I agree with what you say. However, I have been using what I have successfully for 19 years and have over 9000 flights. At this point I'm not going to invest in a new flight control system. I looked at a 16 channel system and there are too many variables and voice commands for me to have to think about. It took 3 different screens just to set up the basic D/R Expo functions. When I tried to set it up on the computer before downloading it to the Tx it took hours. I set up a new plane on my Tactic in 15 minutes. I have 3 Tactics ( I have bought two for back-ups.)
In closing I have tried to help some new pilots with the Safe feature and I think it's makes it more difficult. When they switch off Safe they really over control the plane.
The new technology allows them to takeoff and fly a few circles and ATTEMPT to line up for a landing but there is more to safely controlling a plane than that???
Thanks for the feedback and the discussion which is the source of real knowledge.
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In deference to your age and experience, I will put this as politely and as diplomatically as I can. I think that technology has come a long way since the 60's in what goes into a real aircraft and in RC model aircraft. Today's real aircraft utilize all kinds of tech to help stabilize and ease the pilot's burden when flying aircraft of all kinds. Small privately aircraft (planes and helicopters) benefit immensely from computer assist, GPS, dampened and assisted hydraulics, fly by wire. Larger, commercial aircraft also are benefited by computers, gyros, flight sensors that monitor and assist in flight control. Some can be detrimental (eg, 737 Max 8) but most are good and standardized (eg. yaw dampers). Some planes cannot be flown without these computer assisted systems that incorporate gyros, dampening systems, etc. So why not use them in RC models? These aren't the "60's" anymore. We have the tech and we should take full advantage of whatever is available if we so desire. That does NOT mean we don't "learn to fly the airplane". That just means we learn to fly them sooner and we learn to fly them better. None of it reduces our enjoyment level. Isn't that part of what it's all about? Even in the 60's, the advancements since the Wright Bros. were enormous. Did we reject those advancements?
You use "rates" yet you scoff at "expo". What's the difference? All of us enjoy this hobby in many ways. Allow people to enjoy it in whatever way that works best for them.
(No offense intended.)Leave a comment:
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From an earlier post about difference in control surface travel. Check you trim settings. If you have 15% trim on a surface it will not match the deflection on the other surface.Leave a comment:
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I'm not trying to be a small ass but I think we all learn from experience and this thread is designed for that. I'm enjoying the process😉Leave a comment:
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The circular vs linier movement is negligible around the center of the ark which is where the small adjustments are needed.Leave a comment:
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I can do that by adjusting the travel limits but that doesn't solve the issue that I need more travel to taxi. So that's why I went with triple rates.
I could move the nose wheel 90* for flight deck maneuvering but would never have that activated on TO & Ldg.
This all works because when the gear is retracted the nose wheel steering is disconnected.Leave a comment:
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If you want to reduce the steering on the front retract, then use one of these or similar ( servo end point adjuster). https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005...xx__1658783737Leave a comment:
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I was going to start a post about how a servo in a circular movement is actually negative expo and all but I guess with all your experience I don't need to add to this thread anymore.Leave a comment:
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I have a Tactic TX that I have been flying on for years. At least 5,000. flights and I use very little Expo!!!! I'm a former Navy pilot and when I move a stick I DO NOT Want a softer response..
Especially around the low end when landing and taking off. I want to hold about a 5* Alpha on approach and hold it with Elevator for speed and Throttle for altitude! Also I want to be able to steer down the approach with small rudder moves, No wing rocking from the Ailerons. Get the main gear and tail hook down FIRST.
I have over 550 EDF jet flights and the only two crashes were caused by 1. a frozen elevator servo and 2,a plane I lost in the SUN😖 I didn't mention I'm 84 years old.😎
I will use EXPO at about 10% on Elev & Ailerons. So I don't get cross feed on Loops and Rolls.
So obviously I have no need for Gyros and talking transmitters. LEARN TO FLY THE PLANE. LIKE WE DID IN THE EARLY 60'S.Leave a comment:
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I called Motion RC today and they are shipping my decals today😎😎
The said since I have used all my channels (6) I can't plug the nose wheel in an open channel and mix it with rudder. So, my only option is putting the rudder on a 3-way switch and set a 25% travel for take offs and landing... That will work😊
Thanks for the help!Leave a comment:
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The number of wires has nothing to do with it. The mixing is done in the TX under "mix". To get it to work, you need to dial in the appropriate defection for each side by being in the correct line of the mixing page and make sure nothing is INH and you don't have a switch selected . Have everything powered up when you're in the mix page and start scrolling and watch when the wheel starts to move. Then you have to go to another line and do the same to make it defect in the other direction. If it doesn't move, scroll the other way.
Your second quoted sentence makes the most sense and is probably the easiest route to go. Throw the switch for low rates on the rudder for take offs and landings, flip to mid or high rates when flying as it suits you. That's what I do on a few of my planes.
The other choice is to add an Assan steering gyro. It will allow your plane to track down the runway like it was glued to the center line. Steering inputs are somewhat numbed with the Assan so you don't over-correct too easily and the return to center after you let go of the rudder stick is also numbed and controlled by the Assan. I have this device on several of my planes that are hard to keep straight on the take off run.Leave a comment:
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Contact them about the decals if you didn't get them.
All servos have three wires so I don't understand your issue. Plug the steering servo in another slot and mix it.Leave a comment:
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I received my Vulcan 4S yesterday and there were no DECALS enclosed???? I'm sure they will send a set. This is not the first tine this happened.
Also How do you control the nose wheel travel??? It's connected to the rudder but I do not want the same travel as the rudder. 5-7* travel on a nose wheel is enough.
In the past I mixed the rudder with nose gear servo to limit the travel but it's not working. there are 3 wires???
If I put the rudder on triple rates and have low at 25% mid @ 45% and high @ 75% and use Low for Take Offs and Landing it will solve the over steer issue. I only need small rudder correction to line up with the runway and I do not want big nose wheel turns taxing or the plane will FLIP!!!Leave a comment:
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ok, i will recenter the arm and swap pushrods from flap & aileronLeave a comment:
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Doesn’t look right to me. The first picture shows the aileron horn angled aft and the flap servo horn being perpendicular. The two aileron servo horns should be perpendicular and it off they should be off the same, slightly forward or aft. The flap servo arm should be perpendicular at half flaps and aft with no flaps and forward the same amount with full flaps. On mine I moved the pushrod to an inner hole instead of reducing the travel in my radio. Moving the pushrod in allows the servo to work less moving the flap or whatever surface.Leave a comment:
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