Rescued Abrams build

Collapse
X
Collapse
First Prev Next Last
 
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Handy Lance
    replied
    One front apron done. So much better!!!
    clamped in tight so no glue binds to fail. They are strong. Used old aprons as clamps. Screws are tiny screws for RC crawler rim rings. Locked up RC has lots to choose from. Another cool feature, they are steel so rust will naturally develop on the ends.

    Final mockup of chassis.

    First Hull details!!! It will have so much to look at! New fuel filler handles. Almost had doors open, but effort to detail equation didn’t add up. New handles will paint so much better and leave shadows the molded ones wouldn’t have.

    cheers

    Leave a comment:


  • Handy Lance
    replied
    Primed chassis and polished removable cross braces.

    Hope you had a good weekend too!

    Leave a comment:


  • Handy Lance
    replied
    Originally posted by Meter Rat
    Love this build. If I may? I will be nicking some ideas from you, when I rebuild my Abrams. However would you please make your pictures bigger. My ageing eyes are struggling to see what you are doing.
    Ha cool
    yeah go for it! I’m posting to share, and keep myself motivated as I do ALOT of stuff. You should be able to click on the picture to open it and make it bigger. If not I’ll try to upload larger.

    Here is the last shot before I prime the chassis .
    Black is 1/8 (welded to tops of wheel screw arches and sides of chassis) abs, white is 1/16. I can not describe the difference in strength , yeah more weight, but down low.
    cutouts are for air flow around the 7.1. I will be doing a push pull fan system to keep this nice and cool. I have found that is key to electronics longevity.

    side rails are attached with E6000 a rigid bond will fail between abs and aluminum in this application, so I went with E6000, cross rails will be screwed in aka removable.
    Attached Files

    Leave a comment:


  • Meter Rat
    replied
    Love this build. If I may? I will be nicking some ideas from you, when I rebuild my Abrams. However would you please make your pictures bigger. My ageing eyes are struggling to see what you are doing.

    Leave a comment:


  • Handy Lance
    replied
    Lowered the smoke unit to clear my lower chassis brace. The additional attachment point on the smoke fluid tank came in handy. My 7.1 showed up in the mail along with more scale goodies!! Got some weathering ahead captain!

    Thanks for watching

    Leave a comment:


  • Handy Lance
    replied
    Transmission mounts are in! So tight, countersunk perfect. The added sleeves helped a ton. Got the bottom plate mocked up and chassis braces started.
    I installed a 1/8 steel rod through the center of my idler setup. No rotation if tightened now for sure. Thanks for the warning Rubicon99. Heads up like that are why I’m here.

    Leave a comment:


  • Handy Lance
    replied
    Originally posted by Rubicon99

    Just a heads up on you idler design. Similar designs have been attempted and all had the same flaw. The "grub screws" on large long tanks like the Abrams and running metal tracks with rubber pads like you have shown prior, when under torque of turning the screw can not hold the round shafts in place very long and the shaft start turning causing the idler wheel to loose proper tension.

    Did you add "flat spots" to the shafts to give something for the "grub screws" to hold onto? If not, you might want to consider adding them.

    they have been switched to m3 and m4 cap head into brass inserts , they leave considerable dents into the tube. I’ve also added epoxy “gussets” , it does not spin. It’ll tighten really tight. I may run a screw all the way through the center as insurance 👍🏻

    Leave a comment:


  • Rubicon99
    replied
    Originally posted by Handy Lance
    Upgraded the idler wheel setup. Now each tensioner is connected into a threaded aluminum tube connecting the whole system Some additional supporting comes from the black anti torque support welded in tight, containing two grub screws to hold the tube nice and tight. Much stronger. I’m having a good time.
    Just a heads up on you idler design. Similar designs have been attempted and all had the same flaw. The "grub screws" on large long tanks like the Abrams and running metal tracks with rubber pads like you have shown prior, when under torque of turning the screw can not hold the round shafts in place very long and the shaft start turning causing the idler wheel to loose proper tension.

    Did you add "flat spots" to the shafts to give something for the "grub screws" to hold onto? If not, you might want to consider adding them.

    Leave a comment:


  • Handy Lance
    replied
    Awesomeness showed up in the mail today! I am a DIY from head to toe. I usually make what I need. Well I was really satisfied with my order from RichJohnson. It was epic. The antennas have a very cool feel. Awesome dampered spring won’t jiggle around. The recoil is perfect too.
    Thanks everyone for infecting my tank disease🤣🏴‍☠️👍🏻

    ps there was a cool bonus in the package but I’m not telling till it’s finished. Thanks Rich

    Leave a comment:


  • Handy Lance
    replied
    Upgraded the idler wheel setup. Now each tensioner is connected into a threaded aluminum tube connecting the whole system Some additional supporting comes from the black anti torque support welded in tight, containing two grub screws to hold the tube nice and tight. Much stronger. I’m having a good time.

    Leave a comment:


  • Handy Lance
    replied
    Click image for larger version  Name:	image.jpg Views:	0 Size:	92.9 KB ID:	399289 Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_4544.jpg Views:	0 Size:	77.7 KB ID:	399288 Click image for larger version  Name:	image.jpg Views:	0 Size:	66.6 KB ID:	399287 UHMW tape to act as a skid under the chassis. It will be awesome. In one pic there’s a test piece I gouged HARD with scissors, no damage to hull. Added benefit of being incredibly slippery. Should be a great mod for anyone who runs plastic hulls hard. Tape is clear so paint will come through. Sticks nice. Will definitely offer up protection to hits that would be catastrophic to the abs hull.
    Battery box delete went smooth. It’ll paint up nice. It’s strong, better than new for sure. It’ll hold the entire tank👍🏻

    Leave a comment:


  • keilau
    replied
    Originally posted by Handy Lance
    Upgraded transmission mounts on left (black in pic) .“Plan”is to drill down through mounts/hull and put screws up into tranny from bottom. Mounts grew from 6mm to 12mm thanks to 3d printed sleeves. Super beefy! Poor looking but highly functional hull patch. I used the old battery box (chopped up) as a patch. All ABS 3d prints weld to the ABS hull very well I use a q-tip dipped in acetone, wipe down both abs pieces, add a bit of pressure and wait. I will put a platform on 5-10mm standoffs, over the patch (to mount stuffs). 🤣👍🏻 no one will ever know how it looks.
    I have done something very similar to my 18 years old Heng Long Pershing. I drilled through the gearbox mounting poles to use bolts and nuts for the gearbox. I did not use any ABS sleeve. The original poles became locators of the mounting bolts. The idea is to transfer the gearbox loads from the filmy mounting poles to the chassis bottom.

    I did this when I changed the Heng Xin gearbox to a Torro Series 2 gearbox. The change allowed me to use 390 motors on the Pershing.
    Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_5300.jpg
Views:	302
Size:	28.3 KB
ID:	399263'
    Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_4999.jpg
Views:	386
Size:	216.7 KB
ID:	399260 Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_5123.jpg
Views:	359
Size:	143.3 KB
ID:	399262 Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_5130.jpg
Views:	327
Size:	192.5 KB
ID:	399261

    Leave a comment:


  • Handy Lance
    replied
    Originally posted by Max-U52
    I've done the same thing on some of my tanks, only I used 1/4 inch brass tubing. Just cut a slot with a hacksaw or dremel and slip the tube over the post and wick some superglue down the sides. It will be interesting to see how the plastic sleeves hold up, so do keep us posted. Did you print those solid, with zero infill? Did you use PLA or ABS for the sleeves?
    Printed solid, these are ABS the hull is ABS too. They become one with the chassis with acetone (think weld not glue) . The strength improves tremendously with these, as the available hull plastic to support the mounts is effectively doubled.

    Leave a comment:


  • Max-U52
    replied
    I've done the same thing on some of my tanks, only I used 1/4 inch brass tubing. Just cut a slot with a hacksaw or dremel and slip the tube over the post and wick some superglue down the sides. It will be interesting to see how the plastic sleeves hold up, so do keep us posted. Did you print those solid, with zero infill? Did you use PLA or ABS for the sleeves?

    Leave a comment:


  • Handy Lance
    replied
    Upgraded transmission mounts on left (black in pic) .“Plan”is to drill down through mounts/hull and put screws up into tranny from bottom. Mounts grew from 6mm to 12mm thanks to 3d printed sleeves. Super beefy! Poor looking but highly functional hull patch. I used the old battery box (chopped up) as a patch. All ABS 3d prints weld to the ABS hull very well I use a q-tip dipped in acetone, wipe down both abs pieces, add a bit of pressure and wait. I will put a platform on 5-10mm standoffs, over the patch (to mount stuffs). 🤣👍🏻 no one will ever know how it looks.
    Attached Files

    Leave a comment:


  • Handy Lance
    replied
    Torsion bar Spring direction is important. If they’re accidentally installed on the wrong side, you end up with about 20° extra preload. I added a hole at 12 o’clock that should give me the scale results Im looking for.

    Leave a comment:


  • Handy Lance
    replied
    But will it float?
    New transmissions are mocked up. I was not aware I would have to fabricate my own mounting solution. Be warned. While the hole from the battery box was cut open in the chassis, I took a pic from a view we don’t see much. I will be adding 3-D printed mount, strengtheners (black washers around posts) They will extend all the way up the mounting posts. Picture is prototyping so I didn’t need to waste much filament. They are made of ABS too, so when I glue them with the acetone slurry, it will all become one piece.
    Attached Files

    Leave a comment:


  • Handy Lance
    replied
    Just photos for reference.
    Attached Files

    Leave a comment:


  • Handy Lance
    replied
    Installed metal axle carriers. Slowly used a step bit, worked perfectly. Carriers pressed in tight. I can use a 1/4 ratchet extension as a perfect alignment tool!!! Fits amazingly well. Should have perfect alignment. The shavings will be saved to make a slurry with acetone. I’ll use it for lots of glueing, reinforcement, details.
    Attached Files
    Last edited by Handy Lance; Mar 18, 2024, 05:51 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • RichJohnson
    replied
    All of the M60a3 tanks I have seen on posts set up as monuments have the traction sand applied on the glacis with paint. Man you would never want to skin a knee on that stuff it is very course.

    Leave a comment:

Working...