Coolbank Models

[tank_me]

Saw an M60 update on Facebook. There's a video clip showing one running (can't copy it, unfortunately) on a slippery marble floor, but it's running. Anyway, DKLM RC chimed in there. He says he will be carrying the line when it is released. No date, though.

Bob, do you remember which group on FB or profile it was on?

[SoCalBobS]

Saw an M60 update on Facebook. There's a video clip showing one running (can't copy it, unfortunately) on a slippery marble floor, but it's running. Anyway, DKLM RC chimed in there. He says he will be carrying the line when it is released. No date, though.

[Rubicon99]

My Pershing is the T26E4 "Super Pershing"

Was thinking that might be the direction you were going. 👍👍

[Zippersnapper]

My Pershing is the T26E4 "Super Pershing"

[DavidN]

[DavidN]

Here are my Pershings. The Hs really need the long barrels to match with those Tamiyas.

[Rubicon99]

Tip of Muzzle break to entrance to mantlet:
Stock: 6.5"
Metal Recoil: 9.5"

Its hard to tell from this angle, but yea, Its about 3" longer..

Make that 10"....

Just for comparison the Tamiya M26 Pershing barrel is 8 1/8” in length from the mantle to the end of the muzzle brake.

[Zippersnapper]

Tip of Muzzle break to entrance to mantlet:
Stock: 6.5"
Metal Recoil: 9.5"

Its hard to tell from this angle, but yea, Its about 3" longer..

Make that 10"....

[quitcherbitchen]

I ordered the Pershing Metal Barrel with recoil-It just arrived, Its allot longer than the stock barrel, although the muzzle break appears to be the same.

Toucan-China Fleabay

Do you have any pictures of your purchase? Can you put a ruler next to it?

[tank_me]

The stock barrel is actually too short so the longer one is probably more accurate.

[Zippersnapper]

I will definitely do so for both. My 2 HL Pershing really need the longer barrels with the correct muzzle brakes.

I ordered the Pershing Metal Barrel with recoil-It just arrived, Its allot longer than the stock barrel, although the muzzle break appears to be the same.

Toucan-China Fleabay

[Delta_19]

Honestly I have no problems with an internal battery and charging via an external jack, IF the charging circuit is good.

A 20A 7.4V BMS is like $20 for single purchase, in bulk it can be a lot cheaper.

So if this tank turns out to be running 2 18650's in series hooked up to a BMS I don't see a problem, that's how laptops charge, cellphones, personal E-vheicles so on an so forth. But, if it's just a basic wall charger running straight to the batteries then yes that's a problem.

[keilau]

I’ve now had some back and forth communication with Mr Wang privately.
he is very stuck on the toy market aspect of his m60s and a price point of $200 ish.
he has told me they are not hobby grade and based on what he says they are going to be all plastic and much cheaper in quality than the current line of henglong tanks.
Im starting to get a bad feeling out the M60 model quality.

I am very interested in a RTR M60. If Coolbank does not cut corner too much, a sturdy ABS tank chassis like the Heng Long's has much potential for upgrade. It will appeal to DIYers like me. A toy market level price is a nice bonus.

It took Heng Long many years to build their hobbyist market share. I have a 2005 Pershing. HL had the foresight to not cut corner on the tank chassis integrity, suspension and gearbox mounting. My early metal upgrade looked good, ran well with the 5.3 version RC. But the overall result was not good enough because the Mato sourced metal track kept breaking even on smooth indoor floor. Last year (2021), I completed a 3rd upgrade of the 2005 Pershing with HL 6.0s RC system, Heng Xin gearbox, Tamiya 380 motor and the HL metal track. Earlier this year, I further improved the HL metal track with small rubber blocks. The latest upgraded Pershing still does not look as good as with the Mato track, but it runs super well even on grass lawn which is more difficult than dirt road. I give Heng Long full credit for their product foresight. I sure got my money's worth on the 2005 Pershing.

[tank_me]

I will agree that I won't charge my batteries inside the tank. I magnetize most of my tanks unless they already have a Taigen quick release system that is still viable with the mods I do.

[RichJohnson]

I just take the tops off. Rarely are my hulls screwed together. My DKlM m60 the upper hull slides forward as there are tabs that it latches on with man
gents on the bow top and bottom.
the Sherman’s just hold together well without screws.
the leopard 1a7 I just set it together no screws as well as the Merkava. I drive them pretty hard and haven’t had a problem so far.

if his hull is strong, one could easily just use two opposing corner screws to hold it together.

but charging in the tank, I don’t like to do that, like Bob said.

[SoCalBobS]

Hey, a challenge is always fun! I can thinks of posters in the past saying they immediately modified their tanks to use magnets because it was "better". Well, here's an opportunity! Seriously though, literally every single one of my tanks has been modified to some point or another. As far as charging, CB's isn't a new idea. For instance, my Mato M36 came with a charging jack to charge the lithium poly battery inside! Lipo! What were they thinking? That's not gonna happen.

[Rubicon99]

I asked CoolBank about the battery access issue. Here's his reply:

"Yes, if you want to replace the battery, you must loosen a few screws to remove the upper cover, but if it is just charging? You can directly use the charging head on the power switch."

I'm not sure what he means by a charging head on the power switch. In any event after 25 years in the r/c hobby, I'd be reluctant to charge a LiIon battery in a vehicle, especially without using a balance tap. And knowing that the constant tightening and loosening of screws will eventually break the plastic posts, I think magnets will have to be the solution. I'm going to try this shape. It should fit into the posts after I drill out 3/16" holes. I'll test it on my Heng Long tanks and let you know.


I'm ordering these from "Evan Design" online. Lots of goodies there!

Why did you go and ask him, now he will have to redesign the hull for battery access and it will then not be ready for purchasing in December... LOL!!! Dang engineers always forget the simplest most obvious things and then make the fix more complicated.

Adding an external power charging “jack” somewhere on the tank to charge a LiPoly or Li-Ion battery that is sealed inside the hull? I can’t see anything going wrong there (being sarcastic). Now with NiMH batteries that is a reasonable safe thing and I have a few tanks set up that way.

We have to remember its only intended to be a “toy” for young kids not a hobby grade tank for the enthusiast and we should only judge it as Mr W says “as a toy” not intended for us. It’s going to need a bunch of modification and upgrade work if it arrives as shown in the photos being posted online.

[SoCalBobS]

I asked CoolBank about the battery access issue. Here's his reply:

"Yes, if you want to replace the battery, you must loosen a few screws to remove the upper cover, but if it is just charging? You can directly use the charging head on the power switch."

I'm not sure what he means by a charging head on the power switch. In any event after 25 years in the r/c hobby, I'd be reluctant to charge a LiIon battery in a vehicle, especially without using a balance tap. And knowing that the constant tightening and loosening of screws will eventually break the plastic posts, I think magnets will have to be the solution. I'm going to try this shape. It should fit into the posts after I drill out 3/16" holes. I'll test it on my Heng Long tanks and let you know.


I'm ordering these from "K&J Magnetics" online. Lots of goodies there!

[tank_me]

I would hope that instead of claiming that he was beaten into submission, folks will appreciate his acceptance of customers desires in a positive manner.

I'm hoping that if he truly targets the toy market like HL did in the beginning that he offers upgrades and/or makes the tanks less toylike in the future after making enough money to support doing so. I just won't be a guinea pig on this one.

[Rubicon99]

As for the battery access it could be a hatch on the top or rear.

Based on the photos of his upper hull there is no battery access hatch, it is clearly a one piece hull. Any hatch in the rear would only open up to the gearboxes and or smoke systems and not provide enough space to easily remove or insert a battery. Remember this is in his words a “toy” intended for children. In which case the battery access needs to be simple like HL or the newer Tamiya tanks.