Originally posted by MaverickTank
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Official Tongde US M60A3 1/16 Scale Battle Tank Discussion Thread
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Since I have done a lot of texture over 3D printed parts, I can say that 3M Red or Bondo spot putty will stick just fine to the 3D printed parts. I apply it and once sanded down a little it gives you very nice texture to simulate casting. It can also be thinned with acetone and applied with a paintbrush to fill in layer lines. Acetone and wood filler also works for filling layer lines. With either method it may take multiple coats to acheive the desired affect.Originally posted by SoCalBobS View Posttdriver, have you tried the AK Easy Cast on any 3Dprinted surfaces? I'm thinking of having a Super Pershing turret made, and a "cast" texture would be preferable to the usual fine line surface.
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Will do. Thank you!Originally posted by Rubicon99 View Post
Yes that does happen where the track does not disengage the sprockets. Two things, one check your track retention it may need to be a notch tighter. The second is to increase the torque on the torsion bars for the last road wheel.
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I used it on a Sherman turret before. It's easy to work with. Have not tried anything 3D printed yet.Originally posted by SoCalBobS View Posttdriver, have you tried the AK Easy Cast on any 3Dprinted surfaces? I'm thinking of having a Super Pershing turret made, and a "cast" texture would be preferable to the usual fine line surface.
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Yes DKLM RC has a detailing kit for the TD M60 which includes a completely new rear exhaust grill/panel. It's not listed on their web site as a stand alone detailing kit, you have to email them and ask for the kit separately.Originally posted by AFT-CAP21 View Post
Shown below on my M60A2. The lower "box" on the grill panel is specifically an A2 part attached to the grill. The grill does not come with the A2 part attached.
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Well, the tank went from glitching at 20 feet to shutting down altogether. In case anyone else has an issue, here is what happened:
The transmitter inputs would be delayed by several seconds. Sometimes, the tank would receive a transmitter signal and continue the action for several seconds after input was halted. For instance, a nudge on the steering would cause the tank to spin, or a small turret turn would cause the turret to spin to its limit. This would happen at about 20' from the transmitter. If I walked toward the tank, the problems would subside.
Now, the tank shuts down at random intervals and all of the radio settings are reset. And no- not a battery issue.
I am going to replace the control module with a Heng Long 7.0 and use one of the many HL radios I have stashed.
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The TD radio systems while appear the same as HL are really just toys and not the same qualityRC tank parts and accessories I make
www.RichardSJohnson.net/id28.html
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I had the same intermittent connection problem. I switched to a Heng Long 7.1 system with the Leopard 2A6 diesel sound and I think it's a good sound compromise. I also upgraded the speaker to an aftermarket one which made a big difference.Originally posted by MaverickTank View PostLove the tank model. The transmitter for mine is just awful though. I have had continuous connection issues at 20 feet. The diesel sound is awesome, and I will be sad to lose it when I switch to the Heng Long 7.0 receiver.
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I installed plastic tracks on the M60, and so far I like them better than the metal tracks.
The tank itself is heavy enough to roll well on the suspension without the weight of the tracks. I expect my battery times to increase with removing all that weight.
The new tracks were so tight that they compressed the first and last road wheel, so I added a link to each side. The pins are easy to remove- so easy that I worry about them walking out. One of the pins on my metal tracks walked out.
Adding one link appeared to be the perfect tension, but I saw that the track was buckling in reverse turns and the idler wheel was not always turning; the track sliding across it. So, I popped the top off the tank and adjusted the tensioners two notches. The nut that Tongde used puts stress on a relatively small area of plastic, so I added a wide washer to each side. This will also keep the nut from cutting into the plastic. I can see how the hull would get damaged over time by the tensioner nut.
I was surprised by how bowed the hull top is! I had to put the front screws in first, then clamp down on the rear half to make sure the screw holes were aligned. There is no way I could use magnets.
So far, so good. I agree with the others on this thread that the plastic tracks + metal gearboxes are the way to go.
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The M26 Pershing, M48 Patton and M60 Patton are all post WW2 US Army MBT that share many design heritage. M60 is the most mature design and my favorite.Originally posted by samuellindsey View PostIf you had a choice between an m-26 or m-60. Model which would you choose
At the 1/16 scale, I have a 2005 Heng Long Snow Leopard and a 2023 Tongde Patton. Both are very good running RC tanks.
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Both are relatively even with plus and minuses. The M60 "metal" edition has a better suspension (real torsion bars) and has full bearing through including the gearboxes. The M60 can be turned into a better model with more functionality (servo elevation and servo recoil) easier then the M26 Pershing.Originally posted by samuellindsey View PostSo between the hens long m26 professional or the tonged m-60 professional model which would be a better model
Both need aftermarket detailing and new paint to look decent.
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