I don't have the TM, just reference pics and a MERDC book I picked up off Amazon. There is some artistic license in it as I said as I decided not to mask it. It's close though - call it field applied... ;) . The crisper lines are from the Iwata HP-CS. It works so much better than my old Paasche Talon. It does take a lot more finger control to get the fine lines, but since I laid the lighter sand color down first I was able to crisp up the lines with the darker field drab color. Then I went back over any spots were there was a little too much blending of the colors and fixed them. The Iwata tip doesn't get all clogged up like my Talon did. It is also a lot more forgiving for mixing the paint. It seems to work better than the Talon with both thicker and thinner paint.
Overall, I'm happy with how it turned out. I did find a pair of spare motors in my stuff that were all wired up with caps and leads so I swapped them in for the stock motors as like others have posted the gears were square cut. For some reason the two small screws toward the back of the motors seem to have stripped out on both gearboxes. I think I'm going to rig up a motor bracing system between the motors using the bottom screw bosses to secure it. I don't like the idea of the gearboxes only being supported by two screws each.
Paint used was the 3rd gen AK MERDC set that has an entire paint set to do all the different MERDC schemes. I find AK paints to just be...OK. I actually much prefer Tamiya, but sometimes it's harder to find the Tamiya paints that match and frankly I hate mixing paint to get a match especially when I'm laying down a lot of it. Mixing a little to match a small paint repair is fine. I saved some paint by not spraying one down as a base coat. I just primed it and rough sprayed the sand color in approximately the locations it needed to be. I cleaned up the lines with the field drab. I may have 1/4 bottle left in the sand and field drab colors. The camo does take a long time and care to get looking right. The NATO 3-color is a little more forgiving and on the M60, the lower hull is just solid green so I think when I build the M60A3, it will get a NATO camo. ;) I do have most of the parts printed to do an M60 Slick and that will probably get the standard one color olive paint similar to the other M60 build seen here on Hobby Squawk (think it's Rich's).
Overall, I'm happy with how it turned out. I did find a pair of spare motors in my stuff that were all wired up with caps and leads so I swapped them in for the stock motors as like others have posted the gears were square cut. For some reason the two small screws toward the back of the motors seem to have stripped out on both gearboxes. I think I'm going to rig up a motor bracing system between the motors using the bottom screw bosses to secure it. I don't like the idea of the gearboxes only being supported by two screws each.
Paint used was the 3rd gen AK MERDC set that has an entire paint set to do all the different MERDC schemes. I find AK paints to just be...OK. I actually much prefer Tamiya, but sometimes it's harder to find the Tamiya paints that match and frankly I hate mixing paint to get a match especially when I'm laying down a lot of it. Mixing a little to match a small paint repair is fine. I saved some paint by not spraying one down as a base coat. I just primed it and rough sprayed the sand color in approximately the locations it needed to be. I cleaned up the lines with the field drab. I may have 1/4 bottle left in the sand and field drab colors. The camo does take a long time and care to get looking right. The NATO 3-color is a little more forgiving and on the M60, the lower hull is just solid green so I think when I build the M60A3, it will get a NATO camo. ;) I do have most of the parts printed to do an M60 Slick and that will probably get the standard one color olive paint similar to the other M60 build seen here on Hobby Squawk (think it's Rich's).
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