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Panther G 7.0

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  • #21
    Hey Bob have you seen any difference in the 6.0 boards vs the 7.0's I have converted a bunch of old tanks with the 6.0 boards but have not gotten a 7.0 yet? I see that here is a ton of 7.0 stuff out there. And will the 6.0 Tx bind with the 7.0. Any insight into the difference would be helpful I don't plan to do any heng long FPV so that isn't and issue.. Thanks for you time

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    • #22
      This is my first 7.0. It's very similar to 6.0, 6.1. There are additional functions and options, things like adjustable turn speed, turret speed, braking strength and plug-ins for future features. All of the mechanics of the Panther are the same as before, and they all plug right into the 7.0 board. There's a 7.1 shown, which appears to be the same but with higher amperage capability. It says 180A on its face. Some of the functions use different control inputs, like volume has a up and down input rather than cycling.

      Bottom line, unless you have a function you want but isn't supported with 6.0 or 6.1, there's no need for a 7.0. Having said that, I don't think Heng Long is raising the prices of their 7.0 tanks very much. DavidN saw a Sturmgeschutz 7.0 for $188 + shipping. My Panther with metal tracks and gears was $250 shipping included.
      Twenty six tanks, and not done yet!

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      • #23
        I found this on another forum;

        The changes from the TK6.0 to the TK6.0s were as follows:
        1. Optional dual current driving system - Gives you the ability to use a dual current gearbox (single drive motor and single steering motor)
        2. Switchable Stick layout - Single stick drive or dual stick drive
        3. Switchable front/rear lights (in sync not separate)

        The TK6.1 adds support for servos (recoil and elevation) as well as 2S-3S 7.4-11.1V LiPo support. There are also additional plugs for canon stabiliser (Heng Long branded 2 pin only) and light sensor.



        The TK7.0 has the following changes:
        1. Ability to disable the BB system from the radio. This lets you just hear the cannon sound when firing main gun. I like this feature.
        2. Adjustable braking - choose from 3 options depending on tank.
        3. Tank pivoting speeds are now adjustable. From turning on the spot to having an actual pivoting radius
        4. Adjustable turning curve radius.
        5. Two different MG sounds - Coaxial and cupola MG's selectable via the radio.
        6. Radio Reset feature - You can reset the radio/tank settings to a factory setting.



        The TK7.0 also only features 2 sound sets to choose from - these are M1 Abrams and Leopard 2A6. These sounds have been updated and do sound a little better than the TK6 series on some sounds.

        Steve

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        • #24
          Thanks fellas, all good information

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          • #25
            Main reason for asking is I spent 2 years converting all the 27 and 5.3 stuff over to 6.0 and 6.1 Just was hoping the 7.0 stuff would play nice with the 6.0 set ups. I take it the 7.0 boards won't bind up with the 6.0 Tx and visa versa. I usually run several tanks off of one Tx the main thing is if the IR works together. The new features of the 7.0 system sound interesting and fun. I just pulled the trigger on a Pz III 7.0 so we will see. I usually get a static Heng long and convert it since I have all the bulk connectors and for the most part enjoy the conversion. I have noticed that the upgrades that Heng long has done to the new tanks is nice with the faster motors on the lift and turrets is noticeable, also the nice new steel TU's. So if you were to make a good runner its more cost effective just to buy the tank outright.

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            • #26
              I have been converting almost all my static tanks using the 6.0S boards. I am quite happy with them. I bought 5 7.0 system RTR HL tanks. I use only 1 transmitter for all 5 of those tanks.

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              • #27
                David, So can you use the 7.0 TX on the 6.0 board??

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                • #28
                  Originally posted by Vaseline View Post
                  David, So can you use the 7.0 TX on the 6.0 board??
                  Yes you can use the 7.0TX with all the 6.0/6.1 systems.

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                  • #29
                    Originally posted by Vaseline View Post
                    David, So can you use the 7.0 TX on the 6.0 board??
                    I only use 6.0s transmitter for 6.0s tanks and I use 7.0 transmitter for 7.0 tanks. I have not crossed them over.

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                    • #30
                      Originally posted by Rubicon99 View Post

                      Yes you can use the 7.0TX with all the 6.0/6.1 systems.
                      How about 6.0 txs with 7.0 boards?
                      Twenty six tanks, and not done yet!

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                      • #31
                        Originally posted by SoCalBobS View Post

                        How about 6.0 txs with 7.0 boards?
                        Yes it works

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                        • #32
                          Sweet Thanks for the information

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                          • #33
                            90% done. I opted for a historical camo scheme. B7W photo was taken after a battle near Muncheberg in March 1945.

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                            The camo was supposed to be hard edged between colors, but as in the b&w photo, examination looks like it was done with a sloshy paint brush. No masking tape there! You can see that the tanks had individual variations. And other photos show that the top surfaces weren't camo'ed.

                            Mine hasn't been in the dirt yet.
                            Twenty six tanks, and not done yet!

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                            • #34
                              Maybe you can bring it up to battle in LA sometimes to help out the Axis side :-).

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                              • #35
                                I finished putting the side skirts on my jagdpanther. Before I was planning to paint a similar scheme like yours. But it is too easy .


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                                • #36
                                  I am just kidding :-) I already have planned on applying this scheme

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                                  • #37
                                    Earlier Sureshot mentioned Panthers shedding tracks. My short time experience showed me some interesting behaviors. Pebbles caught in between the two sets of teeth can set up a detrack. Dirt hasn’t detracked but can clog and stop a track. Neither happens often, but more than some other tanks. I believe the large interleaved road wheels and the double teeth contribute to this, not letting debris fall out to the sides.

                                    This is probably why tanks with separated road wheels, like the T-34, M26 and M41, are so reliable in dirt! That’s also probably why real modern tanks have that configuration…
                                    Twenty six tanks, and not done yet!

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                                    • #38
                                      I realize this thread is old but wanted to run something by the hive mind. My son just received his HL Panther G and upon unboxing it found that the two plastic teeth that hold the hatch covering the on/off switch were completely broken off. I'm left wondering if he just got unlucky or if this is a design flaw. We haven't had any issues with the hatches on our Sherman, T-34, or Abrams, so I'm hoping it's just dumb bad luck. Either way, I thought I'd see if anyone else had this problem on their Panther G before re-ordering another. Thanks in advance!

                                      Update: While packing up the Panther G for return, my son also discovered that the bow machine gun is stuck in a position such that the barrel cannot even be inserted. I'm guessing I could possibly correct that by taking it apart and re-assembling, but since I'm returning it anyway, I'm not going to bother. Maybe he just got a bum unit.

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                                      • #39
                                        Regarding the mg, opening it up would most likely allow you to fix it unless some glue got into it. Mine is jammed too, but at an angle that allowed me to insert the barrel, so I haven't checked it internally.

                                        Regarding the hatch, it is very fragile. Any replacement will have the same problem. Mine broke after a few uses. My solution was to use a couple of rare earth magnets (they're very cheap online) to secure the hatch once the hinge broke.

                                        Small comfort, but fixing small defects is actually an enjoyable part of the hobby for most of us.
                                        Twenty six tanks, and not done yet!

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                                        • #40
                                          That's actually good to know. In that case, I'll probably open her up and see if the mg ball can be adjusted. It looks like it may have been installed upside down if that's possible. I guess if that can be corrected, then we'll just hold onto it and use your magnet fix for the hatch. Thanks!

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