M2 Bradley by Tongde

[SoCalBobS]

I can use some educated opinions on the best Vallejo colors to paint this vehicle when I get around to it. Tan yes, but which?

[SoCalBobS]

Some minor observations:

There is some overhang at the front and rear so it doesn't climb curbs as well as an MBT. And it has less ground clearance than a typical tank. I would guess that it's the same for the real ones. The Bradley isn't meant to be a heavy fighter.



The "cover" on the TOW launcher is just a flap suspended on one screw. The consequence is that it covers the IR bulb when down so IR shooting will have to be in the up position. The IR bulb is the one closer to the turret. The other light is on the "launch flash" circuit. I'm contemplating putting a laser light in its place.

[Rubicon99]

Some minor observations:

There is some overhang at the front and rear so it doesn't climb curbs as well as an MBT. I would guess that it's the same for the real ones. The Bradley isn't meant to be a heavy fighter.



The "cover" on the TOW launcher is just a flap suspended on one screw. The consequence is that it covers the IR bulb when down so IR shooting will have to be in the up position. The IR bulb is the one closer to the turret. The other light is on the "launch flash" circuit. I'm contemplating putting a laser light in its place.

Why not make them both IR? That would ensure longer range high probabilities of hits and also rendered IFA tanks almost useless against it given the amount of IR energy that would be coming out.

[SoCalBobS]

Why not make them both IR? That would ensure longer range high probabilities of hits and also rendered IFA tanks almost useless against it given the amount of IR energy that would be coming out.

Interesting. Does the IR circuit transmit a coded pulse? I'm not an LED expert, so would series or parallel be needed, and if so would they need resistors in circuit? I'm actually not sure replacing the IR bulb is feasible. The TOW launcher houses those LED's and the mechanism for raising and lowering it. It will take major disassembly to get to and opening that housing, and I don't know if there will be room to recess our HP IR bulbs. If I were to extend a tube as we do on some other tank mountings, the cover would have to be eliminated. I tested the stock IR bulb and it is equivalent to Heng Long's; about 10-15 feet range on a bright day. I don't think two stock bulbs (I have plenty) would increase range much.

Hey, the challenge of the unknown is exhilarating! Fun, fun fun.

[RichJohnson]

Two IR LEDs would reduce the watts to both so they would shoot SP with less intensity, might burn out the ir circuit as well depending on how you wired them series or parallel and depending on mfu. I know my IBu would be very unhappy with that current draw of two bulbs.

[SoCalBobS]

I finally got around to opening up the tank for an in-depth inspection. I'm preparing to upgrade the IR bulb to a high power one. I found an interesting factoid regarding the auto cannon recoil. It is not, as I previously guessed, solenoid operated. It's much simpler, a small motor spinning a cam to pull the barrel in and out.



Another plug for DKLM. I bought possibly the first model to arrive in the US, definitely from the first production batch. The Tongde 2.0 main board had a defect; the IR receiver wouldn't register hits. Once I assured Carson I'd checked the usual suspects like loose wires, he sent a replacement with two day shipment. Works fine.

[Rubicon99]

I finally got around to opening up the tank for an in-depth inspection. I'm preparing to upgrade the IR bulb to a high power one. I found an interesting factoid regarding the auto cannon recoil. It is not, as I previously guessed, solenoid operated. It's much simpler, a small motor spinning a cam to pull the barrel in and out.



Another plug for DKLM. I bought possibly the first model to arrive in the US, definitely from the first production batch. The Tongde 2.0 main board had a defect; the IR receiver wouldn't register hits. Once I assured Carson I'd checked the usual suspects like loose wires, he sent a replacement with two day shipment. Works fine.

If it is just a motor and cam it should be much easier to modify aka slow the rate of recoil down to something more realistic to the 25mm cannon on the M2.

Can you take a closer photo of the cam so I could pass it along to see if a modify one could be made that would produce a slower "rate of fire"?

[cmdrcody]

Bob, Have you seen this video of the rear door operation?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5Cg9ZE_pkxE

Also looks like it has metal tracks, road wheels, sprockets and idler.

[SoCalBobS]

CC: Thanks, I hadn't seen that clip but that's exactly what I was planning to do. That's a low priority for now because I'm using that ramp opening to plug in my battery. I'll get to it at some time. I got the metal running gear also, already put on a coat of paint.

R99: The motor turns the disc which has an offset post. That post pushes the floating breech and barrel forward and back as the disc rotates. The disc is about 3/8" in diameter. The motor is controlled through the LED 5 MG flashing light circuit. It probably just takes the + and - leads and runs the motor when the MG (left) button is pressed.



I also opened up the TOW launcher case to see if the IR LED could be upgraded. Looks to be a quick task. The case raises and lowers by a servo using the CH2 servo lifting circuit. Fortunately the servo is placed far enough back to allow a recessed high power IR bulb to fit.

[cmdrcody]

Did you notice that there was a small link-rod (45 second mark of video) on the TOW launcher door that keep it in the vertical position throughout launcher movement.

[SoCalBobS]

Did you notice that there was a small link-rod (45 second mark of video) on the TOW launcher door that keep it in the vertical position throughout launcher movement.

Yeah, that's a high priority mod! I see other mods too; machine gun light, main gun slow rate of fire, different muzzle flash LED, etc.

I may experiment with filling all the "exterior stores" holes with styrene rod. Thirteen holes per side, plus top and front!

[SoCalBobS]

I finished upgrading to a high power IR bulb. it is now recessed the requisite 9mm. The tube aperture is wide, but since it is supposed to simulate a guided missile that can change trajectory in flight, some IR spread seems reasaonable. I can always choke it down later if necessary. I also replaced the red "firing" light with a laser, and plugged that into the "aiming" circuit. It's pretty dim, it seems that circuit on the TD board is a lower voltage than on HL's. It's all for fun anyhow! I mounted Tang's pre-made five channel socket on the turret top so I can remove the legoDEI receiver at will.

I encountered an issue with the TD IR receiver that others have noticed too. It doesn't register hits all the time. It's working now, yesterday not so much. I'll just have to pre-check it before each battle. A couple of hits to check would actually make its relative survivability a little more realistic.

[Rubicon99]

I finished upgrading to a high power IR bulb. it is now recessed the requisite 9mm. The tube aperture is wide, but since it is supposed to simulate a guided missile that can change trajectory in flight, some IR spread seems reasaonable. I can always choke it down later if necessary. I also replaced the red "firing" light with a laser, and plugged that into the "aiming" circuit. It's pretty dim, it seems that circuit on the TD board is a lower voltage than on HL's. It's all for fun anyhow! I mounted Tang's pre-made five channel socket on the turret top so I can remove the legoDEI receiver at will.

I encountered an issue with the TD IR receiver that others have noticed too. It doesn't register hits all the time. It's working now, yesterday not so much. I'll just have to pre-check it before each battle. A couple of hits to check would actually make its relative survivability a little more realistic.

Missile spread logic 👍👍 in my book as long as it does not effect 🥴team mates along side you ....

[SoCalBobS]

Well, I tried. The M2 comes with a large amount of external stores, and mounting holes throughout the hull for them. The two options are to add the stores or plug the holes. I painted, hi-lighted, washed and dusted them, but they just are so crude they still looked poor.



So, it's option two for me. My plan is to use plastic plugs of the correct size and repaint over them.

[SoCalBobS]

FS-33722

I plugged the holes and applied a base coat of Testor's U.S. Modern Desert Sand. It's discontinued but I had two cans stashed away. I should have enough, but my question is what paint that's available comes close in case I need touch-ups?

[Rubicon99]

FS-33722

I plugged the holes and applied a base coat of Testor's U.S. Modern Desert Sand. It's discontinued but I had two cans stashed away. I should have enough, but my question is what paint that's available comes close in case I need touch-ups?

For the Tamiya 1/16 Abrams in US desert color they recommend TS-46. It's close but not an exact match for the Testers MM US DesyTan.

[keilau]

For the Tamiya 1/16 Abrams in US desert color they recommend TS-46. It's close but not an exact match for the Testers MM US DesyTan.

The Tamiya XF-59 or the TS-3 desert yellow are better matches. The Vallejo has desert yellow too. Most acrylic model paint are for plastic. You need to prime the metal parts. I like the Krylon primer, any color, which are cheap and widely available.

[SoCalBobS]

Fortunately my spray cans held out. Now to put grime and/or rust around a LOT of rivets and bolts!

[SoCalBobS]

Paint progress:

Added grime around bolt heads and started to drape camo netting. Lots more to do.

[Rubicon99]

Taking shape👍👍