How can I make my Abrams faster?

[Woohoo\o/]

I have been digging and the only upgrade for a bit more torque/speed are the 390 red motors which I have already done to the Abrams. Yes it’s definitely a bit faster but not “Abrams” faster. I’m not trying to move into rc car territory in speed but if I can get it 20% more faster than just the 390 motors I will be happy. I’m not doing any ir battles just simply enjoying some fun with my Abrams.

I’ve read where some have even ran 3s with the 7.0 MFU and 390 motors with success. They’ve added heat sinks and cooling fans to both the motors and MFU.

Has anyone here on the squawk tried 3s? Or any other method on making an MBT faster?

fwiw I have the professional version Abrams. Happy 4th guys!!

[Meter Rat]

For a scale top speed for the Abram, Challenger, Leopard, you should be aiming for an actual speed of about 18kmh across the ground. They all have a top speed of about 60kmh, on road. I run red motors, and very occasionally with a 3S in my Challenger. Be aware, although the board and motors will run on 11.1v things like the LEDs will fail with regular monotony. Even with this set up, I only managed 11kph, close enough me. Even then it can all go out of control very quickly, but the Challenger will spin up its tracks and slide on ice.

[Woohoo\o/]

For a scale top speed for the Abram, Challenger, Leopard, you should be aiming for an actual speed of about 18kmh across the ground. They all have a top speed of about 60kmh, on road. I run red motors, and very occasionally with a 3S in my Challenger. Be aware, although the board and motors will run on 11.1v things like the LEDs will fail with regular monotony. Even with this set up, I only managed 11kph, close enough me. Even then it can all go out of control very quickly, but the Challenger will spin up its tracks and slide on ice.

I plan to disconnect the smoke and lights when (if) I run 3s. What about the turret motor and elevation? Would they burn up too?

additionally, would the mato tracks with rubber pads help from sliding around?

[keilau]

I have been digging and the only upgrade for a bit more torque/speed are the 390 red motors which I have already done to the Abrams. Yes it’s definitely a bit faster but not “Abrams” faster. I’m not trying to move into rc car territory in speed but if I can get it 20% more faster than just the 390 motors I will be happy. I’m not doing any ir battles just simply enjoying some fun with my Abrams.

I’ve read where some have even ran 3s with the 7.0 MFU and 390 motors with success. They’ve added heat sinks and cooling fans to both the motors and MFU.

Has anyone here on the squawk tried 3s? Or any other method on making an MBT faster?

fwiw I have the professional version Abrams. Happy 4th guys!!

Many of the questions you have about Heng Long tank motors were discussed in this long thread where you can find some of my 380/390 motor heat up test data.

https://www.hobbysquawk.com/forum/rc-cars-tanks-trucks-and-more/rc-tanks/236451-red-or-blue-motors

The 390 is NOT an official Mabuchi motor specification. It is supposed to be an elongated 380 with builtin cooling fan running at 25000 rpm. But the actual performance is all over the place. I have good experience with the Mxfans 390 which I purchased 3 years ago. All 4 samples run at about 30000rpm when powered by Lithium Ion battery at 8 volts. Its current performance may be different and you will have to do some adaptation work yourself.

https://www.amazon.com/Alomejor-Universal-Brushed-Torque-Electric/dp/B0BXQ5HNN7/ref=sr_1_4_sspa?crid=SBQU3C734X1I&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.zxFqpUPIeIqBYTkfwuoRwPlwyMiA2H8l3K8cCEfj-lI.9u3Xt1Mot7CJAfJU3ayN39RgBE0ETVYuCbQi5FhiwWQ&dib_tag=se&keywords=Mxfans+390&qid=1751727682&sprefix=mxfans+390%2Caps%2C112&sr=8-4-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9tdGY&psc=1

[Meter Rat]

I plan to disconnect the smoke and lights when (if) I run 3s. What about the turret motor and elevation? Would they burn up too?

additionally, would the mato tracks with rubber pads help from sliding around?

Turret motor and elevation units have both been fine. The tracks on my Challenger and Abrams both have the simulated rubber pads, which are quite a hard type of plastic, which does not grip well. This is both a help and a hindrance depending on the surface the tank is running on, especially when turning. This is just my experience, others may have different opinions.

[Woohoo\o/]

What about just increasing the pinion teeth on the red motors? From what I understand the motors are fixed mounted to allow just that pinion. I can however address that to allow say, a 12 tooth pinion as opposed to the stock 10 tooth (I think). I may just go this route and add cooling fans to the motors and the MFU (if needed). Does this seem reasonable?

[Woohoo\o/]

Had a chat with ChatGPT and I must say that thing is pretty impressive although I rather consult with commanders with experience. I asked how can I achieve 5 mph with my heng long Abrams tank running the 7.0 MFU. Here’s what ChatGPT said:






🔥 The Red 390s Help You Get There Because:

• They’re hotter wound than stock motors = more RPM
• 9.6V gives them more voltage headroom without cooking the MFU
• You’ve already got the metal drivetrain, which can handle the extra torque

🛡 Safety Tips:

• Disconnect or remove the smoke unit completely
• Keep an eye on motor and MFU temps after longer runs (just do the touch test)
• Use high-quality 9.6V NiMH (8-cell flat or brick pack, ideally with Deans/XT60)

Yes — red 390s + 9.6V = ~5 mph is totally achievable.


Will a 9.6v cook my MFU?

[Rubicon99]

Had a chat with ChatGPT and I must say that thing is pretty impressive although I rather consult with commanders with experience. I asked how can I achieve 5 mph with my heng long Abrams tank running the 7.0 MFU. Here’s what ChatGPT said:






🔥 The Red 390s Help You Get There Because:

• They’re hotter wound than stock motors = more RPM
• 9.6V gives them more voltage headroom without cooking the MFU
• You’ve already got the metal drivetrain, which can handle the extra torque

🛡 Safety Tips:

• Disconnect or remove the smoke unit completely
• Keep an eye on motor and MFU temps after longer runs (just do the touch test)
• Use high-quality 9.6V NiMH (8-cell flat or brick pack, ideally with Deans/XT60)

Yes — red 390s + 9.6V = ~5 mph is totally achievable.


Will a 9.6v cook my MFU?

Most of the information you got from Chat is from my years of posting on the subject here and on other forums. The problem is the newer HL 7.0 and 7.1 control systems do not like to run on 9.6 volts like the older 5.2/5.3/6.0/6.1 systems did. It's not that it "overheats them it that the 7 series MFU doesn't like the fluctuations in voltage of the 9.6 NiMH. The system was designed around Li Ion battery usage and thinks it is a Li Ion or Lipo having issues and to protect itself shuts down. With the 7 series you need to run a 3S battery and the system set to low power (70% of maximum battery voltage) to keep from overheating the motors to achieve high speeds. Sure you can run it on high power for a short period and it will be crazy fast but you will overheat your motor really fast regardless of cool fins or fans or a combination of both. Trust me I have melted a few hulls and burned up a dozen motor running at 11.1v (12.6v at peak output).

Here is what Chat will not tell you. Speed is not just motors and voltage when it comes to modern HL tanks like the Abrams, Leopard or Challenger.

Track type and tank weight play a more important role.

A light tank does not equal a fast tank as it tends to be very "bouncy" and thus "squirrelly" to control. This mean it is harder to drive in a straight line or correct its course when at high speed. A heavy tank tends to not "bounce" as much and is able to put more "power" to the ground as they tend to have less track "slippage". The weight enhances the track grip and thus the tank is not as "squirrelly". In short a heavier tank is smoother driving and needs less correction or driver input. Smooth is fast.

Tracks play a role that is often overlooked and to achieve the very maximum speed performance possible should not be dismissed. HL tracks for the "modern" tanks like the Abrams and Leopard are single pin adaptations of the real tanks dual pin design. The HL tracks need to be replaced with quality aftermarket dual pin tracks like those offered by DKLMRC, Toucan, Mato or Tamiya. These tracks run smoother as they have greater "flexibility" for absorption of terrain imperfections and better track to sprocket fitment which reduces overall stress on the drive components.

Ok now for the P.S. section.
If you really want super fast crazy speed replace the HL gearboxes with a DKLMRC "dual current" drive gearbox. These use a larger 500 class motor arrangement and on a 7.2v NiMH battery with match a the speed of a 3S Li Ion battery at full power driving 390 motors of HL gearboxes. Drop in a 3S battery with proper weighted tank and proper tracks into the mix with the "dual current" drive and you are at 1/10 RC truck speeds. All while using the basic 7.0 system. Although I would recommend upgrading to the 7.1 for longevity.

[Woohoo\o/]

This is excellent information sir. Thank you. I will most definitely grab a dual current gearbox. But for the meantime how does one reduce power to 70%?

also just to clarify is this what you’re talking about? And unfortunately they can’t ship to the states due to tarrifs etc. however I can directly contact them to setup shipment.

https://www.dklmrc.com/product/dk-fmpdsgb

[Rubicon99]

This is excellent information sir. Thank you. I will most definitely grab a dual current gearbox. But for the meantime how does one reduce power to 70%?

also just to clarify is this what you’re talking about? And unfortunately they can’t ship to the states due to tarrifs etc. however I can directly contact them to setup shipment.

https://www.dklmrc.com/product/dk-fmpdsgb

Yep that's the gearbox. DKLM calls it something different but it's a "dual current" drive. I have several they are great. Get the "high speed" version its the best all round gear ratio in that gearbox for modern tanks.

Here is one of mine installed in an M60. (Not being used for speed).

[Woohoo\o/]

Correct me if I’m wrong. In order to lower the power to 70% I have to hold G and right stick down?

[Rubicon99]

Correct me if I’m wrong. In order to lower the power to 70% I have to hold G and right stick down?

Yes

[RichJohnson]

Correct me if I’m wrong. In order to lower the power to 70% I have to hold G and right stick down?

It’s best to find the instructions sheet and print it out incase you accidentally change configuration or it will drive you mad. My son occasionally puts his tank into a different mode by accident and I have to reset it.

[Woohoo\o/]

Absolutely. Thanks

[Woohoo\o/]

Well I replaced the motors with red 390’s and also dropped in a 3s 2200 lipo. It runs pretty good. Motors barely get warm and the MFU does not get hot at all. Nothing gets hot. I ran it HARD in my backyard and my local flying field in a south Florida 95+ degree weather for 2 packs. Motors only get warm like any other brushed motor on an rc car. Not warm enough to melt butter quickly. Impressive. Just like to extend a thanks to all who piped in. Here’s a video. Also, I’m not fond of making a tank go fast. This is only for cinematic purposes. I slow the video down so it has its high speed reactions but a bit more slower. If that makes any sense. Other than videos I reduce power using “G right stick”

https://youtu.be/GAn2RgQPlkE?si=wX_VdU1ooolH8iOm

[Rubicon99]

Well I replaced the motors with red 390’s and also dropped in a 3s 2200 lipo. It runs pretty good. Motors barely get warm and the MFU does not get hot at all. Nothing gets hot. I ran it HARD in my backyard and my local flying field in a south Florida 95+ degree weather for 2 packs. Motors only get warm like any other brushed motor on an rc car. Not warm enough to melt butter quickly. Impressive. Just like to extend a thanks to all who piped in. Here’s a video. Also, I’m not fond of making a tank go fast. This is only for cinematic purposes. I slow the video down so it has its high speed reactions but a bit more slower. If that makes any sense. Other than videos I reduce power using “G right stick”

https://youtu.be/GAn2RgQPlkE?si=wX_VdU1ooolH8iOm

Running a 3s on high power with red 390 motors should be screaming fast. Now if you still want faster swap in a set of Taigen black 390 motors. They have even higher peak RPMs but the trade off is slight less torque.

The next level is completely new transmission from DRLM RC. Run on a 3s it's the only thing short of brushless that can even come close to matching the speed of a stock Tamiya Abrams, unless the Tamiya is also using a 3s. Talk about crazy ridiculously fast.

[keilau]

Modern MBT are designed to be MBT, not as race car. The M1A2 Abrams tank has a governed top speed of 42 mph (67.6 km/h) on paved surfaces. When operating cross-country, the top speed is around 30 mph (48 km/h). These are very fast speed for a 70 tons mass of a tracked vehicle. A HL steel gearbox or equivalent with a 390 motor will simulate Abrams' highway top speed. To simulate battlefield rough terrain, you need a heavy tank with matched suspension. The goal is to have the track stick to the terrain with the road wheels bounce up and down accordingly.

I am talking about modeling realistic MBT action. The requirement of an IR battel day RC tank may not be the same.

[Rubicon99]

Modern MBT are designed to be MBT, not as race car. The M1A2 Abrams tank has a governed top speed of 42 mph (67.6 km/h) on paved surfaces. When operating cross-country, the top speed is around 30 mph (48 km/h). These are very fast speed for a 70 tons mass of a tracked vehicle. A HL steel gearbox or equivalent with a 390 motor will simulate Abrams' highway top speed. To simulate battlefield rough terrain, you need a heavy tank with matched suspension. The goal is to have the track stick to the terrain with the road wheels bounce up and down accordingly.

I am talking about modeling realistic MBT action. The requirement of an IR battel day RC tank may not be the same.

He is doing it simply for fun of experimenting. I applaud him for that because in doing so he is learning a lot of skills that will later be useful when building more "realistic" speed tanks. Just because it can go fast does it mean one has to drive it fast. Many of my modern tanks have ridiculously fast top speeds, but are rarely ever driven fast. Hence my more commonly know online name "fsttanks". Just an interesting fact: An Abrams with the "governor" off can easily hit on road speeds in of 70mph range. This has been well documented. Doing so though does not hold well for the transmission over the long term.

Because you mentioned IR battling, it is actually best when tanks are driven on the slower end of the scale. It is better to be smooth and deliberate than fast and jerky. Smooth and deliberate scores hit after hit, fast and jerky miss more often than not. People forget IR beams are traveling at the speed of light so you can't move fast enough with a tank to get out of the way. All speed does is make it easier to crash into "things" and get stuck where you then become an easy target. Happens all the time....

[keilau]

He is doing it simply for fun of experimenting. I applaud him for that because in doing so he is learning a lot of skills that will later be useful when building more "realistic" speed tanks. Just because it can go fast does it mean one has to drive it fast. Many of my modern tanks have ridiculously fast top speeds, but are rarely ever driven fast. Hence my more commonly know online name "fsttanks". Just an interesting fact: An Abrams with the "governor" off can easily hit on road speeds in of 70mph range. This has been well documented. Doing so though does not hold well for the transmission over the long term.

Because you mentioned IR battling, it is actually best when tanks are driven on the slower end of the scale. It is better to be smooth and deliberate than fast and jerky. Smooth and deliberate scores hit after hit, fast and jerky miss more often than not. People forget IR beams are traveling at the speed of light so you can't move fast enough with a tank to get out of the way. All speed does is make it easier to crash into "things" and get stuck where you then become an easy target. Happens all the time....

The RC tank is our hobby. We do whatever we want for fun. I drive my tank on mowed lawn which is slightly slippery and the most unrealistic surface for RC tank driving. The first HL tank I had was a Tiger I around 2005. The motors were so weak that it only ran indoor, no lawn driving.

[Woohoo\o/]

Under normal circumstances I drive this tank at 70% power. But when filming for cinematics I run it at 100% power because it just looks better when 100 power is slowed down. I know it sounds silly and probably doesn’t make any sense but after much trial and error it just looks better in my humble opinion. And yes I’m learning a lot as I go. The Abrams isn’t my ir battle tank. That’s for my merkava which runs all stock except red 390 motors.

What can I do to make my tank waterproof?