The color changed over time. In the 67 and 73 wars the IDF just used a sand color. It got darker in the id late 70s then moved to a khaki color in the 80s then became the siani grey/green in the 90s that it is today. That color fades fast in the siani but not as much in the golden and West Bank of the river valley. Even in the 90s and early 2000s though the IDF used sand color on many Merkavas deployed in the siani since it was a better cammo color until they just used the grey/green on everything.
so for the 67/73 war era centurions the color should just be a sand color.
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Tamiya 1/16 Centurion build and field test.
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Copy that, started with a bit of Marklin HO's, then O scale MTH's, also got some 20.3 NG with a mix of Shay/Goose etc. What a mixed bag.
BTW, thanks for mentioning the color for the Centurion, I was about to settle on a mix of buff and dark yellow, but it's hard to come close to the sand grey in real life.
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On3. o scale narrow gauge. Mostly logging with Shays and the Southern Pacific narrow gauge Keeler branch in Owens valley
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Good to see alternatives on the barrel. BTW, what gauge trains?Originally posted by RichJohnson View PostI can’t get say when I will get to it, but it’s something I want to do to get more out there. It’s just a lot of work and I’m working on a bunch of my model trains right now that I have put off too long. Then I will get back to tank projects.
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I can’t get say when I will get to it, but it’s something I want to do to get more out there. It’s just a lot of work and I’m working on a bunch of my model trains right now that I have put off too long. Then I will get back to tank projects.
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Thank you both! I will make the adjustment. I am glad that there will be the affordable L7 barrels
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David that color is too dark ad you are not going to like the finished results if you are going for an IDF theme.
better Tamiya colors to use would buff or wood deck tan.
I use buff and then lightly weather.
With your weathering style you need a lighter base color.
just my opinion but you want to get the paint right on such a nice expensive model.
also, I am thinking about making urethane plastic cast 105mm L7 gun barrels since the aluminum ones are not going to be made again and we’re a limited project. The plastic ones will be much cheaper than the aluminum ones were.
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👍👍👍👍Originally posted by DavidN View Post
Did you make sure to add the flats spots to the motor shafts for the pinion screw to grab and hold onto? If not the pinion screw/gear will have a tendency to work loose and slip causing the tank to become immobilized.
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Good to see you have started your build and are making progress. The suspension is the “hard part”, from there the tank really starts to take shape fast. Looks like it should be ready for this months (Sept 2022) LA battle day on Saturday 🤞🤞Originally posted by DavidN View Post
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Good to see you making steady progress👍👍Originally posted by mikeronie View PostI have made a couple of mods to the Centurion. After seeing Rubicon99' tank I decided to add the on off switch under the rear vent. I also place the on off LED indicator under this vent, drilled a hole so it is visible. While working in that area I noticed there is a very large opening that may allow dirt to enter the tank. Using sheet styrene and rubber cement I closed off that area. Also following Rubicon99's recommendations I placed a 8.4V hump back battery as far forward as I could. I installed a after market Tagan small speaker. Since the battery is not easy to remove I added a Remote Recharging Jack Cable from East Coast Armory. The remote jack can either reach to the removal rear deck or out the drivers hatch.
Sealing off the back is a must for those of us that drive tanks outdoors especially in dusty conditions like we have here in the Southwest US. Without doing so large amount of dust and dirt gets inside. Far more then on most other tanks.
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