficult for any paint of dies to adhere.

BTW; I often use "Frog tape for delicate surface" as my mask. I then use the hair dryer to warn up the mask's adhesive prior to unmasking. This makes it much less likely for the mask to pull the paint off the EPO.

Please note the term "warm". One does not want to expand the EPO beads!

All the best,
Konrad

[F106DeltaDart]

I have used it on both EPO and EPS, and it works great. As a general rule, if something works on EPS it won't harm EPO. EPS is much more sensitive and reactive then most types of EPO.

[TiredIronGRB]

In the FAQs Krylon said they hadn't tried that product on EPO foam. Did you have to use and "special" process?

All the best,
Konrad

Works fine on EPO...

[Aspirin]

In the FAQs Krylon said they hadn't tried that product on EPO foam. Did you have to use and "special" process?

All the best,
Konrad

[TiredIronGRB]

Krylon makes a primer that works really good to bond the fuzz, I've used it several times and love it.

[Aspirin]

I can't believe how many of you have replied. Thanks for all the suggestions! What a great community!
It is a little fuzz and some uneven spots from the tape pulling a little foam too. I circled an example of the fuzz and you can see the rest of the foam. I have watched Chris's videos. I guess I rubbed a little to hard with the paper towel and acetone.

You are more than welcomed.


Through the community we'’ve learned that there is more that one way to skin a cat. (and yes that is a bad pun)
Even with 50 years experience I too gleaned a new idea. The use of ice bags sounds intriguing to address the bane of EPO foam.
I will work on this idea and hopefully report my findings here on Hobby Squawk.

I for one am learning from your experience.
Please keep asking questions.

All the best,
Konrad

[flyingiceberg]

I can't believe how many of you have replied. Thanks for all the suggestions! What a great community!
It is a little fuzz and some uneven spots from the tape pulling a little foam too. I circled an example of the fuzz and you can see the rest of the foam. I have watched Chris's videos. I guess I rubbed a little to hard with the paper towel and acetone.

[Grossman56]

Hey, thats a good thought, CB, what would I do without you!!

Grossman56

[OV10]

Hello FIB,
If it is just foam fuzz, a little elbow grease with a 200-400 grit foam sanding block.
If it is very light scratches, go with Foam-Tac Foam Finish. If slightly deeper try some Ultra-Lite Spackle by DAP or equiv. That's all I use on foam for my smoothing compounds. If you got some minor gatoring going on, rub over it with one of those plastic freezer packs.

[Aspirin]

What is the best way to smooth out the foam after removing paint? I have some rough spots on my P51 that need to be smoothed out

What has worked real well for me dealing with the fuzz* left over from cleaning up part lines or other surface discontinuities, has been to harden the fuzzed area with a thin coat of thin CA glue. This adds rigidity to the fuzz so that the new sharp sandpaper can actually cut the fuzz. Repeat until the surface finish is close to what you want.
Then I apply a skim coat to the area using this product from MotionRC.
https://www.motionrc.com/collections...g-compound-8oz

Hints: Sand in only one direction! Back and forth is two directions!:rolleyes:

Allow the Beacon to dry fully! I like to wait two days before I sand it with new sharp 220 grit sand paper prior to adding the color coats.

* The fuzz is the foam bead’s skin it is tough and resistant to dull sandpaper. This is much the same technique one would use to sand down kevlar or other tough fibrous materials.

All the best,
Konrad

[Grossman56]

Yeah thats a good thought, Chris does some great work on his P 51, thanks Beeg!

Grossman56

[Beeg]

What is the best way to smooth out the phone after removing paint? I have some rough spots on my P51 that need to be smoothed out

Rough spots as in the shell of the foam beads are busted through or just gaps between the cells from gatoring?
Hopefully the bead shells aren't busted. Real pain to fix. If the cells themselves are busted, I put a couple coats of Water based Poly Urethane (WBPU) then sand smooth with 320 or 400grit. May have to apply new coats of WBPU then sand again till desired smoothness is achieved. You're basically creating a new shell for the foam with the PU.
If just gaps from gatoring you can use just about any filler but "HobbyLite" by Hobbico is the easiest to sand. After sanding smooth apply a coat or two of WBPU to seal the filler.
This is the way I do it. Many other methods but this way works for me.

If you haven't already done so go visit Chris's (RCGEEK) website and read/watch his article on "How to refinish a foam warbird". You can take or leave what you like but it's all good information.
http://thercgeek.com/category/how-to...-foam-warbird/

[flyingiceberg]

Thanks. Is is just a small section under the rudder and elevator. Combination of Gorilla tape and acetone left a few strands and a slightly uneven surface. It's only about the rear 6 inches of the fuselage. Duck tape was not working. I had to strip the paint off the back section so I could turn this fuselage into the Marie