Official Freewing 90mm Eurofighter Typhoon EDF Jet Thread

[T- Elbert]

Apriliamgt

I use large screw in hooks to the studs ( or in this case a support board) . I them use a small rope looped around the gear. On lighter planes the nose gear works fine. Push the rope up to the base of the gear. For larger planes like the F14 or the Mig29 I use two hooks and turn the plane nose down and rope the main gear.
I have been doing this for years and it works great.

[kallend]

Anyone interested in how I made the faster gear/door sequencer, details are here:

https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/member.php?u=42040

https://youtu.be/wL4-i_eBheo

[Apriliamgt]

Finally received my package from Callie , some nice schemes for Typhoons

What are you using to mount the plane ?

[T- Elbert]

Finally received my package from Callie , some nice schemes for Typhoons

[viper1gj]

So I did some measurements....

Excellent analysis again. Please keep posting your test results. I'm going to school on your experience.

I will get my hands on my airframe in about 2 weeks. I will use a Jeti radio with all the flight controls on separate channels so I can make adjustments and mixes in the radio. I usually like to set my CG so that there is very little pitch to canopy during a 45 degree inverted upline at higher power settings. This helps me to do slow high AOA flight and approach and landing flare with out excess speed or banging the nose gear first. I'm sure based on what I've read so far that the CG will be well aft of the mark so your 20-30mm aft makes much sense to me.

I've flown 2 different CARF Eurosports in the past years and found the canards don't make much difference in roll or pitch. They did help when dropping the trailing edge to help lift the nose on take off rotation, landing flare, and slow high AOA flight. So I ended up using them when you would use conventional flaps. However I never had the wonky rolls that I have seen in some of the first videos of this jet. Hopefully you can figure it out and let us know.

Thanks,
Gary

[kallend]

Home-made "afterburners" on the V3. Also my "heavy nozzles" (160 grams for the pair).

https://youtu.be/iHtrOka4HXI

[Apriliamgt]

Something exciting arrived into the UK today

[Evan D]

So I did some measurements. The elevons were traveling quite a bit more up than down. I offset the servo arms one notch and did a bit of trim to get them closer to even. Then I found one travels a little further than the other in one direction. If I was set up as elevons in my transmitter and not as aileron/ elevator and the mix done through the board it would be really easy to make an adjustment. Since it's done through the board I had to do a small mix. Frustrating.

With the CG further back the plane needed quite a bit of down trim, about 2mm. I turned each canard one turn, about 1.5mm of down measured at the mold marks and adjusted the elevons even with the trailing edge.

Rain today…

[kallend]

I should have my custom Arduino sequencer finished by tomorrow. It's already done for the "scale" mode of operation - 5 seconds total transit time.

Here it is. It has the same options as the stock sequencer but is a lot quicker and only requires the one channel, unlike using a sequencer on the TX.

The basic operation was easy to program. The hard part was dealing with unusual situations, like the gear switch being changed in the middle of an operation, or the gear and switch being in opposite positions on power-up.

https://youtu.be/wL4-i_eBheo

[Evan D]

Exactly. On a two servo aileron airplane it would be as easy as turning on differential. Since you use standard aileron/ elevator on this and the mixing board converts that to elevons you can't just do that.

I found as I did a roll if I also added a little push to the elevator stick it rolled straight. But I need to figure out why. It may not be elevons. It may be the canards neutral point is not right. With the CG set the elevons are both drooped a bit and it may be I need to droop the canards and bring the elevons back up even with the trailing edges. Or maybe a little of both. I do know it's not having roll in the canard movement as I have my canards on separate channels and have tried roll with the canards turned off.

About balance. I put two of the 21g slugs in the tail stinger and use 645g batteries. I have the 6S version. Without stores I could get CG about 20mm aft of the marks and felt it was a little nose heavy, needed a bit of push inverted. When I added the stores and dremeled a notch for the canard and satellite receiver wires to lay in at the rear of the battery area so I could move the battery that extra 2-3mm back I could get about 35mm. It seemed a bit squirrelly though an inverted test showed it to be where I usually like my planes to be. I moved the battery forward about 10mm and it felt better. I don't fly with gyros and if you do I think 35 may be a good place. I know Jon and Jandro will probably move theirs back even more.


I think this is an interesting plane. It looks good in the air and in general it flies very well. I am amazed at how well the new EDF unit does in this. Deltas are draggy airframes and the stores add a lot more drag. On our paved runway she is off in about 50ft easy if you want and she has decent top speed. I think this EDF will be a good one for a lot of people that have the current FW fans or those that swap in EFlite fans. I usually swap in 8S but I think this one is staying 6S.

My only naggles about how it flys are both about roll, one it doesn't have a very fast roll rate, I'd say it's "scale" and then the roll is wonky. Real jets don't roll perfectly axially but this is way wonky even compare to "scale". Otherwise she is a fine scale jet.

...What exactly do you mean by adding down elevator with aileron. When using elevons does this mean during roll commands you have the down going elevon moving more than the up going elevon? I usually program differential ailerons to off set adverse yaw by starting with 100% up and 80% down. It sounds like your testing may show just the opposite.

Thanks, Gary

[viper1gj]

Last I tried adding down elevator with aileron and that’s what it seems to like, so I need to offset the horns on the elevons…Seems for me 25-30mm behind the marks is a good balance point.....

Excellent analysis of roll and CG.

I'll start with 30mm aft based on your testing.

What exactly do you mean by adding down elevator with aileron. When using elevons does this mean during roll commands you have the down going elevon moving more than the up going elevon? I usually program differential ailerons to off set adverse yaw by starting with 100% up and 80% down. It sounds like your testing may show just the opposite.

Thanks, Gary

[Evan D]

My flights today were to fine tune where I want the balance and to try and get the roll more axial, it’s absolutely horrid how bad the roll is. I tried removing the roll on the canards as well as adding more than the book amount. Then I tried opposite and additive rudder. Last I tried adding down elevator with aileron and that’s what it seems to like, so I need to offset the horns on the elevons…

Seems for me 25-30mm behind the marks is a good balance point.

I am impressed with the fan in this. I never use all the stores on these planes and am with this and the power is still pretty good even with the normal drag a delta has plus the drag of all the stuff hanging off it.

[Evan D]

Interesting how close in size they are.

[Dougcarr73]

Unfortunately, I got two right side rails for the drop tanks. It will be a few weeks before Motion gets any left wing rails in stock. If anyone out there got my left wing and I got your right wing, let’s do a swap.

[Evan D]

It is the light control module that has the pot. Controls the flash frequency.

I remember those having an adjusting pot on them. I wonder if it was a V1 version. Might have been the accompanying light module back on the old F/A-18E and original Euro...

[BenOzzy94]

I have a Frsky X20s, and yes, the travel of the channel goes from -100 to 100, I’ve also tried doing it from 0 to 100, it works perfect once, but then I return the switch to its original position (which made the thrust work forward at first) and i still get reverse thrust no matter go many time I toggle the switch it’s stuck in reverse. If I unplug and plug the battery it works fine.

For those of you having issues with reverse thrust this is what fixed it for me (FRsky Qx7s) I had the same issue where the reverse would activate but not de-activate.

[kallend]

I remember those having an adjusting pot on them. I wonder if it was a V1 version. Might have been the accompanying light module back on the old F/A-18E and original Euro...

I took it apart to look. There is no adjustable component on the V2 board.

I should have my custom Arduino sequencer finished by tomorrow. It's already done for the "scale" mode of operation - 5 seconds total transit time.

[Evan D]

I remember those having an adjusting pot on them. I wonder if it was a V1 version. Might have been the accompanying light module back on the old F/A-18E and original Euro...

[kallend]

The slow gear door action doesn't really bother me ..................... yet. If it does, I have one of these laying around to try:
https://www.rc-castle.com/index.php?...or%20sequencer
It came out of an older Freewing jet with sequenced door.


.

Follow up on this. I had a Freewing V2 sequencer (2 actually) in my spares box and finally got around to testing it. The sequencer does not leave a long enough delay between initiating the retraction of the strut and closing the main door, with the result that the closing door jams the strut part way through the retraction. Pity, about 1/2 second more delay and it would have been perfect. Unfortunately it is not adjustable.

[viper1gj]

Maiden in the books....I did install the weight that came with the plane and mounted it in as far back as possible. Still nose heavy but not too bad....Lands on the mains and the nose up easily.

Do you know where your CG is compared to the book recommended CG?
Thank, Gary