Official 3DP Thread

[Woodcock]

I'm pretty intrigued by all of this stuff. I think it's going to change everything.

Woody

[Dirty Dee]

Careful with the 3DLabPrint planes and hot weather/ direct sunlight. My MiG15 got a bit of warping this summer during Jet Jam.

Another example of someone leaving their plane in the car

[Elbee]

RBTX, I'd build that PBY just to have it sitting around. Too Cool 4 School. Best, LB

[rifleman_btx]

Yeah ive been looking at their pby Catalina and pt17 along with the f86. They have quite a list i wouldnt mind giving a try, just that f86 is really gonna cramp my limited space. And is really the only downside i see for me.

[Elbee]

I am able to scale stl fils both up and down in 'Prusa slic3r' and have used it many times. It is a free download https://www.prusa3d.com/ and go to Support, then i3 Mk3 and it is the Windows download dated 10/27/2018 I believe. As for weight limiting, for me, that is mostly trial the error. The recommendation from 3D Labs is to print in PLA to limit the shrinkage from part to part. Thought I would try PLA first for 2 adjoining parts and then try ABS for the same 2 parts and compare each with each other. I, too, bought the F-86 from 3D labs. After seeing what DD has been doing with his airliner on Thingiverse I had to try printing an airplane. Tammes thinks I have gone completely bonkers but likes my enthusiasm. Time will tell. Best, LB

[rifleman_btx]

Yeah thats kinda what i had worried about as well. If the weight cost would overwhelm the motor fan and not have enough go to rotate.

[RCjetdude]

I haven't even seen the assembly manual yet but I would think so. Not sure how that would work with retracts, etc.

[rifleman_btx]

A quick question do they say in the assembly manual if it can be scaled down? To say 80mm?

[rifleman_btx]

Awesome! Yes i can tell a definite difference in the two prints, its gonna look great when shes completed!

[RCjetdude]

Yes. I did a test piece on the intake to see how it would print and had to make some adjustments. First print was just too thin. Second one came out much better. I just got my first roll of Silver ABS today so now ready to turn it loose!

[rifleman_btx]

You doing it in abs correct? I think i remember you saying that earlier.

[RCjetdude]

I am currently trying to print their 90mm F-86 Sabre.

[rifleman_btx]

Well i did buy some clear myself, im gonna try and make the PT17 from 3dlabprints. So hopefully i can see good results when i print the windscreens. And thanks! I also plan to make some decorative items for my sons train.

[Elbee]

BTX, Congrats on the new toy! I was hoping someone might have had some experience with which clear filament to use so I could smooth it afterward with solvent and then polish it back to crystal. I did need to polish the clear lenses on my A-10 lights after I had stripped the OEM paint with acetone which 'hazed' the clear parts. Worked great. Best, LB

[rifleman_btx]

Well i just pulled the trigger on an Anet A6. Cant wait to set her up and give her a go! :) as for the clear, ive heard its more of a hazy fogged look. However if anyone have had a nice clean clear print would be really cool :)

[Elbee]

Hey Ya'll, Has anyone used or had any experience with 'Clear' filaments? Thinking ordinance lenses, HUD, Reflector and Canopy parts. Best, LB

[rifleman_btx]

Oh yeah thats really nice! I know i will have a learning curve to catch up with, but there is so much i want to do, beyond just the planes. Exciting times!:)

[RCjetdude]

My printer was purchased second hand and came with the enclosure. It is a wooden cabinet with a hinged wooden frame glass door. The inside has been lined with that thin foil insulation material. Inside the cabinet in the front left corner is a cheap little space heater that is controlled by a controller I got off of Amazon. It turns on/off the heater based on a temperature probe. I have mine in my basement which is an unheated space and can get a bit chilly in the Winter but the heater maintains a nice 40C ambient around the printer. I replaced the print bed with a piece of mirror glass which was flatter than the original bed. You can tell by how the first layer goes down. I also use cheap hair spray to adhere the print to the bed. Tried glue stick but the hairspray works better. You need the kind that has a certain ingredient in it. Do a Google search and you will see what I am talking about. The only other tool I got was one of those thin metal artists spatulas used for painting. Works great to remove the print from the bed. With this setup I can print ABS like a boss.... It can be frustrating at times but don't give up. Plenty of helps out there for the slicing software you will need to use. I use Simplify 3D. I just went ahead and paid the one time fee for the license. I also am trying to get better at Fusion 360 which is free for hobbiest and some powerful software. I am only scratching the surface with it. Start with some simple objects off of Thingiverse. I was very ambitious when I first got mine and tried to print a Skyrim dragon skull right off the bat. That was a lesson in frustration but I eventually learned and was able to get a successful print with ABS. Good luck and happy printing.



The dragon skull. Required a lot of support structures.

[rifleman_btx]

Cool, i have my game plan now, thanks for the advice. Definitely going abs, and print in the garage or in the barn.

[RCjetdude]

Yes it can be more smelly too but I honestly don't notice any smell with mine.