Official FlightLine RC 1200mm F8F-1 Bearcat Thread

[flyingiceberg]

Just curious as to why some people have bought 2 of these?

[Alpha]

I'm guessing it's good to have spares, but moreso this model lends itself well to customization. I think the record so far is four, although I believe two of those were Christmas gifts for his friends.

[Arycon]

The FLRC Bearcat is very easy to land and tracks especially good on the ground with its wide stance landing gear. In my opinion it's the best warbird trainer out there if you adjust your throws accordingly to be very forgiving. If you want "floaty and vanilla" you can adjust it that way but If you want a little more snap turn up the rates and you can really tear up the sky with light batteries. I think most are using medium rates and 4000mAh batteries as it seems to balance the CG a little better and most say they like the feel of it with the heavier batteries myself included. I think it lands better with the heavier batteries too. I have two of them and I always take one to the field with me as a great warmup plane and just because it's a pleasure to fly. It's very versatile with batteries with its cavernous battery compartment. You can use pretty much any 4s out there from 3600's to I think crxmanpat is using 6200's. I've run 5000's just fine.
Yes, it's one color but there is no reason to fly it a half mile away. I had a Spitfire (old parkzone) painted standard camo and that was harder to see than a solid blue as it blended with the sky and terrain. Spitfires are sexy no doubt but if you have issues with landings I'd recommend the Bearcat hands down.
Thats my 2 cents..hope it helps with your decision.

I appreciate the input. I honestly dont know how to judge my landing skills considering. Ive greased my Trojan in a 15mph crosswind. I regularly grease my P-51as well. The Trojan has no gyro. P-51 does. So Im not sure how many of my mustang landings are attributed to a floaty aircraft and gyro, but Ive had some killer landings on the Trojan. My P-38 has had good landings also, but the last few not so much because of nerves. It has a severe left bank tendency attributed to wing droop at the outboard flaps. I corrected that with slow pressure to reshape the foam. It also had a locked nose gear due to a bad retract on an early flight and needed a belly landing that was not ideal but only one rudder and some gear doors were damaged. I saved it otherwise. I feel I land well and I need practice on something other than my $350 P-38 that I want to keep in good shape. I dont want vanilla or floaty. I like the speed of the Bearcat, but want to make sure landing it will require me to "fly it all the way to the pavement." My P-51 certainly isnt doing that. E-Flite and PZ planes are unrrealistically floaty. As for bearcat color, it isnt about visability as much as color variation. Id prefer it broken up a touch but I dont see any bearcat livery with a white belly or some such. As for the Spit, I dont want to bite off more than I can chew if it is, in fact, as hard to land as made out to be. Having not flown one outside of a SIM, I cant comment on them. SIM experience is not comparable. Again, I feel I land well. The P-38 has had some bounces but no real damage other than prop breaks. I want to gain more practice on a plane that lands more realistically compared to my E-flite/PZ planes. The bearcat sounds great, but I want to be sure it isnt too easy to land, if that makes sense. Spit looks and flies well, but again, the point is a smaller, less expensive aircraft to enjoy flying as well as practice landings on that isnt more than I can handle but still challenging me to hone my skills...not that a trike compares to a tail dragger, but that is another conversation.

[Beeg]

Just curious as to why some people have bought 2 of these?

First I wanted two different paint schemes and second one is modified with an upgraded power system. And third because I know it annoys some folks when people buy two copies of the same model. I also have two of the new Tigercats as well for the same reasons. :cool:

[TomC]

She's a sweetheart guys! And plenty of go even in stock configuration. As I've said before, I prefer a 4000 4s in her, it adds a bit more weight and for me, its the sweet spot, so far......
Everyone is different of course, but this plane is a must have....

Grossman56

Hello Sir, I have never coated my planes this Bearcat will be the first one.I do coat over the decals with this Varathane? I plan on using a 1' foam brush, and cleaning the plane with 100% rubbing alcohol first. Thanks,

[Grossman56]

I don't use rubbing alcohol on mine, simply because it might pull the paint off. A damp cloth works just as well. I applied the decals and then coated right over them to seal them on. I have done this with all my airplanes, whether I used a dull or gloss finish. Applied with a foam brush and spread evenly, all the time watching for any runs. Let her set up and repeat. You can use a hair dryer to dry it faster but just watch the heat on the foam. Don't burn it!
Its usually good to go within a half hour in normal room temp, so take your choice of how to proceed.
I use three coasts a a general rule. Its water based so your not really adding anything to it weight wise.

Grossman56

[TomC]

Thanks Grossman for the tips.I will leave off the Alcohol and just use a damp cloth..:D

[Grossman56]

Yep, I think you're better off. You'll love the difference in the look and the feel, just watch around push rods and hinges. Make sure they all work afterwards as it can tend it stick them up, just work them until you know for sure. Also, don't paint it over the clear spots like canopies or lights, you may be able to, I choose not to just in case,

Grossman56

[TomC]

Thanks again..You are a great bunch of people here on HobbySquawk, like NO other fourms I have been on..:D You would think at 48 I wouldn't be full of probably stupid questions.. but Hey, I am a newby at RC planes..1yr and counting..

[boomer108]

Welcome TomC, there is no such thing as a stupid question so fire away we are all glad to help each other here.

Roy B.

[TomC]

Welcome TomC, there is no such thing as a stupid question so fire away we are all glad to help each other here.

Roy B.

Thanks Sir,:)

[Pheonix]

Has any one used the 3600 Pro in the Bearcat? I am wondering if I should change to the 4000 as I have not maddened yet. On the other-hand, I have 6-3600 pro batteries.

[Beeg]

Has any one used the 3600 Pro in the Bearcat? I am wondering if I should change to the 4000 as I have not maddened yet. On the other-hand, I have 6-3600 pro batteries.

3600's work great. Just put them all the way forward.

[Grossman56]

Like Pheonix said, besides we're just trying to make sure that you don't do the same stupid things we did!!
One thing right of the bat, if you're new to this, DON'T use Loc-tite!!!
It'll melt the foam!!
Use foam-tac instead.

Grossman56

[flyingiceberg]

What is the best way to smooth out the foam after removing paint? I have some rough spots on my P51 that need to be smoothed out

[Grossman56]

That's a tough one, the only thing that I know of is to fill in any crevices with filler and sand, beware though, don't try and sand the foam, it doesn't like that. Best to PM someone like Warbird Charlie or Brandon Moon and get they're take on it.

Grossman56

[flyingiceberg]

Thanks. Is is just a small section under the rudder and elevator. Combination of Gorilla tape and acetone left a few strands and a slightly uneven surface. It's only about the rear 6 inches of the fuselage. Duck tape was not working. I had to strip the paint off the back section so I could turn this fuselage into the Marie

[Beeg]

What is the best way to smooth out the phone after removing paint? I have some rough spots on my P51 that need to be smoothed out

Rough spots as in the shell of the foam beads are busted through or just gaps between the cells from gatoring?
Hopefully the bead shells aren't busted. Real pain to fix. If the cells themselves are busted, I put a couple coats of Water based Poly Urethane (WBPU) then sand smooth with 320 or 400grit. May have to apply new coats of WBPU then sand again till desired smoothness is achieved. You're basically creating a new shell for the foam with the PU.
If just gaps from gatoring you can use just about any filler but "HobbyLite" by Hobbico is the easiest to sand. After sanding smooth apply a coat or two of WBPU to seal the filler.
This is the way I do it. Many other methods but this way works for me.

If you haven't already done so go visit Chris's (RCGEEK) website and read/watch his article on "How to refinish a foam warbird". You can take or leave what you like but it's all good information.
http://thercgeek.com/category/how-to...-foam-warbird/

[Grossman56]

Yeah thats a good thought, Chris does some great work on his P 51, thanks Beeg!

Grossman56

[Aspirin]

What is the best way to smooth out the foam after removing paint? I have some rough spots on my P51 that need to be smoothed out

What has worked real well for me dealing with the fuzz* left over from cleaning up part lines or other surface discontinuities, has been to harden the fuzzed area with a thin coat of thin CA glue. This adds rigidity to the fuzz so that the new sharp sandpaper can actually cut the fuzz. Repeat until the surface finish is close to what you want.
Then I apply a skim coat to the area using this product from MotionRC.
https://www.motionrc.com/collections...g-compound-8oz

Hints: Sand in only one direction! Back and forth is two directions!:rolleyes:

Allow the Beacon to dry fully! I like to wait two days before I sand it with new sharp 220 grit sand paper prior to adding the color coats.

* The fuzz is the foam bead’s skin it is tough and resistant to dull sandpaper. This is much the same technique one would use to sand down kevlar or other tough fibrous materials.

All the best,
Konrad