It's out, mine arrived today. 
Only have done the two minute run test, all seems good so far.
Only have done the two minute run test, all seems good so far.
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The more screws it takes to reassemble a tank, the more likely it is you left something out! -
I chose the metal version for the drive train - gearboxes, tracks, roadwheels - to be more robust. Tan version since I will be doing my own Caunter camo scheme.
This is the pattern, apparently required in North Africa.
The colors seen vary widely, the light blue seen often isn't seemingly accurate. The actual colors are;
Silver Grey RAL 7001:
Slate Grey RAL 7016:
Over a base of British Light Stone RAL 61:
Due to the limitations of computer colors, even these don't look precisely like the actual paint. Actually, not even close!The more screws it takes to reassemble a tank, the more likely it is you left something out! -
I've been wanting to do the same scheme on my 3DP Matilda. Caunter info: https://www.keymilitary.com/article/hiding-plain-sight
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Two quick observations: first, the turret traverse cable plug was loose and stopped moving. I opened it up (four screws) and re-seated it and it works. Second, and this is a characteristic of the subject model, not the r/c product; the tracks pick up debris and some of it ends up in the hull interior, more so than a tank with exposed return rollers. I suspected it would be the case because of the enclosing side skirts. It'll require more frequent after event cleaning.
While it was open I replaced the unmarked generic battery with a 3500mah Admiral battery from MRC.The more screws it takes to reassemble a tank, the more likely it is you left something out!Comment
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Since I opened it, I took pics of the suspension. Complicated! Another reason to go metal. Imagine all those parts being plastic.
The more screws it takes to reassemble a tank, the more likely it is you left something out!Comment
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Can't say for sure at this point, but they don't freewheel like it has a bearing. They'd need 24 of them if so. There is a thrust bearing on the drive shaft to the sprocket. That's a new one.The more screws it takes to reassemble a tank, the more likely it is you left something out!Comment
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Okay, I'm tracking the turret motor issue some more. The turret began to not turn again, intermittently. I tried another TD board and the same symptom appeared. Someone on the RCTW forum was sharing something similar. I then tried a HL board and there was no failure (at least not yet).
The turret gearbox is not the standard one found in other TD and HL tanks. It is exposed, see attachment. I believe this was done because of the very limited interior space. One hypothesis is the gearing stalls the motor, only sometimes, which is why two boards acted the same. Anyway, I'll be running the HL board to see if the behavior repeats.
If others encounter this, let us all know. At some point I'll be contacting TD about it, and more detail always helps.The more screws it takes to reassemble a tank, the more likely it is you left something out!Comment
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That gear set up is closer to what Tamiya uses.Okay, I'm tracking the turret motor issue some more. The turret began to not turn again, intermittently. I tried another TD board and the same symptom appeared. Someone on the RCTW forum was sharing something similar. I then tried a HL board and there was no failure (at least not yet).
The turret gearbox is not the standard one found in other TD and HL tanks. It is exposed, see attachment. I believe this was done because of the very limited interior space. One hypothesis is the gearing stalls the motor, only sometimes, which is why two boards acted the same. Anyway, I'll be running the HL board to see if the behavior repeats.
If others encounter this, let us all know. At some point I'll be contacting TD about it, and more detail always helps.
Bob was your TD Tx in LP mode. In LP mode the TD unlike HL reduces the turret power by 30%. This could be why it was stalling.
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Hmm, possible. The Tx was however it was set up in China, although the issue showed up on two boards. I'll play with it some more.
EDIT: You could be right. Although I'd pulled out the TD board, I was able to plug in the turret motor into it on the bench. The motor sounded stronger, and I didn't get it to stall. I'll have to run it longer to be sure. If so, Tongde should be told, unless it's been done before.The more screws it takes to reassemble a tank, the more likely it is you left something out!Comment
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by any chance,
do we know when the ''Queen of the desert'' will be available from MotionRC?
cheers PZ LocoComment
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Hello,
i have the same problem with the turret, i follow the post if someone find solution or if i can help :)Comment
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Paint progress. The basic scheme is in place. Touch ups, small parts, decaling, detailing and weathering still to do. No sky blue on this one!
The more screws it takes to reassemble a tank, the more likely it is you left something out!Comment
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Really looks good!Comment
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It's amazing how a little paint can transform a model. Looks less toylike now that the factory paint is gone.Comment
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Okay, different light, different angles. Decals on, and a driver fitted. They still need their faces painted.
So, something to share: The tank's interior is not walled off from the tracks when they return. This results in a ton of debris being dumped inside. So much so that DKLM RC is devising a set of partitions to stop this. DM'ing him about availability. This is his photo. I experienced the same.
The more screws it takes to reassemble a tank, the more likely it is you left something out!Comment
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More progress;
Attached FilesThe more screws it takes to reassemble a tank, the more likely it is you left something out!Comment
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