ACE.... Good idea! I will put a layer of dullcote over those areas after weathering it. Thanks!
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First Tank Inbound- Torro Sherman (76mm)
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Spray flat over the black or just get some OD and repaint the whole thing. Only one unit, I think 3d armored, used the black stripe on the 319 OD.
best color match is MCW 319 olive Drab. Tamiya changed their color formula this year and added brown to it.RC tank parts and accessories I make
www.RichardSJohnson.net/id28.html
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This is great, thanks! Definitely going to give it a go. I’m still waiting on the tank to arrive but I’m trying to get my TX set up as much as I can in the meantime. The AT9S Pro has modes for “Acrobasic” and “Car type”. I’ve read that acro/Acrobasic is usually the best for tanks since there’s little to no mixing. “Car type” is certainly closer to a tank but not sure if it’ll keep all the channels active that I’ll need for the tankOriginally posted by sclui56 View PostACE, take a look at this post, he essentially wrote the step-by-step programming with clear explanation at that http://rctanksaustralia.com/forum1/v....php?f=32&t=57
When you reach that stage, be mindful to setup a fail safe cause your tank will not stop on the dime depending on the mix, so you need an abrupt means to stop movement, if necessary.
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Since Motion charges $10.99 + shipping for the unpainted upper with lighting & turret motor, I just grabbed one and paint it. Whatever OD I'll get will be slightly different than Taigen's (already went thru a few brands/codes from my friend, still no cigar). The Taigen's 76 seems quite a bit darker & lacks brown.
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Proper OD 319 which was used from 1944 onward did not have any brown in it. Mig and other brands have some close OD colors but you don’t want one with any brown in it if you want to be accurate.RC tank parts and accessories I make
www.RichardSJohnson.net/id28.html
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Thanks Rich, yes, OD 319, which is what I will use for the replacement hull. Still looking for something close to Taigen's 76 OD to take away the black blobs.Originally posted by RichJohnson View PostProper OD 319 which was used from 1944 onward did not have any brown in it. Mig and other brands have some close OD colors but you don’t want one with any brown in it if you want to be accurate.
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Go with Rich. Choose a color and paint the whole thing. It's no harder than painting part of your tank, and you'll never get a 100% match. And, if you change something, you'll know the color to use. I've done this with my KV. The original turret and the 85 turret, as well as the upcoming Zik-20 conversion are all the same base color. Also, paint it , then spray the clear flat before you weather it. That way, if you're using washes, thinners or other substances you won't affect the base coat.The more screws it takes to reassemble a tank, the more likely it is you left something out!
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Just placed an order for a TK40 (SBUS version) and a Visaton FRWS 5 (8 ohm) since the V3 didn’t seem to play well with my TX/RX in PWM mode. Hoping the Clark will be smooth to set up- I’m sure it’ll perform better over the V3 from what I’ve seen/read. Just couldn’t possibly see myself going back to the stock TX. Are there any other things I may need to change to get the rest of the stock Taigen components working with the TK40?
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I removed the black stripes:Originally posted by sclui56 View Post
David, I am so glad you found the shimmering black questionable. I can't understand the reasoning behind that!
SoCal RC Tank Club Facebook Group
Largest active RC Tank club in Southern California
Gathering 1-2x monthly/All Ages & Experience levels welcome
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I have some extra HL decals so I made them useful :-)SoCal RC Tank Club Facebook Group
Largest active RC Tank club in Southern California
Gathering 1-2x monthly/All Ages & Experience levels welcome
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