My HL Abrams build thread

[Rubicon99]

Thanks for clarifying, I turned on the remote, tank and then pressed the lock button for it to function.

Is it possible to swap the controls so that the left joystick controls the tanks movement instead of the turret? It seems more intuitive (for me at least) to control it with my left hand/joystick. I recall reading about it somewhere but can't find the thread.

There are two settings, HL and Tamiya. The Tamiya one uses the left stick. To activate it you need to press and hold the “G” button down and at the same time move the left stick down.

[canklebreaker]

There are two settings, HL and Tamiya. The Tamiya one uses the left stick. To activate it you need to press and hold the “G” button down and at the same time move the left stick down.

Interesting, trying the Tamiya configuration, the left stick moves the tank forward and back and the turret left and right whereas the right stick controls the turning of the tank and cannon elevation. I thought it would've swapped all controls.

[SoCalBobS]

Occasionally the lights take a bit longer to go from flashing to solid on when you push the start button - only a second or two, but if you push the button again during that interval, you may be turning the tank off! I discovered this while working on tank bodies that didn't have a speaker or lights hooked up. So, press/release/wait (pray?).

[canklebreaker]

I received the remainder of the metal upgrade components and wanted to share what I've learned during my installation. So far, I only managed to install the metal road wheels and metal sprockets.

Tips:
1. Use quality tools, such as a hex bit screwdriver instead of the hex key the kit comes with or you may risk stripping the screws
2. In regards to the road wheels, be mindful that the pin that slots into the groove on the tank body is on the upper half of the suspension arm for road wheels that go on the left side of the tank and is on the bottom half of the suspension arm for road wheels that go on the right side of the tank. I realized there was a difference after installing 2 road wheels on the wrong side.


Questions that have come up during my installation:
1. Did I receive the wrong idler bar? The one provided seems way too long


2. In regards to the long and short guide wheels on the top of the tracks, the metal version I received can be disassembled as seen, however I can only remove the plastic wheel on the tank since the rest is molded into the lower hull, meaning I can only swap out the wheel?


3. In regards to the idler wheels, am I supposed to use the extra bearings and washers to shim the wheel so it doesn't wobble? I've only inserted one bearing inside the center hole. I also realized that the caps do not fit and can't be inserted to cover up the screw but I guess it doesn't really matter since the idler wheels are mostly covered by the hull.


4. Lastly, is the drive shaft bearing assembly supposed to be flush once inserted in the flange? I followed another members advice on only purchasing the bearing instead of the kit with the flange and it doesn't seem to sit flush, however when I installed the sprocket, the center guide looked aligned with the road wheels.


I hope these weren't silly questions since I wasn't sure if people chopped up their tanks to make things fit or if it was more of a plug and play type of approach

[Rubicon99]

I received the rest of my metal upgrade components and wanted to share what I've learned during my installation. So far, I only managed to install the metal road wheels and metal sprockets.

Tips:
1. Use quality tools, such as a hex bit screwdriver instead of the hex key the kit comes with or you may risk stripping the screws
2. In regards to the road wheels, be mindful that the pin that slots into the groove on the tank body is on the upper half of the suspension arm for road wheels that go on the left side of the tank and is on the bottom of the suspension arm for road wheels that go on the right side of the tank. I realized there was a difference after installing 2 road wheels on the wrong side.


Questions that have come up during my installation:
1. Did I receive the wrong idler bar? The one provided seems way too long


2. In regards to the long and short guide wheels on the top of the tracks, the metal version I received can be disassembled as seen, however I can only remove the plastic wheel on the tank since the rest is molded into the lower hull, meaning I can only swap out the wheel?


3. In regards to the idler wheels, am I supposed to use the extra bearings and washers to shim the wheel so it doesn't wobble? I've only inserted one bearing inside the center hole. I also realized that the caps do not fit and can't be inserted to cover up the screw but I guess it doesn't really matter since the idler wheels are mostly covered by the hull.


4. Lastly, is the drive shaft bearing assembly supposed to be flush once inserted in the flange? I followed another members advice on only purchasing the bearing instead of the kit with the flange and it doesn't seem to sit flush, however when I installed the sprocket, the center guide looked aligned with the road wheels.


I hope these weren't silly questions since I wasn't sure if people chopped up their tanks to make things fit or if it was more of a plug and play type of approach

#1 Yes that appears to be the wrong idler support bar. It looks just like the one for the old 5.3 Abrams which did not have the new adjustable idler.

#4 The bearings should be flush. When flush there is also a small gap between the bearing face and rear section of the sprocket hub (once the sprockets are installed).This gap does cause the bearing to slowly work its way “slip” out. A solution to the bearing slippage is to add a nylon “spacer” (washer) or two to close the gap and hold the bearings in place. This is actually a very common issue with many HL tanks and the solution works perfectly to solve the issue with no degradation in performance. In fact it tends to add even greater axle support.

[canklebreaker]

Hmm I may have to purchase the bearing kit that has the flange to compare it to the individual bearings I used to see if there is a difference. I purchased the correct size so I'm not sure why it's not fitting properly.

[Hellcat 7]

Hello, thinking of cutting out the battery compartment and making it a flat surface. Your thoughts??

[Rubicon99]

Hello, thinking of cutting out the battery compartment and making it a flat surface. Your thoughts??

I have done this all my Abrams. It can sometimes cause structural flexing issues IF you are running all metal suspension, wheels and rubber padded/metal tracks. The flexing can cause de-tracking issues if you let the tracks get to slacked so keeping them properly adjusted will be a must.

You can also add some internal “bracings” to add rigidity back into the hull. I had to to this on a few of my Abrams with the battery box removed.

[Hellcat 7]

I have done this all my Abrams. It can sometimes cause structural flexing issues IF you are running all metal suspension, wheels and rubber padded/metal tracks. The flexing can cause de-tracking issues if you let the tracks get to slacked so keeping them properly adjusted will be a must.

You can also add some internal “bracings” to add rigidity back into the hull. I had to to this on a few of my Abrams with the battery box removed.

Thanks for the advice and info.

[ArmorBolt]

Hi Rubicon, regarding issue #4 .. During tank day last week, I remembered you showed me this "track slip out" problem with the sprocket on my Abrams tank, and told me the solution.. Could you clarify the solution again, or snap pictures of the solution of how the nylon spacer washer is fitted to your Abram sprocket to show the solution.. For me, it is easier to see a solution pictures... Thanks.

#4 The bearings should be flush. When flush there is also a small gap between the bearing face and rear section of the sprocket hub (once the sprockets are installed).This gap does cause the bearing to slowly work its way “slip” out. A solution to the bearing slippage is to add a nylon “spacer” (washer) or two to close the gap and hold the bearings in place. This is actually a very common issue with many HL tanks and the solution works perfectly to solve the issue with no degradation in performance. In fact it tends to add even greater axle support.

[Rubicon99]

Hi Rubicon, regarding issue #4 .. During tank day last week, I remembered you showed me this "track slip out" problem with the sprocket on my Abrams tank, and told me the solution.. Could you clarify the solution again, or snap pictures of the solution of how the nylon spacer washer is fitted to your Abram sprocket to show the solution.. For me, it is easier to see a solution pictures... Thanks.

#4 The bearings should be flush. When flush there is also a small gap between the bearing face and rear section of the sprocket hub (once the sprockets are installed).This gap does cause the bearing to slowly work its way “slip” out. A solution to the bearing slippage is to add a nylon “spacer” (washer) or two to close the gap and hold the bearings in place. This is actually a very common issue with many HL tanks and the solution works perfectly to solve the issue with no degradation in performance. In fact it tends to add even greater axle support.

PM me. I can answer your questions there and not cause this thread to get “muddy”.

[canklebreaker]

#4 The bearings should be flush. When flush there is also a small gap between the bearing face and rear section of the sprocket hub (once the sprockets are installed).This gap does cause the bearing to slowly work its way “slip” out. A solution to the bearing slippage is to add a nylon “spacer” (washer) or two to close the gap and hold the bearings in place. This is actually a very common issue with many HL tanks and the solution works perfectly to solve the issue with no degradation in performance. In fact it tends to add even greater axle support.

Should I apply force to try to get it flush, I'm a little concerned of damaging/breaking it.

[HardRock]

HL M1A2 Abrams (6.0s)

Need some help determing which are the correct parts to order.
Abrams's model number is listed as 3918.

However, one listing for a part will list this model number while another listing for the same part doesn't list this model number
Is making sure the listing shows this model number the best way to ensure I get the right part?

Henglong 1/16 RC Tank Ultimate II HL59mm Gearbox 3838/3839/3878/3889/3908/3918

[Rubicon99]

HL M1A2 Abrams (6.0s)

Need some help determing which are the correct parts to order.
Abrams's model number is listed as 3918.

However, one listing for a part will list this model number while another listing for the same part doesn't list this model number
Is making sure the listing shows this model number the best way to ensure I get the right part?

Henglong 1/16 RC Tank Ultimate II HL59mm Gearbox 3838/3839/3878/3889/3908/3918

HL Abrams use the “High / Low” gearbox arrangement with 59mm shafts also often referred to as “long shafts”. A number of other HL tanks also use this set up and it can cause confusion with all the different numbers being listed.

You can use the part number or make sure the gearbox you are ordering matches the description above.

[HardRock]

Thanks. Your advice is always direct, informative and to the point! I have ordered the part. Again, thank you.

[Zippersnapper]

HL Abrams use the “High / Low” gearbox arrangement with 59mm shafts also often referred to as “long shafts”. A number of other HL tanks also use this set up and it can cause confusion with all the different numbers being listed.

You can use the part number or make sure the gearbox you are ordering matches the description above.

Taigen Tanks has a sale running on parts. I'm looking at the V3 Motor/Gearbox. Would you happen to know if Taigen stuff interchanges with Henglong?

[Rubicon99]

Taigen Tanks has a sale running on parts. I'm looking at the V3 Motor/Gearbox. Would you happen to know if Taigen stuff interchanges with Henglong?

Most of the Taigen parts are interchangeable. The Taigen V1 and V2 are 100% drop in so logically it should follow that you would not have a problem with the V3? But it is rather new with very little information or reviews on it.

The V3 fits in a gap that was needed prior to some of the newer MFU with excellent speed control came out. Honestly for “heavy” WW2 tanks the 4:1 gearbox is still a “better option”. The “better option” opinion is according to Taigen’s long time tank rep. So if you are going to use it in a King Tiger, KV or JS2 then 4:1 should also be considered.

Hope this helps.

[Zippersnapper]

Most of the Taigen parts are interchangeable. The Taigen V1 and V2 are 100% drop in so logically it should follow that you would not have a problem with the V3? But it is rather new with very little information or reviews on it.

The V3 fits in a gap that was needed prior to some of the newer MFU with excellent speed control came out. Honestly for “heavy” WW2 tanks the 4:1 gearbox is still a “better option”. The “better option” opinion is according to Taigen’s long time tank rep. So if you are going to use it in a King Tiger, KV or JS2 then 4:1 should also be considered.

Hope this helps.

Thank you sir. I did want a 4:1, for the Walker...You know me, speed is not a concern but rather slow crawl/climb. Do you have any expertise in the Henglong Walker Bulldog? I have coming in the mail, all new metal shocks. All my running gear: tracks, road wheels, drive sprocket, idler, etc are all metal except for the shocks. The plastic shocks seem to be held in by an upper plastic pin? Nothing protrudes into the inner hull, so I'm not sure what's up. Logic suggests-what goes together on an assembly line, must come apart, right? I just don't want to break anything during the removal process.......Thanx as always my friend..Enjoy your weekend sir.

[Rubicon99]

Thank you sir. I did want a 4:1, for the Walker...You know me, speed is not a concern but rather slow crawl/climb. Do you have any expertise in the Henglong Walker Bulldog? I have coming in the mail, all new metal shocks. All my running gear: tracks, road wheels, drive sprocket, idler, etc are all metal except for the shocks. The plastic shocks seem to be held in by an upper plastic pin? Nothing protrudes into the inner hull, so I'm not sure what's up. Logic suggests-what goes together on an assembly line, must come apart, right? I just don't want to break anything during the removal process.......Thanx as always my friend..Enjoy your weekend sir.

Are you kidding....LoL. Me have any Walker Bulldog experience????

The Bulldog is one of my favorite tanks and I have done quite a bit of work with them from era based to highly modernized version. Some of these are in this forums “photo gallery” (early posts)

The “plastic” shocks will need to be replaced with the upgraded metal ones(do to the weight of your tank with metal parts) or your tank will sag in the rear and “bottom out” the suspension in moderate to rough terrain. This is easy, BUT you have to remove the pin that holds them on. That can be either easy or hard it all depends on the individual tank.

I would not use the 4:1 in the Bulldog as it offers NO advantages with the 6.0 -7.0 systems. You would be better served using those funds for 390 motors.

The largest issue with the Bulldog are the current tracks HL/Taigen/Mato make for it regardless or metal or plastic. The metal track are strong, but have NO traction and tend to have de-tracking issues in soft soil or grass when making moderate to tight turns

To get the Bulldog to being SUPER reliable, DURABLE and CAPABLE you will need to change the track type and sprockets. To see examples of this take a look at my Instagram @ fsttanks. Look at the older posts to see two of my Bulldogs in action and being abused. The majority of what you see would not be possible with stock metal tracks.

If you want to know more about sprockets and tracks for the Bulldog, PM me.

Also start a build thread for you Bulldog so others can see what you are doing and any information presented can be better past on to other looking to build a Bulldog.

[Zippersnapper]

Are you kidding....LoL. Me have any Walker Bulldog experience????

The Bulldog is one of my favorite tanks and I have done quite a bit of work with them from era based to highly modernized version. Some of these are in this forums “photo gallery” (early posts)

The “plastic” shocks will need to be replaced with the upgraded metal ones(do to the weight of your tank with metal parts) or your tank will sag in the rear and “bottom out” the suspension in moderate to rough terrain. This is easy, BUT you have to remove the pin that holds them on. That can be either easy or hard it all depends on the individual tank.

I would not use the 4:1 in the Bulldog as it offers NO advantages with the 6.0 -7.0 systems. You would be better served using those funds for 390 motors.

The largest issue with the Bulldog are the current tracks HL/Taigen/Mato make for it regardless or metal or plastic. The metal track are strong, but have NO traction and tend to have de-tracking issues in soft soil or grass when making moderate to tight turns

To get the Bulldog to being SUPER reliable, DURABLE and CAPABLE you will need to change the track type and sprockets. To see examples of this take a look at my Instagram @ fsttanks. Look at the older posts to see two of my Bulldogs in action and being abused. The majority of what you see would not be possible with stock metal tracks.

If you want to know more about sprockets and tracks for the Bulldog, PM me.

Also start a build thread for you Bulldog so others can see what you are doing and any information presented can be better past on to other looking to build a Bulldog.

Thank you sir. I found out early on I might add, about the lack of traction -this tank can't climb a 3" curb, while my other 2 tanks breeze right over it. Luckily, I havn't de-tracked it....yet.

I was able to look at a few Pics of your gem's on Instagram, but I don't have an account so my viewing was short lived. Your collection is awesome, I might add. PM incoming