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Russian T-35A
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Progress: Tertiary turret rotation and mg flash added to main gun flash and recoil, headlights. The mg turret animation is achieved with an "RC Geek Random Servo Motion Generator" (RCMG). Travel, frequency and speed can all be adjusted via potentiometers on the RCMG. Each board has two takeoffs which act independently. The secondary turret will be powered from this module. Two modules will be used, one for the front turrets, one for the rear ones. Power is obtained from the HL 6.1S board from the servo recoil circuit via a Y cable.
Twenty six tanks, and not done yet!
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Exhausting...I installed a smoke unit I took from a 6.0 tank I use for battling - no need for smoke in that one! The T-35 has one exhaust pipe sticking out from the rear deck. I drilled a hole, put in a brass pipe, plugged one of the two tubes from the smoker, connected the other tube to the brass pipe,and away she goes! I use "Mega Smoke", made for model railroads, and I canted the smoke box so that the fluid runs down to the heater reliably.
Twenty six tanks, and not done yet!
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Another step, this one tough.
The HL board effects turret rotation with a motor & gearbox unit. This couldn't be incorporated into the T-35, for space and alignment concerns. The designer set it up for servo activation, but had not supplied any instructions how to do so.
I took a low-profile servo, opened it up, removed the pc board, rewired the motor for DC operation as required by the HL board. I cut off the pin in the gear train that normally limits the travel. This gave me a continuous rotation motor & reduction gear that fit in the spot the designer provided. After two hours of cutting, grinding and sanding, the servo fit in the spot. Of course, after installing it I'd soldered the wires reversed so the turret ran backward. Remove the servo, swap the external wires and all is good.
So far so good. (My mantra)Twenty six tanks, and not done yet!
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That thing is so cool and quite a project. Very impressive Work.RC tank parts and accessories I make
www.RichardSJohnson.net/id28.html
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No, but it's very easy. You just have to be careful to not let the gears and whatever fall on the floor....!
Unscrew the case. Some servo cases are in three parts, top middle and bottom, some two, top & bottom. Take off the bottom part, you'll see a pc board and the motor, with two wires connecting them. Cut the wires. Yank out the pc board, you won't be needing it. Solder the two wires you are going to use to power the motor onto the exposed motor terminals.
Now look at the top end. Take off the cap or otherwise to get to the gear area. Servos have a gear reduction train, multiple gears going from the motor to the servo head where the servo arms go. One of those gears, different in each servo, will have a pin or boss that limits the servo travel by hitting a stop, whereupon the pc board stops the power. If you remove that protrusion, there'll be nothing to stop the motor from spinning. Put the servo back together, and you're good.
It's easier to do this on standard size servos of course, for our eyes and fingers sake, but it's the same for micros. I practiced on some old $2 micro servos first.
Servos run on the 5 or 6 volt power that a receiver supplies. In my case, the HL boards do the same.
Twenty six tanks, and not done yet!
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Vaseline: Hahaha, I absolutely agree with you!. The only HL tank I never had was the Tiger 1 (although I do have a Tiger 2). Once this is done I'll be looking for the STL files for a T-26A - a mini tank with two separate mg turrets.
Yes, most of the visible T-35 parts are done in resin. The hull however, buried underneath, is filament, not sure which.
So, another progress step. The side skirts are a critical part of the appearance, but they cover up a lot of the running gear. I want to be able to access the gear for repair, maintenance, etc. so I didn't want to glue them on. My solution is carpet tape - very strong, very thin, and one roll will last a lifetime. here they are stuck on:
Just waiting on the fenders that go over the tracks on top.
Twenty six tanks, and not done yet!
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Have you thought about using magnets to hold the side skirts on?RC tank parts and accessories I make
www.RichardSJohnson.net/id28.html
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