Flightline RC Tigercat F7F

[Grossman56]

A real easy flyer!
I went the 15/30 degrees for flaps. At 15 degrees, she didn't need any elevator mix and at 30 just a bit, she'll land without any flaps regardless, just comes in a little hotter.

Grossman56

[rifleman_btx]

Sounds good, I'm looking forward to getting this bird in the air!

[Grossman56]

Stock gear works fine! Nice to have the upgrades for rougher landing surfaces, but I never had any trouble with my stock gear, until I tried to remove it that is..........

Grossman56

[rifleman_btx]

Now just waiting on the batteries

[rifleman_btx]

Game on!

[rifleman_btx]

I'm gonna go with the stock gear for now, might get the upgrade if I feel I need to. But at the moment, I'm gonna give it a try on the stock wire

[OV10]

Socket head washers
yes Sir, it slides in this application.

https://hobbyking.com/en_us/sockethe...___store=en_us

THANX...........Never seen them before..............those are SWEET.............gotta get me some.:Cool:

[Ole-Timer]

I use them with these type fastners
Ive learned to stock all sizes n lengths

https://hobbyking.com/en_us/socket-head-cap-screw-m3x10mm-20pcs.html?___store=en_us

[Ole-Timer]

Socket head washers
yes Sir, it slides in this application.

https://hobbyking.com/en_us/sockethead-washer-anodised-aluminum-m3-silver-10pcs.html?___store=en_us

[OV10]

OT............What is that chrome cone shaped flange serving as a collar/washer on the head of the socket head screw used as slide stop on the strut you pictured??

[Ole-Timer]

OV is spot on.
If you’ve been buying, building, and flying long enough, you’ll find out it’s a matter of having the correct technique and tools!
I have small box’s of old spare landing gear I use to fabricate parts from rather than buying new. Grub screws are the worst, especially when red locktite has been applied. Indeed heat them up first.
Grub screws also only use a portion of the threads available in any hole so everywhere I can, I remove and replace them with internal wrench screws. They can be cut to fit and utilize the full length of threads available in a hole giving much better gripping ability plus they can be removed time and again easily. I do not care for Phillips head as those strip easily.

Just one example... I now stock chrome plated steel fasteners.

[rifleman_btx]

Yes I did pull the trigger on this tonight

[Gunner]

Warbird Charlie: Hmmm, that is some interesting info about the set screws being loctited at the factory. Explains not only why the 2 were so tight they stripped out but why the other 2 were so tight when they did come loose. Like Sherlock Holmes once said: " The obscure becomes obvious once it has been explained...." I suppose it isn't such a bad idea if you never plan to do the upgrade, or if it wasn't even an available item. What I thought would be my first and only nose gear involvement was when I had a sudden crosswind upon landing, and hit the nose gear first and busted the hard steel 5MM pin that the aluminum tube attaches to. Initially unable to find a replacement, CZ Cubflyer came to my rescue and mailed me 2 of the remaining 9 he had from a 10 pak he bought earlier for a fix. The pins ARE now available in the PARTS section of the F7F Tigercate location on the website.

"To go up, pull back on the stick. To go down, pull ALL THE WAY back on the stick......"

[OV10]

Hello Gunner......................your frustration is not an isolated case. ALOT of modelers are not aware of certain activities that occur with the assembly of these foam ARF's.
This issue with inexpensive (read CHEAP) inferior grade material fasteners that are Loctited into aluminum is certainly problematic and one of the most common issues found.
For those that are in the know due to having already faced the same crap you're going through always add heat to these set screws usually with the tip of a solder iron so as to soften/liquefy the Loctite prior to attempting to put a wrench on it.
This allows the release of the metal set screws lock on the mating aluminum threads so as not to strip/tear them out.
Like any good successful mechanic, a good set of tools, namely allen wrenches(SAE & Metric) in a modelers case is also part of the key to success of model assembly/maintenance.
Best regards, ;)

[Gunner]

How did you manage to drill the set screws out? I had no luck trying a drill, reverse drills, easy outs, just could NOT get a bite or clear out the set screw. Ended up removing the entire assembly and even no luck with my drill press. Had to put the damn tube in a vice and use a hack saw, hammer and chisel and tear the hell into the aluminum tube til it finally pealed away. Then get the long wire fed back thru the middle of the fuse so I could get it plugged back into the board. Everything back and works fine but what a major PITA to get it done just because 2 cheap Chinese set screws stripped right at the start. This is Tcat 2 and I don't think I want to buy the upgrade set for #1 after this round of crap.

[Grossman56]

Had the same with mine, had to drill the set screw out. PITA, but worth it once you have it changed over. Word of caution, again....
Don't trust that anything on the upgrades are tight. Check every grub screw and Foam-Tac the new ones when you install them.
I had a couple of hangar incidents that convinced me.


Grossman56

[Gunner]

Well this just sucks. I have finished the build on my Tcat #2 and today getting around to installing the landing gear upgrades. Right off the bat the lower set screw/grub screw strips and I can't seem to do anything about it. So I have to leave the stock nose gear in place and have just now finished with the Mains with no trouble. What a bunch of ka-ka... At least I imagine having the upgrades on the Mains is a good deal. And I don't feel like buying a brand new front retract and who knows where all that wire disappears to? Crap.......

[Gunner]

Thanks for the info on the glue AND especially those retract upgrades! I am currently in assembly of my 2nd Tcat from when they had them on sale, and I also ordered the retract upgrade, but have not yet opened the bag. Will be taking a very close look at the things you mentioned Grossman.

[Grossman56]

Same here Pat, the tube glue comes in handy sometimes but Foam-Tac is the go to glue unless you need a glue/filler, then Gorilla Glue is great!

Grossman56

[crxmanpat]

The little white unmarked tube of glue that is included in the bags of parts for the F7F Tigercat, and I assume other foamies, would that happen to be FOAM TAC glue by any chance?

No, that is not Foam Tac, but it is similar in that it is a contact cement. Contact cement has acetone in it, just a very little, to help melt the foam slightly to create a kind of foam "weld". But you have to be careful about how much you put on as too much will melt the foam in large chunks.

Here's the proper method for using any type of contact cement on foam:

1. Put a VERY thin layer of cement on both parts that you are joining together.
2. Press the parts together and pull apart a few times. This helps spread the glue around to places you may have missed during application, and to even it out.
3. Wait about 30 seconds, then press the parts together.

Some things to be mindful of. If the parts are slotted and not direct contact, the glue could grab before you get the slotted part all the way in. In this case it's best to only wait about 10 seconds before putting the parts back together. For direct fit parts, the glue grabs hard after waiting 30 seconds, so make sure everything is lined up properly the first time.

I have and use Foam Tac quite often, but I always save my white tubes of glue just in case I ever run low on Foam Tac.