Official Freewing 90mm F-104 Starfighter Thread

[timmybeetle]

Sept 2025

Well, I still have my silver one in the box, didn't dare to assemble it and flying it due to my problems with my F104 70mm edf version.
For me I found out with my 70mm one that CG in manual was to far aft resulting in my plane falling out of the sky when throttling back ore on downwind.
I have CG now at 25 mm and it flies great.
I found a yellow/black one on the second hand market and bought it.
Had to read this thread again and also RCGroups for the best info.
So I moved my aileron linkage to the 4the hole counted from outside, also I did this for my rudder and elevator.
Flaps is 3the hole from outside, advantage is that you now use as much of the servo travel as possible.
My CG I will start at front wing screws.
ECS settings, timing is set to med, cut off voltage is set to low and cut off type is set to soft cut.
Rates are: Elevator 32-35mm up/down, Aileron 18-20 up/down, Rudder 18-20 left/right and flaps half 20mm and full at 60mm.
Gyro gain is set for Aileron 5 o'clock position, Elevator 5 o'clock position and Rudder at 4 o'clock position.

Now I have to wait for decent flying weather, for first flight not gusty wind ore to much wind.

Regards Hans

My F104 70mm EDF Klu

[ggillila]

Sorry for the late reply. My planes are put up for the winter so I can't show you on the plane, sorry. There is more than one right answer - it depends on your own preference. My preference is not to use dual rates because I don't like to be flipping back and forth when I am flying. I use expo instead, this helps soften the response and makes the model less "twitchy". But that's just me, I know that lots of pilots like dual rates. On my radio, I have the travel dialed back - I have 60% on aileron, 65% on elevator and rudder. For the expo, I've set 35% expo on aileron and elevator and 50% on rudder (that helps with ground handling). The lower travel setting (65%) also helps tone down the gyro's response. For the flaps, I have 20% elevator trim set when I have the flaps down (that's up elevator trim when the flaps are down). I find this model to be very sensitive to the controls, one reason is that it does fly relatively fast and the other reason is that its an F104 and its sensitive by nature of those tiny stubby wings - so that's why I did what I did.
I imagine that you could also use dual rates to tame this model, but then you would still have high rates available and you might have great difficulty especially if you forgot to set it to low rates. Another reason why I just use one rate, but again that's my preference.
With the flaps set for landing, the model settles in a nose-high attitude and you can control the sink rate with the throttle... but it’s not easy. You don't have a lot of flying time and so there isn't much chance to practice and usually not enough time for a go-around. My timer is set for only 3 minutes and my legs are usually shaking afterwards - it just gets the adrenaline going!

Ok thanks man!

[themudduck]

I really appreciate this! How does your elevator low rate compare to the low rate in the manual?

Sorry for the late reply. My planes are put up for the winter so I can't show you on the plane, sorry. There is more than one right answer - it depends on your own preference. My preference is not to use dual rates because I don't like to be flipping back and forth when I am flying. I use expo instead, this helps soften the response and makes the model less "twitchy". But that's just me, I know that lots of pilots like dual rates. On my radio, I have the travel dialed back - I have 60% on aileron, 65% on elevator and rudder. For the expo, I've set 35% expo on aileron and elevator and 50% on rudder (that helps with ground handling). The lower travel setting (65%) also helps tone down the gyro's response. For the flaps, I have 20% elevator trim set when I have the flaps down (that's up elevator trim when the flaps are down). I find this model to be very sensitive to the controls, one reason is that it does fly relatively fast and the other reason is that its an F104 and its sensitive by nature of those tiny stubby wings - so that's why I did what I did.
I imagine that you could also use dual rates to tame this model, but then you would still have high rates available and you might have great difficulty especially if you forgot to set it to low rates. Another reason why I just use one rate, but again that's my preference.
With the flaps set for landing, the model settles in a nose-high attitude and you can control the sink rate with the throttle... but its not easy. You don't have a lot of flying time and so there isn't much chance to practice and usually not enough time for a go-around. My timer is set for only 3 minutes and my legs are usually shaking afterwards - it just gets the adrenaline going!

[ggillila]

I don't have the exact rates handy but this model is very sensitive to aileron, so its best to reduce the amount of aileron movement. When you lower the flaps this model will pitch downwards, so its necessary to add up elevator trim when you use the flaps. The model handles well during the approach to landing, so you don't need to have excessive speed. When you have the flaps and air brakes out it slows down and handles quite well during the approach. Exactly how much flap to use is not extremely important - the more flap deflection you have, the more up trim you will need. The gyro works best on a low setting, about 1/3 a turn of the little screws, or less than one-half. The control board can be in any position you wish, it doesn't have a gyro in it so its position makes no difference.

I use a lot of flap, I set them down as far as they will go - they function mainly as brakes this way and along with the actual air brakes its helps keep the speed under control during landing. When you use a lot of flaps, you have to hold some throttle so that the plane doesn't slow down too much,

I really appreciate this! How does your elevator low rate compare to the low rate in the manual?

[themudduck]

Hey,

I'm pretty new to Hobby Squawk so just now got guided here from Glider Guy, thanks by the way if you ever see this. I got this plane a few months ago and finally have the nerve to maiden it, and just have a few questions since this plane can bite quick if not set up right.

1. Throw rates- I have seen a few YouTube videos and a lot of them suggest the elevator and ailerons need a lot less throw than what the manual says. I am not trying to push this planes boundaries, so what throws (in mm) are you guys finding comfortable? I usually use 30% expo on large EDFs but am flexible to use more or less.

2. Gyro- I heard the gyro's gain should be lowered from stock, even down to 30 versus the stock 75. Is this correct?

3. Flaps- I have seen a wide variety of flap settings and elevator mixes, some saying to top at 20mm of flaps while others say 55mm. I have a long runway, so I can handle a faster landing if that means it is less likely to death drop. What half and full flap settings do you guys use, and what elevator mix do you associate with it?

4. Control Board- This might be sort of a stupid question, but does the control board necessarily have to be flat or can I turn it sideways to give more room for the battery? I already had to unscrew it to make the rat nest of wires to fit. Note the gyro is still flat like it is supposed to be, I know that is critical.

Thanks guys

I don't have the exact rates handy but this model is very sensitive to aileron, so its best to reduce the amount of aileron movement. When you lower the flaps this model will pitch downwards, so its necessary to add up elevator trim when you use the flaps. The model handles well during the approach to landing, so you don't need to have excessive speed. When you have the flaps and air brakes out it slows down and handles quite well during the approach. Exactly how much flap to use is not extremely important - the more flap deflection you have, the more up trim you will need. The gyro works best on a low setting, about 1/3 a turn of the little screws, or less than one-half. The control board can be in any position you wish, it doesn't have a gyro in it so its position makes no difference.

I use a lot of flap, I set them down as far as they will go - they function mainly as brakes this way and along with the actual air brakes its helps keep the speed under control during landing. When you use a lot of flaps, you have to hold some throttle so that the plane doesn't slow down too much,

[ggillila]

Hey,

I'm pretty new to Hobby Squawk so just now got guided here from Glider Guy, thanks by the way if you ever see this. I got this plane a few months ago and finally have the nerve to maiden it, and just have a few questions since this plane can bite quick if not set up right.

1. Throw rates- I have seen a few YouTube videos and a lot of them suggest the elevator and ailerons need a lot less throw than what the manual says. I am not trying to push this planes boundaries, so what throws (in mm) are you guys finding comfortable? I usually use 30% expo on large EDFs but am flexible to use more or less.

2. Gyro- I heard the gyro's gain should be lowered from stock, even down to 30 versus the stock 75. Is this correct?

3. Flaps- I have seen a wide variety of flap settings and elevator mixes, some saying to top at 20mm of flaps while others say 55mm. I have a long runway, so I can handle a faster landing if that means it is less likely to death drop. What half and full flap settings do you guys use, and what elevator mix do you associate with it?

4. Control Board- This might be sort of a stupid question, but does the control board necessarily have to be flat or can I turn it sideways to give more room for the battery? I already had to unscrew it to make the rat nest of wires to fit. Note the gyro is still flat like it is supposed to be, I know that is critical.

Thanks guys

[DCORSAIR]

Curious if this is coming back as a V2 or if it is completely discontinued.

Everybody I spoke with say its discontinued for good, must have not been a popular one but it sure flew good.

[rlcamden]

Curious if this is coming back as a V2 or if it is completely discontinued.

[rifleman_btx]

Dang, I'm gonna have to stop slowing down too much when I turn in on final. Luckily I only did that twice because I got too use to the other planes. Good news about the whole thing was both crashes caused clean breaks and nothing that was beyond repair. Don't know why I do that, I guess I forgot how this plane like to be handled with speed and needs a decent approach length

[DCORSAIR]

Hi

I contacted MotionRC about this, and yes it's discontinued.
Luckily I found a shop in Germany who had them in store, I think they have 1 left, silver one.
Natterermodelbau, you can buy from them but shipping cost will be an issue.

Also I contacted https://www.sebart-shop.com/shop/aer...ghter-edf-rtf/
but they didn't reply, never hear back from them.......

Grts Hans

Oh okay, Thank you for the info.

[timmybeetle]

Anyone know if this jet got discontinued?? Never see it in stock anymore, just curious.

Hi

I contacted MotionRC about this, and yes it's discontinued.
Luckily I found a shop in Germany who had them in store, I think they have 1 left, silver one.
Natterermodelbau, you can buy from them but shipping cost will be an issue.

Also I contacted https://www.sebart-shop.com/shop/aer...ghter-edf-rtf/
but they didn't reply, never hear back from them.......

Grts Hans

[Evan D]

Pretty sure the yellow is. Not sure about the silver.

[DCORSAIR]

Anyone know if this jet got discontinued?? Never see it in stock anymore, just curious.

[xviper]

Electric retracts work by detecting the stalled current and shutting off. So by definition the peak current occurred where the retract stopped and not during any part of the motion where they are stiff or sticky but keep moving.

Perhaps some do but it's not likely this one does. Read what Evan D said. If you take apart one of these F-104 retracts you'll see the limit switches. I've converted a set of retracts with limit switches to current overload sensing. To do this, the limit switch has to be removed from the equation and the need for a retract controller. You know these types of electric retracts usually by the fact that they have only 2-wire leads instead of the 3-wire leads that Freewing uses for their retracts. I've had planes from the factory that have had both types. I prefer the ones with limit switches but that's just my own experience. Either type can stop mid-cycle if there is excessive resistance in the cycle path.

[Evan D]

The more common retracts used in the foam planes from various manufacturers have travel limit switches that stop the movement. If the switch isn’t working for some reason there is a timing circuit that turns it off. They don’t turn off by amperage.

With a light you can look down inside and see the switches on the board. Or take one apart.

[HarryC]

I have replaced the BEC that comes built in to the model with a high quality brand BEC. That has solved the problem. The BEC that comes in the model claims to be 8 amp, either it is faulty or it is Chinese "optimism". Electric retracts work by detecting the stalled current and shutting off. So by definition the peak current occurred where the retract stopped and not during any part of the motion where they are stiff or sticky but keep moving. For retracts of this size the peak current if all 3 reached stall at the same time, would be no more than 1.5A and probably less. Add in the general current for the radio and lights and it should peak at about 2 - 3 amps for an instant. An allegedly 8A BEC that drops to just over 4V is faulty or is not anywhere near an 8A rating. The BEC was putting out 4,85V and dropping to or below 4.4V. The replacement BEC has an adjustable output so I set it to 5.5V (equivalent to a fully charged Nicad or Nimh) and at worst it loses 0.2V when the retracts stall.

[Evan D]

Interesting post and thank you for your insight especially comparing it to a much more expensive example.

I don't use telemetry but it does sound like the gear is drawing down the BEC voltage. The gear on this and the F-16 is complicated, maybe trying to reduce the friction/ stiction of the gear? Replacing it sounds very difficult and maybe more expensive than the aircraft itself.

Yeah anhedral isn't right.

I fly a 6000 Socokin in mine. I did put the higher power FW 90mm fan in it as mine came with an older, lower power set up.

Yeah, they also give a low rate 20mm but I'm close to that value. I do like a quicker roll rate than most people.

AB, yeah not good. Many had paint over spray and not visible at all.

I'm happy with the stock E51 I've used in both my F-104's, It's just dialing in the correct amount of sensitivity for your own feel. But having it adjustable in flight, mixed to the landing gear switch would be nice. The newer E52 may be a good upgrade if you are not flying a receiver with built in gyro.

I'm good with the gear springiness...

I have a large number of these with open boards and have never had an issue... Yet... Good idea to make a cover.

Please keep us advised of what you do about the gear pulling down the voltage.


Thanks!

[HarryC]

I recently bought one of these, my first edf. I mainly fly scale jets but the loss of suitable airfields where I live made me sell most of them including my Avonds F-104 which is about 50% bigger than the Freewing and was powered by a 100N jet.

I have now had 14 flights with this model. I use telemetry on the battery and fly until I have used 70% of its capacity, I typically start to set up the landing circuit at 65% and am landing by 70%. Depending on how much high throttle has been used that gives me flight times from 3:30 to 4:20. Peak current at start is 123 Amps, I find flying at around half throttle stick which is typically 52 Amps to 60 Amps gives a nice speed and the longer flight time.

Here are my thoughts on the Freewing 90mm F-104 -
1. I am really enjoying flying it, I was hesitant about having a foamy edf after having a "proper" jet but I am very pleased with it.
2. Most time when I select gear up or down my Tx warns me of low Rx voltage. The alarm is set for anything below 4.5V and the data logs confirm it is dropping to around 4.4V. Clearly the alleged 8A BEC that comes fitted to the model is not able to meet the demands of the retracts so I will pull it out and replace it.
3. The anhedral is not enough for scale, it looks a bit wrong but you probably have to know the F-104 quite well to notice something like that, I expect most people will not see anything wrong about it. I suspect it is because more anhedral would not be allowed by the straight wing joiner.
4. I chose the Admiral 5100 Carbon lipo from MotionRC.eu, with this the model balances exactly on the spot specified in the instructions.
5. The value for aileron travel given in the instructions, up to 25mm, is very wrong! I have mine at 12mm and the roll rate is still a bit too fast for my liking. Easy to fly it but too fast for scale. God knows what 25mm travel would do!
6. The built in afterburner light is next to useless. It is recessed in the foam, only visible at certain side angles and not from behind, it is too dim to see most of the time, and is the wrong colour. Apart from that....
7. I use an Rx with a gyro built in so I removed the gyro that came with the model and the surplus wiring it required. I tried the gyro that comes with the model for the first 4 flights and it seemed to work fine but its drawback is that you cannot adjust the gain by radio, it has to be done by preset pots, which is so last century! I put a GPS telemetry module where the gyro had been so it kept balance.
8. The undercarriage springs are far too hard with the result that the legs behave as if they are solid wire. I will get around to calculating correct springs and fitting them, in the meantime I have softened the noseleg a little by cutting 2 or 3 coils from the end of the spring. Although that increases the spring rate which is not good, it does reduce its length and thus the full extension force, so that the noseleg spring can actually start to work. A nose spring that is too hard is the cause of a lot of bouncing when models land.
9. The multi-function board is not in a case, it is out in the open meaning all the component legs and solder joints etc are open to any drops of water, any stray conducting material etc. I think that is very poor so I will need to make a cover or get some pcb varnish to insulate it all.

So, some things could be improved, especially a BEC that doesn't go low V when I operate the gear, and a multi function board whose electrics are exposed, but overall I am pleased with the model (I have experienced far more problems with models costing many times more!!), I am enjoying flying it and I would not hesitate to replace it or try another Freewing edf.

[rms]

My Freewing Starfighter.

[Evan D]

Sounds like a really good plan.