You must Sign-in or Register to post messages in the Hobby Squawk community
Registration is FREE and only takes a few moments

Register now

Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

New Tankers come here!

Collapse
X
Collapse
First Prev Next Last
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • #41
    there should have been a flat washer and a lock washer butted up against the screw face.

    Comment


    • #42
      Two questions:

      1: It looks like the spring-loaded idlers wheels are held on by a torx screw. One of mine is loose, so the arm drops down too far. What size torx do I need to pick up to retighten it?

      2: Possibly, due to the aforementioned loose idler, one of the connecting pins for the track on that side broke. Is there a special trick to removing the pins to change out the track link?

      Comment


      • #43
        Originally posted by Hoomi View Post
        Two questions:

        1: It looks like the spring-loaded idlers wheels are held on by a torx screw. One of mine is loose, so the arm drops down too far. What size torx do I need to pick up to retighten it?

        2: Possibly, due to the aforementioned loose idler, one of the connecting pins for the track on that side broke. Is there a special trick to removing the pins to change out the track link?
        I think you are referring to the road wheels not Idler. The road wheels have springs the idler does not. The size of hex screw whole is 3mm.

        There is a special trick to removing the pin....be careful and tap it out with a 1mm punch until you can grab it with a pair of pliers and pull it the rest of the way out.

        Comment


        • #44
          My experience with Heng Long metal tracks is that the metal is EXTREMELY brittle and "crumbly". It is far too easy to break them when trying to remove and install track pins. I had bad experiences trying to replace links on my T-34. Several brand new links were destroyed by the ends crumbling away when pushing the pins in or out. I wish they would use a stronger alloy for the tracks.

          Comment


          • #45
            I would like to see Heng Long model a M42A1 twin 40mm anti aircraft tank

            Comment


            • #46
              Originally posted by Cascabel View Post
              My experience with Heng Long metal tracks is that the metal is EXTREMELY brittle and "crumbly". It is far too easy to break them when trying to remove and install track pins. I had bad experiences trying to replace links on my T-34. Several brand new links were destroyed by the ends crumbling away when pushing the pins in or out. I wish they would use a stronger alloy for the tracks.
              Been around Heng Long tanks for a while and use them harder then 99% of the folks out there. I would guess that you were a bit rough on the tracks while taking the pins out because I have never had this happen or heard of it happening to their metal tracks. The plastic one yes, but metal no.

              Now you can bend the pin if you hit it too hard, but then that happens even to the best aftermarket track pins. When dealing with track pins, firm but gentle is always best.

              Comment


              • #47
                I found an old drill bit that was the right size to use to drive out the old pin (and pieces of the broken pin). I was surprised by the amount of rust on the pins, particularly since I don't recall having run the tank through any puddles.

                As such, once I had the track back together, I found a couple of places where the links were stiff on the hinge pins, and not pivoting freely, due to the rust. I applied a little rubbing alcohol to the pivot points, and worked the links back and forth to loosen them up. I plan to pick up a plastic-safe oil with a needle-tip applicator, to lubricate the pivot points, and hopefully, help protect the metal pins from moisture. Any recommendations?

                I'll give the other track an inspection later this afternoon.

                Comment


                • #48
                  Originally posted by Hoomi View Post
                  I found an old drill bit that was the right size to use to drive out the old pin (and pieces of the broken pin). I was surprised by the amount of rust on the pins, particularly since I don't recall having run the tank through any puddles.

                  As such, once I had the track back together, I found a couple of places where the links were stiff on the hinge pins, and not pivoting freely, due to the rust. I applied a little rubbing alcohol to the pivot points, and worked the links back and forth to loosen them up. I plan to pick up a plastic-safe oil with a needle-tip applicator, to lubricate the pivot points, and hopefully, help protect the metal pins from moisture. Any recommendations?

                  I'll give the other track an inspection later this afternoon.
                  Don't do that! Oil and track do not mix well. The "rust" will not effect the performance of the tracks and with a few minutes of driving any stiffens will be gone. Oil will attract dirt and hold it, which is worst for the plastic tracks vs a little rust. Also the rust goes a long way toward holding the track pins in place and not letting them "walk out" which then causes plastic tracks to break easily.

                  Comment


                  • #49
                    As much trouble as the pins were to drive out, it's hard to imagine them just walking out, but I'll heed the voice of experience. No oil.

                    Comment


                    • #50
                      What is the best way to remove the pins from the MFU without pulling the wires out? They are in pretty tight.

                      Comment


                      • #51
                        Do you mean the plugs, or the actual pins? the plugs you can just grab with hemostats and lift.

                        Comment


                        • #52
                          Originally posted by Vaseline View Post
                          Do you mean the plugs, or the actual pins? the plugs you can just grab with hemostats and lift.
                          The plugs. Thanks for the tip.

                          Comment

                          Working...
                          X