Ok, just reread you post. You can’t have a linear throttle curve with the CC in governor mode, no. Spool up rate is set in the CC governor and you can’t manually control it with your Tx. Sounds like DCORSAIR is your man to help with setting up the CC for linear mode!
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Also Aces, I have one more thing to check, on your cascading tail rotor, did you make sure that both sets of blades are equal pitch, I had to grind a little on mine to get them to be equal in pitch, you can't have them fighting each other or have a set of blades with a little right pitch and one set with no pitch or some left input, just a thought, my tail took some tinkering and adjusting to get it right.Comment
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Thank you. Yes I currently have N-30%, Idle Up 1- 70% and Idle Up 2-100%. So if I make "N" - 00000, will that allow me a linear type spool up. Then when I get to around mid stick i can flip into Idle 1?
I have increased the rpms in each mode for now and will be going out on my lunch break to see if just increasing the rpm has an effect on the gyro.
I cant seem to find a place in the ikon setup for any adjustment of the tail gain settings? I will try to get ahold of customer support.Comment
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The spool up will be as fast as you set it in CC. Lower the value for a slower spool up. Nothing will happen until you flip into IU 1 but make sure you are at whatever stick position corresponds to “0” pitch on collective. For me, that’s 50% or mid stick.Comment
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Your collective stick has nothing to do with throttle in governor mode, except the bottom stick position affects autorotation bailout if you have that set up.Comment
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Aces, set your gyro gain to a VR switch on you Tx. Just find out which channel on your receiver is “gyro” then assign a slider switch to it. If you don’t, you will only be able to adjust the gyro gain in the Ikon setup menu.Comment
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Tail gain for the Ikon 2 BT is in the transmitter setup menu in the Wizard.Comment
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So you had this same issue when you started out with the Bavarian Demon and its still a problem with the Ikon2???Originally posted by Aces View PostComment
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Yes that's the unfortunate thing with the CC ESC using set RPM mode- you have to set all 3... so the IU0/N position has to be set as well, versus having it be a linear curve on IU0/N. When I was using it, I set IU0/N position at the lowest it would let me set, something like 1000 RPM, and set a throttle curve some thing 0-10-30-30-30.Comment
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I would try with the stock tail first... just to confirm/eliminate a potential mechanical issue.Originally posted by DCORSAIR View PostComment
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Thank you guys for all of this input. And hello sfcfury. Thanks. Unfortunately another problem, which i have had before, reared its ugly head today. I went out to the field on my lunch break to test the tail at a higher rpm and just before take off (thank GOD) the motor shaft broke!!
So the story with that is when I was having these tail problems initially (and yes with the bavarian demon) I ordered the tail upgrade gear to speed it up hoping that would help. It didnt. As you know that is a complete tear down of the frame. When I put it back together I had no reference for how tight to make the belt from the motor to the main gear. I did what I thought felt right. Spun it up on the table (with out blades of course) and the shaft snapped. So after scrounging for a shaft I installed it and made the belt much more loose. My dad was explaining that because it was a toothed belt and gear that the tension did not need to be as tight. So we set it to a tauntness that we both felt was almost too loose. I spun it up on the table and let it run a long time. And I have done a few test hovers still working on the tail issue. I am extremely glad it didnt happen in flight. But now I have to tear down and rebuild if I can find another shaft.
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Before I go ordering another shaft for this motor can i ask what motors you guys are using? Mine is the Align 800mx 520kv motor. Is this sufficient?Comment
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Well that is a bummer, why your heli is breaking shafts is kind of strange to me, not one but two you say, that motor should be fine to use, I'm using a Pyro 450kv in my Hughes 500 w/5blade head, Align 750mx 450kv in my OH-6 with a 4 blade head, Align 750mx 510kv in my Apache w/4blade head, and a Scorpion 560kv in the Cobra with two blade head, so your motor should be just fine I would think, unless there is something about that 800mx that makes it different?Originally posted by Aces View Post
I do have one question, when your doing this testing and you spool down, does the head keep on rotating freely or does the head come to a stop rather quickly?? I mean mine take awhile to slow down, I actually hit throttle hold and full collective to slow everything down so I don't have to wait so long for the blades to stop.Comment
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I'm running a Scorpion 4035-500Kv in my 800 size UH1D, and a Tengu 4525-515Kv in my 700 AH1 Cobra. I think you have plenty of power. Belt tension wise sounds like you were spot on this time- if you pick a spot on the belt halfway between the main gear and the motor pinion, you should be able to twist the belt at least a 1/4 to almost half a twist. I have mine just slightly more than a 1/4 twist.
I'm with DC... something in the drive train isn't right... like DC asked, how long do your blades spin after you kill power? Both of mine seem like at least a good 45 seconds if not longer before they come to a complete stop.
No metal shavings underneath the motor on the test bed?
Where on the shaft is it snapping? Above, below the pinion?Comment
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And you said the first time the motor shaft snapped it was from hand turning? That has to be some non spec motor shafts or something...Comment
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The blades spin very freely. It takes a good 30 seconds to 45 seconds to stop. The shaft snaps right at the base of the motor. And the first time it snapped it was also while running. Not turning by hand.
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Okay... so both times where under power when it broke... Man, I dont know... I don't have the engineering background to give good suggestions. I know when I first assembled the cobra (which was my first Roban), and I actually ran with the belt over tensioned; it caused the main gear to pull down ever so slightly and grind on the top of the tail drop down gears... never any sign of the motor shaft breaking.Originally posted by Aces View Post
The motor was brand new to you? Just seems like something has to be seizing up for the shaft to break.Comment
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Yeah strange one for sure, I know what I would do though, throw that motor in the trash and get me another brand of a motor and see what happens to it, two broken shafts on the same motor doing the same testing tells me something is wrong somewhere.Originally posted by sfcfury View PostComment
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I’d suspect the belt is too tight if 2 in a row have broken off the shaft. The Roban belts don’t need to be very tight. This video from Mike Spinner shows what correct tension should look like:
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Thank you guys for all of your help. I am very nervous now about this motor. I don’t think it’s the motors fault. More likely mine somehow. But I may try a new motor. And, Deltadart, thank you so much for that video. That’s exactly what I needed. Unfortunately I actually would say that my belt was about that loose. But maybe not quite. But now I have something to go by. I know that everyone has different motors they are using but I believe motion RC’s website recommends the scorpion. I don’t want to break the bank but I want something reliable. Recommendations?Comment
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