HengLong Compatible IR Receiver (by LegoDEI) Installation Examples + Help

[LegoDEI]

SunShade listing is up! https://www.etsy.com/listing/8496024...de-ir-receiver

[William Fraden]

Thank You LegoDei for making the shades. Now I can battle anything . I even had a suggestion about the 45 and 360 shades. since we are trying to get tanking started around here. We could offer two different shades for the experienced tanks to battle with the 45 shade. The less experienced tankers with the 360. Just and idea for us to get started. My new shades should be here tommorow.

[SoCalBobS]

A note on installation, not of LegoDEI's product, but the tanks they go in to, specifically the main boards. I have three tanks, an Abrams, a T-72 and an M-41. I've plugged the same Rx (I only have the one now) into slot 3, the tail light circuit, disconnecting the tail lights. I should be able to turn the Rx lights on and off with the "G - Left Stick Down" input. This works on the Abrams correctly. However, on the other two, G/Down changes the joystick mode instead, switching motor control from side to side. I can still activate the Rx LED's by turning off the headlights, and it reacts correctly to IR shots, flashing and shaking the tank.

It's not a problem since in all cases the Rx behaves correctly and the tail lights are unplugged, just a puzzlement. Have others experienced this?

Also as a testimonial, add me as a believer. The Rx's work really well. I compared them and in the sun there is far greater receiver range. Don't know why I'd want to get hit from afar, but it works!

[Rubicon99]

A note on installation, not of LegoDEI's product, but the tanks they go in to, specifically the main boards. I have three tanks, an Abrams, a T-72 and an M-41. I've plugged the same Rx (I only have the one now) into slot 3, the tail light circuit, disconnecting the tail lights. I should be able to turn the Rx lights on and off with the "G - Left Stick Down" input. This works on the Abrams correctly. However, on the other two, G/Down changes the joystick mode instead, switching motor control from side to side. I can still activate the Rx LED's by turning off the headlights, and it reacts correctly to IR shots, flashing and shaking the tank.

It's not a problem since in all cases the Rx behaves correctly and the tail lights are unplugged, just a puzzlement. Have others experienced this?

Also as a testimonial, add me as a believer. The Rx's work really well. I compared them and in the sun there is far greater receiver range. Don't know why I'd want to get hit from afar, but it works!

The 6.0 MFUs have a few different programmings depending on the market they were intended for, this according to Toucan Hobbies. Some have features that are not typical of the broader US market but are shipped anyway if an order of “one spec” is short and needs to be filled. I have some that function like the one you mention and some that have only two sounds and no high / low power options. HL needs to just standardize and make all the tank 6.1S or whatever?

Glad you worked thought the issue. Using the headlights is just as good an option as using the taillights. I have one set up this way because it just not smart to run the headlight in IR battles.....”kinda here I am hiding over behind this bush shoot me first”.

[SoCalBobS]

Glad it wasn’t my imagination or ignorance!

[SoCalBobS]

I now have two receivers mounted on my tanks. What an improvement! I tested reception at 45 feet separation, one in sun, one in shade. Both worked flawlessly. The stock receivers worked intermittently at 6 feet in the same light.

I made my own mounts from PVC pipe, card stock and rare earth magnets. Although LegoDEI provides cabling with Dupont connectors to hook up both the sensor and the lights to the main board, I chose to solder wires directly to the unit, and used three-line and two-line JST-PH connectors to make it easier to take them on and off.



Both are the new versions where the LED's are mounted horizontally so the lights are more visible from a remote operator's position. I got one red and one blue for comparison. The following pictures were taken in indirect outdoor light. The headlights are on so you can assess the brightness. Later I may take more pictures in noon day sun at a distance. I'm guessing the red may be more visible, but we'll see.

Red on the T-72:


Blue on the M-41


I made the mounts so as to put the sensors at the same height as the stock units.

[quitcherbitchen]

From a Non tanker(but might join you guys one day) (Hi Karl) what is the range on one of these systems? I want to try making a warbird ground strafer system.

[Rubicon99]

From a Non tanker(but might join you guys one day) (Hi Karl) what is the range on one of these systems? I want to try making a warbird ground strafer system.

Depends a lot on the brightness of the sunlight and bulb placement so anywhere from 45 to 150ft. At night the range can be shockingly far and we have had hits out past 100 yards. The issue come then with being able to see and then aim at your target.

[quitcherbitchen]

hmm, that might just work. Hooking up to an air cannon which I made to simulate explosions would pretty much indicate a hit. Here is a 45 second clip of what I am talking about. I have to activate the explosion from my radio which makes for good movies, but no skill. I only need 50 ft I think. You could probably do the same for your tank battles. Like Kung Fu Panda said "Authentic Battle DAMAGE!!!!"

[SoCalBobS]

Here are some examples of the LED's in various light environments.

Bright midday sunshine:


Evening, from about 30' away. Compare the lights with the one headlight:


Same time, facing away to eliminate the white light:

Regardless of any actual lumens on the LED's, it's what your eye perceives and interprets that is relevant. I've left the LED's on constant, in reality they'll flash which would catch your eye.

[karltrek]

I cannot see the LEDs in bright sunlight. But the that is a minor thing compared to the fact that the IR units actually work in bright sunlight! Very happy about that! 😃

[Hellcat 7]

So is it safe to say that these IRs is the solution to join battles with Tanks by Tamiya?

[Rubicon99]

So is it safe to say that these IRs is the solution to join battles with Tanks by Tamiya?

Yes and No.

They solve the compatibility issues with taking hits reliably at equal or even greater distances, but they do not solve the issues of how the hits effect the tank like the Tamiyas do aka “battle damage” or weight class “rate of fire”. This is a function of the MFU not the IR receiver.

But the remaining issues can be overcome with rules or restrain placed on the operator. Like using only low power and counting seconds between shots: 3 seconds for light tank, 5 seconds for medium and 9 second for heavy tanks.

If one follows these simple steps the HL 6.0 tanks with the LegoDEI receivers can play well with Tamiya tanks.

Note: there are a few other small adjustments that should be made to the IR bulb placement but these are not as important and are more nice to have then need to have.

[Hellcat 7]

Yes and No.

They solve the compatibility issues with taking hits reliably at equal or even greater distances, but they do not solve the issues of how the hits effect the tank like the Tamiyas do aka “battle damage” or weight class “rate of fire”. This is a function of the MFU not the IR receiver.

But the remaining issues can be overcome with rules or restrain placed on the operator. Like using only low power and counting seconds between shots: 3 seconds for light tank, 5 seconds for medium and 9 second for heavy tanks.

If one follows these simple steps the HL 6.0 tanks with the LegoDEI receivers can play well with Tamiya tanks.

Note: there are a few other small adjustments that should be made to the IR bulb placement but these are not as important and are more nice to have then need to have.

Thanks for the info.

[karltrek]

From a Non tanker(but might join you guys one day) (Hi Karl) what is the range on one of these systems? I want to try making a warbird ground strafer system.

Hi quitcherbitchen! The IR range is very short. My guesstimate is about 20 feet at best.

[SoCalBobS]

Speaking of "airborne", this would allow close ground support! It would need IR emitters, but NO receivers! I wouldn't want to fall out of the sky!


Blade 230S heli with a Microheli fuselage.

[quitcherbitchen]

wonder if I could boost the range somehow. Double up on the bulbs?

[Pynaegan]

Speaking of "airborne", this would allow close ground support! It would need IR emitters, but NO receivers! I wouldn't want to fall out of the sky!

Well, you COULD rig the receiver to disable the weapons taking the helli out of the game... 😏

That's the "good" thing about tanks, it's harder to fall off the ground!😆

Edit:

I'd recommend a half-track zipping around with IR emitters mounted on a turret where the quad 50's should be!
(It's only fair to have some ADA out there!)

[quitcherbitchen]

I Just ordered a new apple IR receiver from Haojie and noticed the one in my Panzer which uses a Clark board is made for Heng Long and the one I just got is supposed to be for Clark but has no wire diagram listed on it Any pointers? Same set up as the Heng Long which seems to work with the Clark board on the Panzer

[BcuriousR]

I Just ordered a new apple IR receiver from Haojie and noticed the one in my Panzer which uses a Clark board is made for Heng Long and the one I just got is supposed to be for Clark but has no wire diagram listed on it Any pointers? Same set up as the Heng Long which seems to work with the Clark board on the Panzer