Seems like I waited forever on these tracks, just got a couple of sets from AAF and I believe they have 2 more sets available, in case some of you are looking for.
-
-
I went ahead and bought Tamiya Leopard from them about a week ago. I had previously ordered the Panther, but apparently I didn’t notice that they didn’t have it in stock (backordered about two years so far according to them), so I pulled the trigger. May I ask why you wanted the Tamiya Leopard tracks? Are they better than others. I was not too impressed with the Tamiya Tiger I tracks and replaced them with Taigen tracks which seem to work rather well. Additionally, it seems that many 1/16 Tamiya tanks have been discontinued; do you know if they will make other models? -
Tamiya Panther tracks are nothing like Tamiya Leopard 2 or Abrams tracks. Totally different designs and methods of construction.
Tamiya Leopard 2 and Tamiya Abrams tracks are the simply the BEST of their kind. Lighter yet just as strong, taller guide teeth that greatly improve track retention over their competitors and slightly harder rubber pads that grip well but are NOT to soft (like the other) as to cause them to be overly “sticky” on concrete sidewalks or similar terrain causing the tank to turn sluggishly.
I have owned and run every brand of aftermarket Leopard 2 and Abrams tracks on multiple tanks and not one runs as reliably as Tamiya. You pay more for Tamiya but you get what you pay for.Comment
-
@RT, like Rubicon said, the Tamiya ones are supposed to be better. I got 2 Taigen Leo 2's and they came with metal tracks, nothing wrong with them but I don't like how the worn bare metal "pads" look. I tried a set of DKLM metal with rubber pads, while the double links are correct, they are not nearly as smooth, the rubber pads sometimes slide outboard a bit and cause issues at the sprocket teeth (tracks jump a bit). I know for a fact Rubicon drives his tanks a lot harder than I do and he recommended these, so I should be good with these sets.Comment
-
Can one of you kindly post a picture of the space between the idler and the 1st wheel on both sides of your Leopard II? I have a HL Leopard II and I would like to see these areas for comparison. In my tank, on the right side, the space between the idler and the 1st wheel is about 12mm. But on the left side, it is almost double at 24mm.
SoCal RC Tank Club Facebook Group
Largest active RC Tank club in Southern California
Gathering 1-2x monthly/All Ages & Experience levels welcomeComment
-
This makes the right front track is more in front than the left front track. Is this normal? Would it affect the movement and direction of the tank when it gets to a slope?
SoCal RC Tank Club Facebook Group
Largest active RC Tank club in Southern California
Gathering 1-2x monthly/All Ages & Experience levels welcomeComment
-
Yes you are correct there is a difference between the two sides. It is this way even on the real tank. It has to do with the way the suspension system is lied out.Can one of you kindly post a picture of the space between the idler and the 1st wheel on both sides of your Leopard II? I have a HL Leopard II and I would like to see these areas for comparison. In my tank, on the right side, the space between the idler and the 1st wheel is about 12mm. But on the left side, it is almost double at 24mm.
One side will have a slight steeper track approach angle then the other. So as long as you are not having any de-tracking issues you are fine.Comment
-
David,
Similar L & R spacing on my Taigen's.Comment
-
-
At least you now have the spares to rebuild the tamiya tranny, when I wore out the tranny in my KT back in the early 90s there was nothing around. Was the single motor, twin clutch version. Gave it away to a collector friendComment
-
Rubicon99 It seems to take forever, first I was told by Tami these were discontinued when I tried to source some back in June, BUT the 2 sets I ordered from AAF finally showed up today. They look and feel good. I quickly shed Leo #1 of the DKLM and put the Tami's on, they were the exact length I needed, no adjustment on tension. I ran her for a full charge and these are by far the best Leo 2 tracks out of the 3 sets.
There was nothing really wrong with the OEM Taigen's, aside from the weight and fake double link, and the fact I didn't like shinny pads, they did not give me any issue. Then I got the DKLM because the Tami's were "discontinued" at the time, these look pretty good, a bit more elaborate looking, but because of how the pads are retained (friction & grooves), the pads would sometimes work outboard and ride on the sprocket, causing track jumps but never threw once. These can go on the Abrams to shave some stress.
The Tami's are just so smooth running and quiet, very pleased. Thanks Rubcon.
L->R (Tami, DKLM, Taigen)
Comment
-
Glad to hear you finally got a set and that they are working out well for you👍👍Rubicon99 It seems to take forever, first I was told by Tami these were discontinued when I tried to source some back in June, BUT the 2 sets I ordered from AAF finally showed up today. They look and feel good. I quickly shed Leo #1 of the DKLM and put the Tami's on, they were the exact length I needed, no adjustment on tension. I ran her for a full charge and these are by far the best Leo 2 tracks out of the 3 sets.
There was nothing really wrong with the OEM Taigen's, aside from the weight and fake double link, and the fact I didn't like shinny pads, they did not give me any issue. Then I got the DKLM because the Tami's were "discontinued" at the time, these look pretty good, a bit more elaborate looking, but because of how the pads are retained (friction & grooves), the pads would sometimes work outboard and ride on the sprocket, causing track jumps but never threw once. These can go on the Abrams to shave some stress.
The Tami's are just so smooth running and quiet, very pleased. Thanks Rubcon.
L->R (Tami, DKLM, Taigen)
Comment
Comment