Official 3DP Thread

[rifleman_btx]

Ah yeah, I cant wait to see what you come up with for the structure. And yeah i noticed that too about the transparent filaments lol

[Woodcock]

Thinking on this, im wondering if one could print a skin shell say a mil thick 2 perimeter layers and infill in between. Leaving the inside hollow. Not sure how it would work completely, but it would be interesting to see if technique of this sort would work any better or same as the thin shell support buildups of the 3dlabprint planes would. should in theory have the same weight to strength characteristics.

Ya know Rman, I have been thinking for some time how to put a thin plastic shell on the surface of Foam models to give it a better smooth finish. You may have hit on something there. Print the shell then fill it. Just maybe. I don't think foam was ever chosen for models because it was what we prefer. More like it was the only thing we could find that would work. In and EDF, as the F-100. At least for the fuselage I have the outer shell, and the inner wind ducting. I can web support ribs between both to make it strong. At least that's what I'm thinking.

I did get the F-100 imported into Fusion 360 last night. Next step. Scaling it for a 90mm fan unit. Then I have to figure how to cut it up for printing. Once I have it broke into printable pieces, I can then start working on the joints and structure.

Woody

PS, LOL I figured out why they print them clear now. LOL

[Elbee]

I'm excited to start experimenting with this rifleman. Was checking out some 16 different filament types. Noticed the carbon fiber type. With really strong characteristics. Another was Amphora. If you have worked with any of these? I ordered the transparent type, 1.75 mm for now. It's amazing they make a surgical filament. Make your own body parts .lol.

SB, I do understand that some impregnated filaments are fairly abrasive and will wear the nozzle faster though a small price to pay, I think. I will try the MatterHackers PETG carbon fiber soon and post it in the 3DP forum. Best, LB

https://www.matterhackers.com/store/c/1.75mm%20PRO%20Series%20PETG

[Skyboom]

I'm excited to start experimenting with this rifleman. Was checking out some 16 different filament types. Noticed the carbon fiber type. With really strong characteristics. Another was Amphora. If you have worked with any of these? I ordered the transparent type, 1.75 mm for now. It's amazing they make a surgical filament. Make your own body parts .lol.

[rifleman_btx]

Thinking on this, im wondering if one could print a skin shell say a mil thick 2 perimeter layers and infill in between. Leaving the inside hollow. Not sure how it would work completely, but it would be interesting to see if technique of this sort would work any better or same as the thin shell support buildups of the 3dlabprint planes would. should in theory have the same weight to strength characteristics.

[fhhuber]

I'm learning a lot with my Ender 3.

I've already used one spool. Printed some sport pilots, F-4 Phantom cockpit set, a couple of decorative items and a lot of 28mm game figures.

I wn't need to print a whole airplane for a long time. I have quite the hanger full already.

[rifleman_btx]

This weekend is the plan, both planes. I had the Cessna ready last weekend, but since its Jerelds plane it wouldnt be right for me to fly it without him. Im digging the suspension systems in both planes, so really looking forward to Sunday.

[Woodcock]

I'm am far along, but I am in a time-consuming phase where the test pieces take 7-16hrs to print, so iterations can be slow. I'm hoping to finalize the tail and center fuselage sections in a month so I can atleast start printing/assembling/wiring those sections while I finish the landing gear and flap/spoiler mechanisms.

My gripe with the 3DLabPrint method is the thin surface walls, but using crazy complex internal structures. I prefer a thicker fuselage/wing skin and more conventional (and less) internal supports. A few times I accidentally bumped a wing or fuselage on the edge of a wall or table, and caused a break in the 3DLabPlanes.I also don't like the low temp resistance of PLA, so I have been heavily invested in experimenting with ABS.

I am using Solidworks. It is very similar to Fusion.

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We should collaborate on designing a P-51D and an F-16 LOL

But, on a serious note, the 3D printing definitely makes it easier to try out less popular plane designs with some level of ease. Once you get passed the learning curves of using the softwares and fuselage design methodologies, it is fairly simple (though may be a time investment)

Nice work mate. I've heard about solid works. Do you have to buy that? I filled out the info and got Fusion for 3 years. But if I get use to using it, and it gets turned off, I'll have to buy it. I haven't checked but I heard its hella expensive.

Woody

Rifle we have to approach what works. Have you flown it yet?

[rifleman_btx]

Im in agreement with the thin wall design. They do look nice when done, but im thinking when i start my designs I'll use a more standard method as well.

[Dirty Dee]

Thanks for the pointers Dee. Yea how is that plane coming along? Any progress? I'm going to order a 3D printer after all the Holiday Madness. Haven't really settled on which one just yet. I, like you don't see 100% why those guys design things quite like they do. There planes seem to fly, so they can't be all wrong. We'll see.

I'm am far along, but I am in a time-consuming phase where the test pieces take 7-16hrs to print, so iterations can be slow. I'm hoping to finalize the tail and center fuselage sections in a month so I can atleast start printing/assembling/wiring those sections while I finish the landing gear and flap/spoiler mechanisms.

My gripe with the 3DLabPrint method is the thin surface walls, but using crazy complex internal structures. I prefer a thicker fuselage/wing skin and more conventional (and less) internal supports. A few times I accidentally bumped a wing or fuselage on the edge of a wall or table, and caused a break in the 3DLabPlanes.I also don't like the low temp resistance of PLA, so I have been heavily invested in experimenting with ABS.

What software are you using Dee? I just installed Fusion yesterday, looks to seem useful, but I guess time will tell. I was planning to use a much more traditional structural under laying. Going to try to get this F-100 model into the fusion editor, and start playing with it.

I am using Solidworks. It is very similar to Fusion.

I would very much like to have a calibration with folks like yourself and Rman. I'm just sick and tired of being at the mercy of what models are picked for us by the manufacturers. I thinks it's time to break away from their choices, and start making our own. This Tech. and venue may make this possible, at least I'm hoping.

We should collaborate on designing a P-51D and an F-16 LOL

But, on a serious note, the 3D printing definitely makes it easier to try out less popular plane designs with some level of ease. Once you get passed the learning curves of using the softwares and fuselage design methodologies, it is fairly simple (though may be a time investment)

[bradl4648]

Thank's dirty dee that will be great to have since the xyz printer is a huge paperweight right now.:Crying: I bought my ender3d from banggood at 179.99 free shipping. I know there is an upgraded version like 314$. But after looking at all the revues it was not worth it. You will want to go to Thingiverse and get the upgrades for it. the fan cover, extruder guides.

[Woodcock]

Ya have been an inspiration mate.

Woody

[rifleman_btx]

Done did that with my A10 lmao! And im learning alot every day with my printer

[Woodcock]

Hey Woody, not sure if you saw, but I have a build log in the "Hangar" sub-forum for an A330 I have bend designing for 3D printing. I am not a fan of how 3DLabPrint designs their planes, so I am attempting my own, and it will be in ABS so no worries about sun or heat damage.

If you do plan on designing it similar to the 3DLab method, they use a slicer "trick" to get the outer thin skin and the sturdier internal structures. Basically each part is made up of 2 separate objects. The outer object gives you the 1-perimeter thin skin, and you need to tell the slicing program to print no top or bottom layers, and zero infill. The second object is the internal structure. Another thing is that the internal structure is offset from the outer skin by a very small amount, this is to preserve the finish of the outer skin, but it is still close enough to bond to the skin.

Also, here is some inspiration for you. Some designs other hobbyists have been working on. The Ercoupe and EL-39 are operational

Thanks for the pointers Dee. Yea how is that plane coming along? Any progress? I'm going to order a 3D printer after all the Holiday Madness. Haven't really settled on which one just yet. I, like you don't see 100% why those guys design things quite like they do. There planes seem to fly, so they can't be all wrong. We'll see.

What software are you using Dee? I just installed Fusion yesterday, looks to seem useful, but I guess time will tell. I was planning to use a much more traditional structural under laying. Going to try to get this F-100 model into the fusion editor, and start playing with it.

I would very much like to have a calibration with folks like yourself and Rman. I'm just sick and tired of being at the mercy of what models are picked for us by the manufacturers. I thinks it's time to break away from their choices, and start making our own. This Tech. and venue may make this possible, at least I'm hoping.

Best Regards
Woody

[fhhuber]

Did some research on 3d printers. I bought the Creality Ender 3. At $314.95 and free shipping I thought was reasonable. A company called 3D Printing Canada, supplies them. Hopefully it arrives undamaged.

You should like the Ender 3.

You have to keep an eye on it while it prints because if there is a flaw in the file, it can fill the build plate with lots of curled very fine filament.

See the YouTube videos on the printer especially Ender 3 upgrades videos such as:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hKlsJZJ4aJ8

and

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q4LGjZsRp9o

[Skyboom]

Did some research on 3d printers. I bought the Creality Ender 3. At $314.95 and free shipping I thought was reasonable. A company called 3D Printing Canada, supplies them. Hopefully it arrives undamaged.

[Dirty Dee]

bradl4648 the designer has mentioned that he is planning to release the files very soon, he is just putting some final touches on the build manual. It will be released at this site:

https://www.loftedaero.com/

Edit: looks like he will release it Jan 1st to simplify taxes.

[bradl4648]

dirty dee

do you have the files for the ercoupe ?? I really like that one or the pipper tomahawk last plane designed with the bubble canopy. I love the slogan when the aircoupe came out!! "this plane is so easy a lady can fly it! No rudder pedals so it was tethered in on the yoke. So I do not think that the slogan would be too good today. But hope you can let me know for the file. Thanks

[bradl4648]

Hi guys

I bought a xyz3d pro-3-1 printer this past spring and having issues. I can not get cura to work with it. it says not compatible with it. So I spent 150$ on simplify3d with the same results. So I bought an ender3 both software works for that one no problem. Does anyone have some settings to get my xyz to work cura just does not recognize it? Trying to print out some 3d labs planes and no go yet. The ender3 no issues just have to get rid of the stringing and get rid of the gap between each line. Thanks

[Dirty Dee]

I'm just wondering how long to design a nice bird for printing? Guess I'll find out.

I do have a little of experience in this area. We'll see how it goes. : )

Hey Woody, not sure if you saw, but I have a build log in the "Hangar" sub-forum for an A330 I have bend designing for 3D printing. I am not a fan of how 3DLabPrint designs their planes, so I am attempting my own, and it will be in ABS so no worries about sun or heat damage.

If you do plan on designing it similar to the 3DLab method, they use a slicer "trick" to get the outer thin skin and the sturdier internal structures. Basically each part is made up of 2 separate objects. The outer object gives you the 1-perimeter thin skin, and you need to tell the slicing program to print no top or bottom layers, and zero infill. The second object is the internal structure. Another thing is that the internal structure is offset from the outer skin by a very small amount, this is to preserve the finish of the outer skin, but it is still close enough to bond to the skin.

Also, here is some inspiration for you. Some designs other hobbyists have been working on. The Ercoupe and EL-39 are operational