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Official FlightLine F4U-1A Corsair 1600mm (63") Wingspan

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  • Fast N Light
    replied
    Originally posted by Grossman56 View Post
    In the meantime, I have this issue, I think it may have been addressed before, when the gear is retracting or extending, they shudder, really rocks the airplane, not a very smooth retract/extend.
    Was there a solution?
    Grossman56
    (Dangerous Dan)
    Gear shudder on deploy/retraction for me has been caused by bent drive screws in the retracts. That's typically accompanied by cracked retract housings. When the cracks are large enough, the gear can collapse with minimal loading.

    Leave a comment:


  • Grossman56
    replied
    Went well Dave, had her out flying today and they stayed on!
    Elbee says to increase the x and y settings on the slicer, slightly which is something we might want to try on the winter when I get another set of Robarts.
    In the meantime, I have this issue, I think it may have been addressed before, when the gear is retracting or extending, they shudder, really rocks the airplane, not a very smooth retract/extend.
    Was there a solution? I'll have to look back through the pages.
    Meantime, if there are some outer rings that 'size' the wheels correctly to the Robarts, we could do that route as well with the new wheels.

    Grossman56
    (Dangerous Dan)

    Leave a comment:


  • davegee
    replied
    Originally posted by Grossman56 View Post
    Industrial strength Velcro my friend! And you can buy the velcro straps all at Wally World. If one isn't big enough, combine two.

    I'm in the process of installing Elbee's wheel caps on her, they printed a bit small, but I used some Silicone sealer Click image for larger version Name:	20250823_134845.jpg Views:	0 Size:	66.6 KB ID:	431262 around the edges to form a seal, see how that works out.
    They look amazing though!
    Click image for larger version Name:	20250823_134804.jpg Views:	0 Size:	68.0 KB ID:	431263
    Haven't got the outer piece glued on yet, have to mix up some paint and doctor up the inner piece first..
    You know, it just occurred to me that you could 3D print one of those battery trays, hmmmm....

    Grossman56
    (Dangerous Dan)
    Hi Dan: I didn't run the gear down on my Corsair to see what mine looks like, but I did put the two extra parts together that I have and will go on each of your outer wheel halves. The thin ring that goes on top of the part that you have the photograph of is a bit larger in diameter and I think should confom to the area around the tire when you attach it to the wheel. I'm pretty sure that's how mine is on my Corsair and I have had two years since it was installed with no problems at all in operations.

    Let me know how it goes when you glue the outer rim on over the part you have already installed.

    Cheers

    Davegee

    Leave a comment:


  • Grossman56
    replied
    Thanks Elbee, I plan on doing another complete set for the spare L/G once I get the Robarts in. I ordered a complete retract/strut set with the larger pins, the plan being to fly this season with the original ones and change them over during the Winter, then I can modify the originals to the upgraded pin size, assuming they survive until then May need another set of bushings as well.
    At the field last week:
    Click image for larger version  Name:	20250817_111154.jpg Views:	0 Size:	229.6 KB ID:	431321Grossman56
    (Dangerous Dan)

    Leave a comment:


  • jetfool
    replied
    Dangerous,
    All of Elbee"s 3-d parts were added to my Corsair and I believe this realism added to winning at Toledo.

    Leave a comment:


  • Elbee
    commented on 's reply
    You can increase the diameter a smidge in the slicer. In this case in x and y only which means you'll want to turn off the z.

  • Grossman56
    replied
    Industrial strength Velcro my friend! And you can buy the velcro straps all at Wally World. If one isn't big enough, combine two.

    I'm in the process of installing Elbee's wheel caps on her, they printed a bit small, but I used some Silicone sealer Click image for larger version  Name:	20250823_134845.jpg Views:	0 Size:	66.6 KB ID:	431262 around the edges to form a seal, see how that works out.
    They look amazing though!
    Click image for larger version  Name:	20250823_134804.jpg Views:	0 Size:	68.0 KB ID:	431263
    Haven't got the outer piece glued on yet, have to mix up some paint and doctor up the inner piece first..
    You know, it just occurred to me that you could 3D print one of those battery trays, hmmmm....

    Grossman56
    (Dangerous Dan)

    Leave a comment:


  • Aros
    replied
    Originally posted by Grossman56 View Post
    Thanks Rex, I'll take a look, Todd, if you need any help, let me know, keep 'em flying!

    Grossman56
    (Dangerous Dan)
    Well I ended buying really thick poster board, glued two pieces together for extra strength, measured the area, cut it out, cut out the holes for the battery strap (turns out I didn't have a spare one of those either, sheesh I'm a mess, lol), ended up strapping a mini bungee cord in its place...It's a real crap show let me tell you!

    Leave a comment:


  • Grossman56
    replied
    Thanks Rex, I'll take a look, Todd, if you need any help, let me know, keep 'em flying!

    Grossman56
    (Dangerous Dan)

    Leave a comment:


  • Aros
    replied
    Thanks Grossman56, I appreciate that, however I did find some material and was just going to make my own. Thanks again!

    Leave a comment:


  • jetfool
    replied
    Dangerous Dan,
    If I remember right Elbee designed, and I had the HS kids print them for me. Believe the STL file is in this forum somewhere. They are more scale than the Robarts.

    Best Regards, Rex

    Leave a comment:


  • Grossman56
    replied
    Hey Aros, I don't have a spare, but if you want, I'll pull mine and get you the dimensions. I can trace it and send it to you as well if that will help. I know I had to do that with the Avanti, just measured and cut to make a new one.
    Speaking of pieces you can't buy separately, does anyone have a spare Robart wheel cover? The spoked cap like i the picture??
    Click image for larger version

Name:	20250405_091958.jpg
Views:	284
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ID:	430963
    One of mine departed the airplane, actually both did but I found one.
    Anyway, I'll reimburse you if you have one you could part with.

    Grossman56
    (Dangerous Dan)

    Leave a comment:


  • Aros
    replied
    Any of you gents have a spare battery tray for this bird? Don't ask me how but I have misplaced mine. Not even sure why I would have ever taken it out (maybe to put in a larger strap comes vaguely to mind) but there you have it.

    Appreciate any help!

    Leave a comment:


  • davegee
    replied
    Originally posted by Fast N Light View Post

    In recent years, all my Freewing/Flightline planes have some clear CA like material on the axles and grub screws. I assume they do it intentionally to ensure the gear does not come loose on it's own.

    Applying heat has consistently freed the components for me. Depending on the geometry, heat gun, butane pen torch and solder iron have worked. Be careful to not over do it or to roast the plastics nearby. I use aluminum foil or cardboard to shield the heat from wheels/foam and have the allen key installed when heating.

    Once they are free, acetone cleans off the remaining residue. Blue Locktite is a must on the reinstalled grub screws.​
    totally agree with your methods, Fast N Light. I've used them myself for years.

    Cheers

    Davegee

    Leave a comment:


  • Joe Hockey
    replied
    Thanks guys , good tips will try protected heat .

    Leave a comment:


  • Fast N Light
    replied
    Originally posted by Joe Hockey View Post

    Curious on what process you used to remove the set screws from the existing struts ? Its the one crutch that fry’s me with Flightline and red style lock tight on every set screw .
    In recent years, all my Freewing/Flightline planes have some clear CA like material on the axles and grub screws. I assume they do it intentionally to ensure the gear does not come loose on it's own.

    Applying heat has consistently freed the components for me. Depending on the geometry, heat gun, butane pen torch and solder iron have worked. Be careful to not over do it or to roast the plastics nearby. I use aluminum foil or cardboard to shield the heat from wheels/foam and have the allen key installed when heating.

    Once they are free, acetone cleans off the remaining residue. Blue Locktite is a must on the reinstalled grub screws.​

    Leave a comment:


  • Grossman56
    replied
    A good set of wrenches is like gold!

    Heat has been used to loosen the set screws, a soldering iron with a narrow tip helps. I don't know whether there is any kind of solvent that would help. Most set screws I've dealt with have been the blue colored lock-tite.
    Anyone else have any advice?

    Grossman56
    (Dangerous Dan)

    Leave a comment:


  • Joe Hockey
    replied
    Originally posted by Grossman56 View Post
    I actually bought a complete set of replacement retracts with the larger pins.



    I plan on buying the replacement trunions with the larger pins



    that you can install in the existing retracts as well, which I'll probably do in the Winter. As for the existing struts, I should be able to drill them out to the larger size so I'll end up with two complete upgraded sets of retracts for my Corsair. Getting used to her and zeroing in on the trims has improved my flights with this plane tremendously, I've got to the point where she flies a lot like the Flightline Bearcat, which was always a favorite of mine.
    Failing to find an aluminum side replacement for the retract casings, I've started to put a couple of tight winds of electrical tape around the point where they seem to like to crack in order to add some strength, not a lot of room in the wing so a couple of winds is about all that will fit.
    Good news is that she really isn't a hard bird to land and the Robart tires help a lot too.

    Grossman56
    (Dangerous Dan)
    Curious on what process you used to remove the set screws from the existing struts ? Its the one crutch that fry’s me with Flightline and red style lock tight on every set screw .

    Leave a comment:


  • Joe Hockey
    replied
    Thanks guys . A few processes I left out .
    When soldering the wires , I put down aluminum foil to protect the foam as well as when I used a lighter to heat the shrink tubing. When splitting the wires that runs into the wing I used a mini piece of plywood as a cutting board so splitting the retract wire is easy when supported.
    Test your “wire skinning skills” on a dead servo wire so you know what size hole to use when cleaning off the wire . In practicing I lost an 1” of wire until I got the process down , then it was super easy.
    My real name is Lou ( or as seen on RCG as LDM , my friends called me Joe Hockey from my coaching days lol 😀

    Leave a comment:


  • Grossman56
    replied
    I actually bought a complete set of replacement retracts with the larger pins.



    I plan on buying the replacement trunions with the larger pins



    that you can install in the existing retracts as well, which I'll probably do in the Winter. As for the existing struts, I should be able to drill them out to the larger size so I'll end up with two complete upgraded sets of retracts for my Corsair. Getting used to her and zeroing in on the trims has improved my flights with this plane tremendously, I've got to the point where she flies a lot like the Flightline Bearcat, which was always a favorite of mine.
    Failing to find an aluminum side replacement for the retract casings, I've started to put a couple of tight winds of electrical tape around the point where they seem to like to crack in order to add some strength, not a lot of room in the wing so a couple of winds is about all that will fit.
    Good news is that she really isn't a hard bird to land and the Robart tires help a lot too.

    Grossman56
    (Dangerous Dan)

    Leave a comment:

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