KV-2 1st Impression

[sclui56]

Always wanted the Torro KV-2 but IMEX doesn't bring it in so I picked up an upgraded KV-2 when it was available. This one is fully upgraded with metal + barrel recoil running 7.0. When I first removed it from the carton, there was zero suspension play, it just sat there at near max compression, must have been the weight of the metal parts and all the wheels are on the softest suspension. Ended up setting the first 2 & last 2 road wheels on each side to the stiffer setting, installed output shaft bearing, BTW, it is the same 8x12x3.5 as the T-90 & Abrams.

Now the suspension sits a whole lot better. The tension adjustment is a simple use of socket head screw pushing onto the idler arm, it feels fine when under tension, but by itself, the screws do wiggle. This got to be one of the cleanest fitted HL, MFU is hot-glued, wires are reasonably tidy. Came with 1x2s with XT60 been though the bay is large enough. It runs reasonably well so no complaint there.

Will probably keep it stock till I have more time, need to at least work on the bare metal parts.

[sclui56]

Finally got some time and decided to work on the tracks and metal wheels. Was contemplating redoing the pale green from HL but decided just to match it for now. Used mainly Tami's cockpit green, drops of NATO green and finished with slight hint of NATO brown.

I ran the tracks with little slack instead of full tension from factory, other than added noise, she hasn't thrown any track. May need to add holes to suspension, already tightened up the front 2 & rear 2 road wheels, but she squats on fast start and dives on stop.

Hopefully can find exhaust pipes in the U.S. to re-route the smoke so I can use the tail-light spot for red LED.

[Rubicon99]

Finally got some time and decided to work on the tracks and metal wheels. Was contemplating redoing the pale green from HL but decided just to match it for now. Used mainly Tami's cockpit green, drops of NATO green and finished with slight hint of NATO brown.

I ran the tracks with little slack instead of full tension from factory, other than added noise, she hasn't thrown any track. May need to add holes to suspension, already tightened up the front 2 & rear 2 road wheels, but she squats on fast start and dives on stop.

Hopefully can find exhaust pipes in the U.S. to re-route the smoke so I can use the tail-light spot for red LED.

To address the squatting and diving change the first two and last two suspension springs to the higher setting. This will help greatly.

[SoCalBobS]

Looks great! I highly recommend rerouting the exhaust. You can get fuel tubing at any hobby store. I've done that with my T-35. There's an added benefit; gravity will run the smoke oil down resulting in a more reliable burn. by the way, "mega steam" and "mega smoke" are model railroading products that put out a lot more smoke even with the stock smoke unit. oh yeah, and if anyone says "tanks don't smoke", they haven't discovered Youtube yet!

[Vaseline]

Yah Russian tanks smoke like steam engines

[sclui56]

To address the squatting and diving change the first two and last two suspension springs to the higher setting. This will help greatly.

Already did that on day 1 when the tank simply showed no suspension play, will need to drill additional holes.

[sclui56]

Looks great! I highly recommend rerouting the exhaust. You can get fuel tubing at any hobby store. I've done that with my T-35. There's an added benefit; gravity will run the smoke oil down resulting in a more reliable burn. by the way, "mega steam" and "mega smoke" are model railroading products that put out a lot more smoke even with the stock smoke unit. oh yeah, and if anyone says "tanks don't smoke", they haven't discovered Youtube yet!

Rerouting is simple, except I need to get a couple of the cast exhaust tips, the stock ones are not hollow. Been using MS actually for G-scale stuff, and you are right, it works well in tanks too.

[SoCalBobS]

Rerouting is simple, except I need to get a couple of the cast exhaust tips, the stock ones are not hollow. Been using MS actually for G-scale stuff, and you are right, it works well in tanks too.

Cool, when you find some, please share! I have a KV-1 awaiting attention.

[sclui56]

Cool, when you find some, please share! I have a KV-1 awaiting attention.

SoCalBobS Found some from Dominique (Germany), I think shipping is another ~8 Euro though. He quoted me 12.85 Euro, then there was another $0.99 PP fee.

https://www.rctank.de/KV-1-exhaust-made-of-metal-2-pcs



The other source is from Dave in UK, cost about the same. I can check w/ Dominique and see if he can just add another set before shipping if you want. Let me know here or PM.

Just to be clear, you only have to cover me 3.95 Euro for the parts, the $0.99 PP fee, and US postage depending on how you want it shipped (I'm in L.A.) when I receive, I am assuming another set of these won't add to the int'l postage.

[sclui56]

Bob, went ahead and did the tail light + removed the fake pipes with the hair dryer, soon as our pipes get here....

[DavidN]

That looks great. Thank you for sharing.

[DavidN]

I followed you lead and put a taillight in my KV-1. I already used LED3 slot in my board for the IR receiving light. Therefore I used the LED6 as the brake light. Thanks again!

[SoCalBobS]

Bob, went ahead and did the tail light + removed the fake pipes with the hair dryer, soon as our pipes get here....

Oh cool, they were just glued in and the heat loosened them.

David, does the brake light LED6 go off and on with acceleration, or is it on all the time?

[DavidN]

It is off initially. It is also off when the tank is on the move. When I bring the right stick back to neutral, the brake light turns on for 2 seconds then off.

[DavidN]

Sorry to be off with the KV-2 subject. For your information, the KV-1 also has a machine gun at the back of the turret. I connected the the wire from the MG at the front of the chassis with another red LED light for the MG at the rear of the turret. Then pin them together into the LED5 slot of the board. So when I press the MG button, both MGs in my KV-1 light up.

[sclui56]

[QUOTE=DavidN;n338823]I followed you lead and put a taillight in my KV-1. I already used LED3 slot in my board for the IR receiving light. Therefore I used the LED6 as the brake light. Thanks again!/QUOTE]

Your Tami KV actually has the tail light, right? I originally used LED6 but ended up going with LED3 (always on). BTW, I used 5mm LED's, and with the cavity in the HL KV-2, all I did was slip a clear silicone tube (excess from smoke units) over the bulb and the assembly fits inside perfectly.

David, it was a good idea to enable the rear MG. I might eventually get a Taigen/Torro lower, still think their torsion bar suspension is better.

[DavidN]

Your Tami KV actually has the tail light, right? I originally used LED6 but ended up going with LED3 (always on). BTW, I used 5mm LED's, and with the cavity in the HL KV-2, all I did was slip a clear silicone tube (excess from smoke units) over the bulb and the assembly fits inside perfectly.

David, it was a good idea to enable the rear MG. I might eventually get a Taigen/Torro lower, still think their torsion bar suspension is better.

Wow, my Tamiya KV-2 does have a taillight. I will check into it later. I have other tanks on my "operation" station now that I have no room to look into it :-).

For my KV-1, I will also use the tube to hold the light bulb more steady per your advice. I don't have any red 5mm LED left and I do have over 10 smaller (MG type) red LEDs. Therefore I will just have to use the little LED ones. They are still bright enough.

[sclui56]

David,

Just keep them coming, I enjoy seeing all the Tamiya's. Looks like your factory is full speed ahead, LOL.

Oh, speaking of MG, almost forgot to mention, you will get a much better visual if you insert one of those clear plastic rod into the MG instead of the black plastic HL provides. Taigen calls these fiber optics and IMHO, charges too much for them.



I think these will work equally well:

https://www.amazon.com/Plastruct-AR-2H-Clear-Rod-16/dp/B0006O6QXU/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2PXHV3FOMEU4Z&keywords=Plastruct+90291&qid=1646293713&sprefix=plastruct+90291%2Caps%2C114&sr=8-3

[Evan D]

The “black plastic” on my H-L’s are painted fiber optic.

[DavidN]

David,

Just keep them coming, I enjoy seeing all the Tamiya's. Looks like your factory is full speed ahead, LOL.

Oh, speaking of MG, almost forgot to mention, you will get a much better visual if you insert one of those clear plastic rod into the MG instead of the black plastic HL provides. Taigen calls these fiber optics and IMHO, charges too much for them.

Yes, I saw those as well. Taigen sells them for $5.00. But I wonder if it is $5.00 for 1 little piece or the bundle as in the picture you posted.
The entire MG set with the fiber optic insert, the gun, the LED light and wire is only $4.79. It would be weird to sell that little piece for $5.