DKLMRC tracks for the Challenger 2

[oldwolf]

Has anyone had experience with the DKLMRC tracks for the Challenger 2?

https://www.dklmrc.com/116_Metal_track_for_M1A2___Challenger_2_with_molded_rubber_pad/p2389473_14704829.aspx

I am looking for track with actual rubber pads that are securely fastened on.

[Rubicon99]

Has anyone had experience with the DKLMRC tracks for the Challenger 2?

https://www.dklmrc.com/116_Metal_tra..._14704829.aspx

I am looking for track with actual rubber pads that are securely fastened on.

Yes the DKLM tracks are excellent. But I suggest to also take a look at a set of Tamiya Leopard 2 tracks for the Challenger 2. They are much lighter yet just as strong. Cost is about the same.

With either track bands you will need to use the sprocket spacer to widen the Challenger sprockets to fit the tracks. Or you can use an Abrams sprocket on the Challenger. The Abrams sprocket will run both the Leopard and Abrams track without issue.

[oldwolf]

Yes the DKLM tracks are excellent. But I suggest to also take a look at a set of Tamiya Leopard 2 tracks for the Challenger 2. They are much lighter yet just as strong. Cost is about the same.

With either track bands you will need to use the sprocket spacer to widen the Challenger sprockets to fit the tracks. Or you can use an Abrams sprocket on the Challenger. The Abrams sprocket will run both the Leopard and Abrams track without issue.

Thanks, where can I find a sprocket spacer?

[Rubicon99]

Thanks, where can I find a sprocket spacer?

DKLM sells them with the tracks. You just have to let them know you are going to us the track on a Challenger and to make sure to include it.

All it really consist of is a thin rubber O-ring that is sandwiched between the two sprocket halves. They can be found at almost any auto parts or home improvement store.

[sclui56]

DKLM sells them with the tracks. You just have to let them know you are going to us the track on a Challenger and to make sure to include it.

All it really consist of is a thin rubber O-ring that is sandwiched between the two sprocket halves. They can be found at almost any auto parts or home improvement store.

Sorry to jump in, I was looking at the DKLM tracks for a Taigen Leo, do those rubber pads stay secured, or simply come off in time? TIA.

[Rubicon99]

Sorry to jump in, I was looking at the DKLM tracks for a Taigen Leo, do those rubber pads stay secured, or simply come off in time? TIA.

The DKLM pads stay on very well. In fact of the four set I have been using and abusing for over four year, only one pad has ever been ripped off. I have worn two sets of tracks (pads) down to the metal, but only the one pad has ever completely failed.

The Tamiya Abrams and Leopard 2 tracks with rubber pads last longer and I have been slowly replacing my DKLM tracks with them. The rubber used is a little harder and more wear resistant. The Tamiya tracks have yet to loose a pad in more then a year of hard outdoor use. The only draw back to the Tamiya tracks is they cost a bit more.

If you take a look at my Instagram @ fsttanks you will see both DKLM and Tamiya tracks in use on my Abrams, Leopard 2, Challenger 2, M26 Pershing and M41 Bulldog tanks.

[sclui56]

Thanks for the confirm on the DKLM tracks. The Tamiya parts are getting hard to come by so I guess I will go with the DKLM for now.

[sclui56]

Rubicon, before I purchase the Tamiya tracks, one last question - since the Taigen Leo is quite a bit heavier than the Tamiya version, would you feel the non-metal tracks can hold up well considering the weight of the Taigen? TIA.

[Rubicon99]

Rubicon, before I purchase the Tamiya tracks, one last question - since the Taigen Leo is quite a bit heavier than the Tamiya version, would you feel the non-metal tracks can hold up well considering the weight of the Taigen? TIA.

I run the Tamiya tracks on tanks just as heavy and with far more power to the tracks then the stock Taigen Leopard 2. Also many people run the aftermarket thick metal Tamiya Leopard 2 lower hulls which are just as heavy with no issues.

The Tamiya Leopard 2 and Abrams tracks use all steel pins and connector links. The track pad body is a high strength nylon and the pads are a hard rubber compound.

I would have no hesitation using the Tamiya Leopard 2 tracks if it was my tank.

[sclui56]

Rubicon,

Thanks a lot for the confirmation! Really appreciate it.

[oldwolf]

The tracks arrived today. Very nice quality. They seem a little lighter in weight than the all metal HL tracks, which of course makes sense; rubber pads replacing metal castings of rubber pads.

After slathering rust brown paint into their nooks and crannies and letting them dry, it was time to put them on. Following the principle of "If it aint broke, don't fix it" I did a quick test fitting before pulling the drive sprockets apart to install the o-ring spacers. To my surprise they were a perfect fit. Installation was utterly simple and indoor testing has shown no problems. Spinning in place on carpet, back and forth over scattered 2X4 blocks at all angles, etc. all went well. Tomorrow, some outdoor testing but all good so far.

[oldwolf]

Outdoor testing went well. The rubber track blocks seem to give better traction. No thrown tracks, no jammed running gear. So it seems at least some of the HL Challenger twos come right out of the box with drive sprockets that fit the DKLMRC tracks with no modification needed.

[keilau]

I run the Tamiya tracks on tanks just as heavy and with far more power to the tracks then the stock Taigen Leopard 2. Also many people run the aftermarket thick metal Tamiya Leopard 2 lower hulls which are just as heavy with no issues.

The Tamiya Leopard 2 and Abrams tracks use all steel pins and connector links. The track pad body is a high strength nylon and the pads are a hard rubber compound.

I would have no hesitation using the Tamiya Leopard 2 tracks if it was my tank.

I went to the Tamiya Shop and look at Leopard 2A6 upgrade parts. They want $400+ for the track. Is that what you recommend?

[Rubicon99]

I went to the Tamiya Shop and look at Leopard 2A6 upgrade parts. They want $400+ for the track. Is that what you recommend?

No not there they that is the crazy price no one buys track direct from Tamiya. Go to AAFtankmuseum.com store, search under 1/16 Tamiya tank parts, Tamiya Leopard 2.

[keilau]

No not there they that is the crazy price no one buys track direct from Tamiya. Go to AAFtankmuseum.com store, search under 1/16 Tamiya tank parts, Tamiya Leopard 2.

Thanks! The Tamiya metal track total cost is less than the DKLMRC track. AAF Meseum use UPS for shipping and DKLMRC USPS. Neither allow any choice of shipping method. USPS shipping is 2.5 times more expensive.

[Rubicon99]

Thanks! The Tamiya metal track total cost is less than the DKLMRC track. AAF Meseum use UPS for shipping and DKLMRC USPS. Neither allow any choice of shipping method. USPS shipping is 2.5 times more expensive.

Tamiya tracks are not 100% metal. They are a combination of nylon pads with rubber track pads. All the connecting hardware is metal.

[keilau]

Tamiya tracks are not 100% metal. They are a combination of nylon pads with rubber track pads. All the connecting hardware is metal.

It sounds a 1000 times better than the HL single pin metal track. The HL track looks awful, but works ok as a RC model tank track.

[keilau]

Tamiya tracks are not 100% metal. They are a combination of nylon pads with rubber track pads. All the connecting hardware is metal.

One more question. Which is the best sprockets to be used with the Tamiya tracks for the Leopard 2A6?

[sclui56]

Now I am torn between the DKLMRC and the Tamiya, besides deciding for the Taigen Leo 2, I also have the HL Abrams coming (with HL metal tracks), maybe I should get DKLMRC for the Leo and Tamiya for the Abrams.

[Rubicon99]

One more question. Which is the best sprockets to be used with the Tamiya tracks for the Leopard 2A6?

The HL metal sprockets with center track guide retaining rings.

Depending on where you intend to run the tank you might want to run only the out ring on each sprocket. This is usually a mod that works best if you routinely run in soft soil terrain. Why? Because the track will carry soil up and around the sprocket which as it falls free lands between the two rings and is packed in place by the guide teeth. This causes there to be less room for the guide teeth and they will “ride up and out” from between the two rings and cause a de-track. Removing the inner ring allows the soil to continue to fall free and the packing issue is solved, yet track retention remains. Occasionally on some hard turns the track will slip slightly off the sprocket toward the inner hull and rub, but then “re-track” itself. This is the lessor of to evils.

If you do this mod you will need to adhere the outer ring to the outer sprocket. Most of us use a small amount of black RVT silicone to adhere the outer ring in place. RVT is more then strong enough to hold, yet is completely reversible and relatively easy to remove should you want to.

If you do not plan to drive in soft soil often then leave the sprocket ring setup with the two rings installed on each.

Below is an example of how the modification to the sprockets should look. The photo is of a T72/T90 sprocket. (The wholes in the ring are a modeling detail. They are not functionally needed)