Russian T-90 Upgrade parts, instructions and videos

[cmdrcody]

Or you could learn Chinese...

I'd think I'd rather have a root canal 🤔

[Timbo68]

I have a pair of extra “IR” turret lights (from Aliexpress) on my T-72. As there are no rear lights, I’ve simply spliced them together and wired them to a plug into socket LED3 (just check the polarity - marked on the MFU case), and I can switch them on and off from the remote using ‘G’ and control stick 1. My MFU is a 7.1, but I’m sure the function is the same as the 7.0. The plug is the black or red 2-pin JST (Dupont?) type. These can be bought ready-wired. Works for me, anyway…

[tank_me]

I have a set of these red eyes for my T-90 that I will be installing eventually, but my hobby time has been degraded by going back to college. If someone wants to start paying the $4000 term fees for my classes I would gladly make videos of stuff instead of finishing my class work... :) Most of us just "do" and don't exactly document our procedures. It's just quicker to get stuff done rather than video it or document it as there is no financial gain to it and it takes time away from actually finishing my models. Has nothing to do with keeping secrets. I was a traditionally trained Army electronics repair specialist so wiring LEDs into my tanks is not something I even really think about...I just do it.

A word of advice for the crimpers...a lot of them are crappy. You may ruin a bunch of the silver connectors before you get the hang of it. There are vids on YouTube showing the best crimping methods for JST/Dupont connectors. I've had a lot of the wires pull out of the JST or Dupont connector pins so I typically put a tiny bit of solder on mine and only use the crimper to bend the "wings" of the pin over. Just my process as I'm proficient with a soldering iron.

Another thing is most of my tanks us Clark boards so I really couldn't give any advice on which ports to use on the standard HL boards. You will find that a lot of us "enthusiasts" build our tanks for our own needs or purposes. Some like to battle, some don't. Some like to have the most realistic tank counting every rivet, some don't. Some like these electronics, some like other electronics. That's primarily why there are not typically a lot of really detailed vids of exactly what someone is looking for even though lots of people have done it. Google in English will not find documents in other languages as your search terms are in English. Just the nature of the beast.

[SoCalBobS]

Red eyes.. these were store bought with the tank, but simply routed wires through holes in the turret and connected to, in my case, the tail light circuit.

[cmdrcody]

Red eyes.. these were store bought with the tank, but simply routed wires through holes in the turret and connected to, in my case, the tail light circuit.

I been looking into it myself and that seems to be the only option on the TK7.0 board LED3 so you can turn them on and off easily.
Like how you added all the extra reactionary plates around your tank. Looks great.👍 May I inquire as to what they are made of or were they purchased?

[tank_me]

I don't know if this is the cheapest you can find the add-on armor ERA blocks, but you can find them at AliExpress. I believe Ebay may have them also, but don't use the term "ERA" as Heng Long doesn't call them that. I use a generic search like "1/16" "Heng Long" "T-72". Use the quotes to get better results and just search through the listings.

https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256804307214361.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.21b275abPVuDGQ&algo_pvid=db59b9f6-cf02-4545-930a-856c802c2074&algo_exp_id=db59b9f6-cf02-4545-930a-856c802c2074-35&pdp_ext_f=%7B%22sku_id%22%3A%2212000029350814342%22%7D&pdp_npi=2%40dis%21USD%2159.99%2159.99%21%21%21%21%21%402101e9cf16708064777566193e728a%2112000029350814342%21sea&curPageLogUid=8UL5kDT5Qkvg

[SoCalBobS]

Toucan updated their T-72 with ERA. They sell the additional parts separately. Bought them and used real photos to determine where to place them. In real life, they’re ad how, so anywhere reasonable is good.

I think all the LED circuits on the HL boards are 5-6 volts, so pick which you want.

[cmdrcody]

Toucan updated their T-72 with ERA. They sell the additional parts separately. Bought them and used real photos to determine where to place them. In real life, they’re ad how, so anywhere reasonable is good.

I think all the LED circuits on the HL boards are 5-6 volts, so pick which you want.

Say Bob, I just received the 'Red Eye' lights from Toucan and there is a yellow and black wire from each. Since I've heard about the Chinese are bad about color vs polarity of wires, is the black negative and the yellow positive?

[Evan D]

They color code it by function... Black is negative but if you look inside or in the manual you'll see different colors for the positive.

[cmdrcody]

They color code it by function... Black is negative but if you look inside or in the manual you'll see different colors for the positive.

What manual are you talking about?? 🤔 There's no mention of wire color codes in the instruction manual that came with the T90.

[SoCalBobS]

Black is almost always negative. sometimes brown is substituted for black. Red is the usual positive wire but different colors may be used for positive sometimes, just to separate one from the other. In the case of your LEDs, if you reverse the wires, they just won't work, they won't burn out (not the case with your batteries, you'll burn out the MFU if you cross them.) If you use servos, black/brown is negative, red/orange is positive, yellow/white is signal. Look at the manual page that shows the MFU & associate the colors to the +, - & S. That part's up to you. This is basic electrical wiring, which you'll need to teach yourself.

[cmdrcody]

Black is almost always negative. sometimes brown is substituted for black. Red is the usual positive wire but different colors may be used for positive sometimes, just to separate one from the other. In the case of your LEDs, if you reverse the wires, they just won't work, they won't burn out (not the case with your batteries, you'll burn out the MFU if you cross them.) If you use servos, black/brown is negative, red/orange is positive, yellow/white is signal. Look at the manual page that shows the MFU & associate the colors to the +, - & S. That part's up to you. This is basic electrical wiring, which you'll need to teach yourself.

Thank you, Bob. Pretty much know wiring on US made RC items. Just was wanting an idea if the Chinese were throwing in any loopholes that I should know about on these HengLong electronics.

[Evan D]

Sorry. I guess it’s what I wrote in my manual…

[SoCalBobS]

Thank you, Bob. Pretty much know wiring on US made RC items. Just was wanting an idea if the Chinese were throwing in any loopholes that I should know about on these HengLong electronics.

In my 24 HL tanks, all has been standard.

[cmdrcody]

Okay, got the 'Red Eyes' mounted and wired to LED3 on the TK-7.0 board.

[cmdrcody]

Has anyone installed and is using the HengLong 1/16 RC Tank FPV Camera Unit Part? I think this would be a great add-on to make videos of your battles or just to keep track of where your tank is if it gets temporarily out of sight. Any reviews from someone using it?

http://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256801950662248.html?gatewayAdapt=glo2usa&_randl_shipto=US

[SoCalBobS]

Has anyone installed and is using the HengLong 1/16 RC Tank FPV Camera Unit Part? I think this would be a great add-on to make videos of your battles or just to keep track of where your tank is if it gets temporarily out of sight. Any reviews from someone using it?

http://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256801950662248.html?gatewayAdapt=glo2usa&_randl_shipto=US

Absolutely useless. Works on wifi with your phone, which limits range to 30' or so. Lots of lags, freeze frames and drop outs.