Official Tongde US M60A3 1/16 Scale Battle Tank Discussion Thread

[Rubicon99]

Any chance Tongde will come out with an aftermarket slip ring for 360 rotation?

Just use one from Heng Long if you must have unlimited 360. Wiring is 99% the same between the brands. Better yet just swap over to a HengLong 7.1 at the same time and get a better driving and upgrade ability.

[MaverickTank]

Bottom line up front: even if you aren't the most skilled modeler, you can improve the appearance of your M60 with this simple mod.

Cut out the flat sections with a Dremel cut-off wheel, then trim the cuts smooth with the edge a hobby knife and a nail file. The wire mesh is a 1/2" wide piece of window screen expoxied to the inside. The Dremel cuts are pretty easy. It took about thirty minutes to make this.

I know that this won't win any hobby awards; there are many ways that my work could be improved to better resemble the prototype. The reason I post this is because most modelers will be able to pull this mod off, and it improves the appearance of the model.

I still need to paint it and add some tarps and junk.

[Rubicon99]

Bottom line up front: even if you aren't the most skilled modeler, you can improve the appearance of your M60 with this simple mod.

Cut out the flat sections with a Dremel cut-off wheel, then trim the cuts smooth with the edge a hobby knife and a nail file. The wire mesh is a 1/2" wide piece of window screen expoxied to the inside. The Dremel cuts are pretty easy. It took about thirty minutes to make this.

I know that this won't win any hobby awards; there are many ways that my work could be improved to better resemble the prototype. The reason I post this is because most modelers will be able to pull this mod off, and it improves the appearance of the model.

I still need to paint it and add some tarps and junk.

Look good👍 and it is easy enough for anyone to do.

[DennisH]

I have already switched to the Heng Long 7.1. So I understand that your saying I can also use a HL slip ring for rotation.

[Fran hoedel]

This is Fran Hoedel and I just received the tangde m60a3 patton tank but I have a problem with turning the headlights on and off

[RichJohnson]

Tongde mfu units sometimes have malfunctions. They don’t have the highest QC on the boards.

[Rubicon99]

This is Fran Hoedel and I just received the tangde m60a3 patton tank but I have a problem with turning the headlights on and off

Might simply have become unplugged from the control system. Your tank came with a control system manual? It shows all the plug locations so you can check easily. Don't be afraid to try its really easy tank to take apart.

[MaverickTank]

Okay- I know this thread is in a coma, but this post might be helpful for those considering buying the Tongde M60. I have many tanks and run them regularly. Over the past year, the Tongde M60 has become my favorite tank. Yes, favorite, to the point that I weep at the thought that there are M60's serving as artificial reefs in the ocean. Who thought that was a good idea? SIGH.

Overall: It's very close to being a great model. If you are into tank modeling or tank history, BUY THIS TANK! A little work goes a long way. The M60 is an iconic tank, and a must for any armor collection. Yes- a bit pricey compared to Heng Long offerings. But, DO IT! It's an M60! (HEY TONGDE! LOWER YOUR PRICES!)

Drivetrain: Don't get the nylon gear boxes unless you plan on running it indoors on smooth floors. Get the steel gearboxes. They are excellent. The nylon are widely reported as being fragile.

Tracks: This is where I get flamed. The metal tracks suck. Yes. SUCKY!

Metal gearboxes? Yes. Metal wheels and drive sprockets? Yes.

NO on the metal tracks. They add a ton of weight, wear and tear on the drivetrain, and reduce battery time. Suck in grass. Bind, drag, and grind. The nylon tracks are very durable, LOOK BETTER, and are kind to the drive mechanisms. I run my tank in dirt and tall grass, and the nylon is the way to go. Metal tracks are a waste on this model, IMHO. The suspension works great without the added weight of heavy pot-metal tracks. Kinda ironic, but nylon are more durable than the metal tracks. Go fig.

Paint: You will need to paint this model to make it excellent. But, that's fun! Dig into the internet to find the paint scheme that suits you. Go with actual photos and avoid the suggestions on modeling forums. M60's wore many different paint schemes, including variations of NATO 3-color. Avoid generic acrylic hobby paint. Use Vallejo, Tamiya, Testor, or other model paint that covers well and has good pigment. Do you have to use an airbrush or rattle can? Heck no! Brushing works just fine. And no- real tanks don't have contrasty panel lines. You absolutely don't have to do dark pin washes or any special techniques to make it look like a real tank. Put your effort into carefully adding dirt and mud to the tracks and paint. CARC paint is very hard to get sparkling clean- look at photos! Real tanks are dirty. Avoid rust and corrosion, though. Rust can look cool, but only on war-torn and trashed tanks; not any US M60 that was in active service. For mud and dirt, I suggest getting a weathering powder kit (like eye shadow) that can be wiped off and done again if you don't like the result.

Mods: This model does not need a ton of mods to make it look like the real deal. Maybe some rivet-counters will disagree, but to the average Joe, it will look like the real M60 with a little work. It does not take great modeling skill, tools, etc. to make this tank look great. Take your time, and add details as you notice them. The mantlet has holes in other for mounting a spot light. Rather than filling the holes with putty, I suggest covering the mantlet with painted fabric. You can also make an awesome upgrades using Rich Johnson's gun parts and spotlight- listed elsewhere on the thread.

Decals: Ditch the stock stickers. Don't even go there. Go with photos of the time period and place you want to model. If there are special unit designations you find in a photo, they can be made using a vinyl cutter.

Battery: This is the biggest negative for me. In stock config, you have to use the charge port to charge the battery. This means that you have to use the charger that came with the tank, and can't use a better charging system or swap batteries if you want to run the tank for an extended period. I moved the battery to the front of the tank, so that the main lead and balance plug can be accessed from the driver's hatch. I can use my digital fancy balance charger now, but still limited to run-then-charge. The best way to overcome this challenge is to make a hatch at the aft of the tank so the battery can be swapped, but that requires some intensive work.

Radio: Sigh. Big negative. Love the sound that Tongde gave it. Totally cool diesel melody. Alas, the range sucked bad. Really bad. Like 25 feet bad. I swapped it out for a Heng Long 7.0, and no problems at 80 feet. It was an easy swap, but I lost the cool sound patch and had extra cash invested on an already pricey model. The Heng Long sound is...disappointing.

In conclusion, this tank rocks! I roll across my weed-ridden yard and dirt patches with ease. In operation, it looks very realistic. This is the only model I have that has not had ANY track issues. It can climb a 4-inch concrete curb, and roll through 4-inch tall grass without popping a track off the sprocket. The nylon tracks defy my expectations of durability. If you are an armor enthusiast, you should add this task to your collection.

[Rubicon99]

Okay- I know this thread is in a coma, but this post might be helpful for those considering buying the Tongde M60. I have many tanks and run them regularly. Over the past year, the Tongde M60 has become my favorite tank. Yes, favorite, to the point that I weep at the thought that there are M60's serving as artificial reefs in the ocean. Who thought that was a good idea? SIGH.

Overall: It's very close to being a great model. If you are into tank modeling or tank history, BUY THIS TANK! A little work goes a long way. The M60 is an iconic tank, and a must for any armor collection. Yes- a bit pricey compared to Heng Long offerings. But, DO IT! It's an M60! (HEY TONGDE! LOWER YOUR PRICES!)

Drivetrain: Don't get the nylon gear boxes unless you plan on running it indoors on smooth floors. Get the steel gearboxes. They are excellent. The nylon are widely reported as being fragile.

Tracks: This is where I get flamed. The metal tracks suck. Yes. SUCKY!

Metal gearboxes? Yes. Metal wheels and drive sprockets? Yes.

NO on the metal tracks. They add a ton of weight, wear and tear on the drivetrain, and reduce battery time. Suck in grass. Bind, drag, and grind. The nylon tracks are very durable, LOOK BETTER, and are kind to the drive mechanisms. I run my tank in dirt and tall grass, and the nylon is the way to go. Metal tracks are a waste on this model, IMHO. The suspension works great without the added weight of heavy pot-metal tracks. Kinda ironic, but nylon are more durable than the metal tracks. Go fig.

Paint: You will need to paint this model to make it excellent. But, that's fun! Dig into the internet to find the paint scheme that suits you. Go with actual photos and avoid the suggestions on modeling forums. M60's wore many different paint schemes, including variations of NATO 3-color. Avoid generic acrylic hobby paint. Use Vallejo, Tamiya, Testor, or other model paint that covers well and has good pigment. Do you have to use an airbrush or rattle can? Heck no! Brushing works just fine. And no- real tanks don't have contrasty panel lines. You absolutely don't have to do dark pin washes or any special techniques to make it look like a real tank. Put your effort into carefully adding dirt and mud to the tracks and paint. CARC paint is very hard to get sparkling clean- look at photos! Real tanks are dirty. Avoid rust and corrosion, though. Rust can look cool, but only on war-torn and trashed tanks; not any US M60 that was in active service. For mud and dirt, I suggest getting a weathering powder kit (like eye shadow) that can be wiped off and done again if you don't like the result.

Mods: This model does not need a ton of mods to make it look like the real deal. Maybe some rivet-counters will disagree, but to the average Joe, it will look like the real M60 with a little work. It does not take great modeling skill, tools, etc. to make this tank look great. Take your time, and add details as you notice them. The mantlet has holes in other for mounting a spot light. Rather than filling the holes with putty, I suggest covering the mantlet with painted fabric. You can also make an awesome upgrades using Rich Johnson's gun parts and spotlight- listed elsewhere on the thread.

Decals: Ditch the stock stickers. Don't even go there. Go with photos of the time period and place you want to model. If there are special unit designations you find in a photo, they can be made using a vinyl cutter.

Battery: This is the biggest negative for me. In stock config, you have to use the charge port to charge the battery. This means that you have to use the charger that came with the tank, and can't use a better charging system or swap batteries if you want to run the tank for an extended period. I moved the battery to the front of the tank, so that the main lead and balance plug can be accessed from the driver's hatch. I can use my digital fancy balance charger now, but still limited to run-then-charge. The best way to overcome this challenge is to make a hatch at the aft of the tank so the battery can be swapped, but that requires some intensive work.

Radio: Sigh. Big negative. Love the sound that Tongde gave it. Totally cool diesel melody. Alas, the range sucked bad. Really bad. Like 25 feet bad. I swapped it out for a Heng Long 7.0, and no problems at 80 feet. It was an easy swap, but I lost the cool sound patch and had extra cash invested on an already pricey model. The Heng Long sound is...disappointing.

In conclusion, this tank rocks! I roll across my weed-ridden yard and dirt patches with ease. In operation, it looks very realistic. This is the only model I have that has not had ANY track issues. It can climb a 4-inch concrete curb, and roll through 4-inch tall grass without popping a track off the sprocket. The nylon tracks defy my expectations of durability. If you are an armor enthusiast, you should add this task to your collection.

Yes the M60 with metal gearboxes is a good running tank with nearly endless options for paint themes and kitting out with crew accessories.

Personally I own several of them now. All very different from each other. The only common upgrade between them are new control systems, servo recoils, improved "faster" turret rotation units and upgraded more correct 105mm cannons.

To date myself and a few others have run our M60 over and trough many different types of terrain and the only terrain it has issues with is mud. But then no 1/16 RC tank does well in mud.

[MaverickTank]

Your tanks are epic, Rubicon!


Another thing that others may be interested in. I unload the stress on the torsion bar suspension when I store my tanks by resting them on top of a paperback book or two. Twisting repeatedly while running has the greatest affect on the torsion bar, no doubt, but continual loading also affects the bars. I figure, the tank spends most of its time in storage and relieving the stress on these components will help extend the lifespan of the torsion bars. Why not?

[Rubicon99]

Your tanks are epic, Rubicon!


Another thing that others may be interested in. I unload the stress on the torsion bar suspension when I store my tanks by resting them on top of a paperback book or two. Twisting repeatedly while running has the greatest affect on the torsion bar, no doubt, but continual loading also affects the bars. I figure, the tank spends most of its time in storage and relieving the stress on these components will help extend the lifespan of the torsion bars. Why not?

That was a problem with the old Tamiya "flat metal strip" type torsion springs as used in the King Tiger and Leopard 1 along with a few others. The round torsion bars used on the M60 are much more resilient. If after a few years they do start to take a "seat" it is very easy to re-torque them. So far none of mine have moved even in the slightest, but the M60 has only been around a few years so jury is still out. If out of caution you want to take some load off the bars then by all mean do so.

I will probably end up breaking and replacing mine long before they start to weaken. I just drive my M60s to much and to damn hard.

[RichJohnson]

That’sis a good observation that you’ve pointed out on all those issues Maverick. Rubicon and I have actually come up with fixes , solutions and modifications for most of the issues you pointed out.
I produce a lot of detail upgrade parts, including scale, gun barrels of both the M60a1 and m60a3 Types with servo, recoil, and spotlights among other parts.
and you’re complaining about metal tracks is absolutely true, which is why I stock OEM factory Tongde plastic M 60 tracks both Chevron and hexagon type because the tanks run 1000% better with them and they’re quite durable for plastic tracks. They’re much better than hang long .They’re just about Tamiya quality.
Check out my website to see the parts that I make the detail out M 60s

http://www.richardsjohnson.net/id28.html

for the battery compartment, Rubicon came up with a really nice little adaption where you glue metal angle brackets for a shelf inside the rear to the top deck and then glue two magnets to the rear panel and that holds the rear panel on then you just open the rear panel unplug your battery charge it and plug it back in and you can use a large, larger, nickel, metal hydride or whatever battery that you wanna have in the tank, you don’t have to use the stock tiny little lithium ion battery.

You are very correct these are excellent running tanks and very fun to drive. I know Rubicon has about six or seven of them and I have four in current operation two still in the box that are being modified and I’ve built a handful for customers and implied my various paint jobs to them so I’ve got a lot of miles on these M 60 tanks, my favorite is my slick 60 my early 1960 round M 60 that I built up. I’ve literally driven it to death and it’s about time to go through it and do some service. I’ve got a couple of videos on YouTube for some quick fixes and other little things that these tanks need , you could check them out just google 1/16 and 60 and they’ll show up on YouTube
.

[MaverickTank]

I have a set of your plastic track and they rock.

Fantastic that you make parts for these tanks and I hope that you are rewarded for your efforts by ample orders. Maybe you could get Motion RC to list your products.

[RichJohnson]

Thank you for the kind words on my products.
I don’t think Im, big enough for motion to take notice let alone to order and stock my parts. My supplies are cottage industry hobby support type and it’s better that I get to deal directly with customers for support etc. Besides I have met a great group of people from all over the world doing this. Many I stay in contact with regularly and communicate as friends over the hobby rather than just customers.