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Official Freewing 90mm Eurofighter Typhoon EDF Jet Thread
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Would any one care to share their High and Low rate throws? The book is calling for 43mm/35mm on the Elevator and that is visually terrifying especially when you consider the Canards as well. I know settings are very personal but looking for some validation of the book.
Sequencer Nirvana
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kallend This is one of my favorite schemes for the eurofighter. Glad to see someone go for it with the black. It's classy and with the benefit of higher viz. Nice work!Originally posted by kallend View Post
Well, Hugh's is high viz too. Hugh Wiedman Impressive execution as well. I know I've probably commented on it in the past but it looks fantastic!
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So just finished rewiring my Typhoon (removed the control box) and it works like a champ. No canard movement on the roll axis like the full size, and my gear go down/up in 4.3 seconds, including the sequenced rear doors (closed > open > closed) (Down from 15 secs stock). Tomorrow will be all about setting up the control throws and CG and then its hope for a nice day between now and the New Year.
And Hugh, I have Callie working on a custom scheme for me. it will be another few weeks and It should be NUTS.
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Once I got it working as I like it I left it. Doesn’t change the choices he has.
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I changed the code in response to your comments. I don't think you tried the revised version.Originally posted by Evan D View PostPaint over decals you don’t like. You can’t remove them without harming the surface of the foam. You can program the retract sequencing through most radios or use Kallends sequencer (I tried and took it out), or swap out the FreeWing sequencer (what I’ve done) or live with it.
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Paint over decals you don’t like. You can’t remove them without harming the surface of the foam. You can program the retract sequencing through most radios or use Kallends sequencer (I tried and took it out), or swap out the FreeWing sequencer (what I’ve done) or live with it.
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Just a correction. When you do the sequenced doors. Ie closed > open > closed. they are slow. i could cut about 8 seconds from the entire sequence with a rewire.
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Just putting mine together and a few things. First is a very nice-looking plane and i am very much looking forward to the maiden. I also noticed the extra spring so thank you guys for answer that question above.
Also, even though it comes with no tiger decals applied, it still has many out of the box including wing stickers and an aircraft number, which is disappointing. Anyone know of a good way to remove those?
Online many complain about the gear cycle speed but mine go up and down lightning quick, which makes me wonder if they changed something in the blue box? I was planning on ripping out their mixing box entirely save for keeping the lights going but now I might just fly it as stock before performing the surgery.
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If it's like other Freewing struts, you just need to remove the trailing link (be careful not to lose the circlips) and pull the plunger out. The spring fits behind the plunger.Originally posted by Fastjet57 View PostThanks, that would make sense. The basic spring is very stiff so maybe the other one is softer. I presume one would have to take the whole nosegear assembly out to change the spring?
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Thanks, that would make sense. The basic spring is very stiff so maybe the other one is softer. I presume one would have to take the whole nosegear assembly out to change the spring?
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In the absence of specific guidance in the manual, the consensus seems to be that it's an alternative spring for the nose strut, with a different stiffness.Originally posted by Fastjet57 View PostIn the pack of screws etc that comes with the model there is a 'Nose Undercarriage Spring', but the assembly instructions have nothing on how to install it. Any help please on how to install the spring?
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In the pack of screws etc that comes with the model there is a 'Nose Undercarriage Spring', but the assembly instructions have nothing on how to install it. Any help please on how to install the spring?
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