So after 4 or so years of flawless performance of this model, one mistake has created some interesting problems . Poor field conditions along with high water on the field created a nose over at high speed prior to liftoff . What appeared to be a damaged free model led to system check and a potential loose magnet . Heavy clicking on on run up so it was time to take it home and inspect the magnets.
Unfortunately while i have the skill to fix loose magnets , I always struggle with dislodging the red type LockTight used by the factory . So unable to disassemble the motor my assumption ( bad magnet ) so ordered a new one.
New motor along with motor mount arrived, I installed it and went to fly again .
Despite at home testing my taxi was appearing to be sluggish and barely more than stall speed. Bad decisions started now with my attempt to fly , gain altitude and circled back for an emergency landing. Listening to the loud clicking as I passed for a landing worse case occurs the dreaded stall . The retracts take the damage as always noted, and now retracting like chocking frog on a giant fly lol .
So back to the shop again , this time I replace the esc and this time on a watt meter and secured my motor is indeed at full power.
Now onto the retracts . In 4 or so years I only replaced one side one time so I think I am lucky vs what I have read in the various threads.
I am sure the thread will think I am nuts but I felt like this plane is a great model and the retracts should not be a PIA every time something happens.
So 2 goals
1) attempt to fix the gear while waiting on new gear
2) make a easy to remove retract connection.
step one
a) disassemble the retracts , wrap the drive screw in thick felt and attempt to straighten without damaging the screw
b) use oil not grease on the shaft drive screw
c) test and adjust as needed with ( the next step completed servo connection close to the retract)
d) reassemble
e) add a male and female servo connection at the retract base
At this stage my confidence is nil that this mod will work so I dont do the obvious ( add shrink tube on the retract side before soldering. Testing proved me wrong and sure enough the drive screw was straight enought to retract multiple times without issue.
So from this point on when needed my retracts will be replaced at the retract with a simple servo connection the way the factory should have made this model.
In closing I I tend to believe that my larger wheels have allowed my retracts to last longer then most . The wheels provide more cushion on those harder landings.
Love your thinking, Joe! Replacing retracts on this airplane, and flap servos, aileron servos,etc., on some other planes too, is a TOTAL PIA! Even more than the Flightline Corsair, the FMS P-47D could definitely use this technique. I also have been lucky in the 5+ years that I have had my Corsair, changing out retract servos has not happened much, maybe one or two. But I'll definitely consider this mod for the Corsair and other planes in the future. I had not thought of that. Good headwork!
So after 4 or so years of flawless performance of this model, one mistake has created some interesting problems . Poor field conditions along with high water on the field created a nose over at high speed prior to liftoff . What appeared to be a damaged free model led to system check and a potential loose magnet . Heavy clicking on on run up so it was time to take it home and inspect the magnets.
Unfortunately while i have the skill to fix loose magnets , I always struggle with dislodging the red type LockTight used by the factory . So unable to disassemble the motor my assumption ( bad magnet ) so ordered a new one.
New motor along with motor mount arrived, I installed it and went to fly again .
Despite at home testing my taxi was appearing to be sluggish and barely more than stall speed. Bad decisions started now with my attempt to fly , gain altitude and circled back for an emergency landing. Listening to the loud clicking as I passed for a landing worse case occurs the dreaded stall . The retracts take the damage as always noted, and now retracting like chocking frog on a giant fly lol .
So back to the shop again , this time I replace the esc and this time on a watt meter and secured my motor is indeed at full power.
Now onto the retracts . In 4 or so years I only replaced one side one time so I think I am lucky vs what I have read in the various threads.
I am sure the thread will think I am nuts but I felt like this plane is a great model and the retracts should not be a PIA every time something happens.
So 2 goals
1) attempt to fix the gear while waiting on new gear
2) make a easy to remove retract connection.
step one
a) disassemble the retracts , wrap the drive screw in thick felt and attempt to straighten without damaging the screw
b) use oil not grease on the shaft drive screw
c) test and adjust as needed with ( the next step completed servo connection close to the retract)
d) reassemble
e) add a male and female servo connection at the retract base
At this stage my confidence is nil that this mod will work so I dont do the obvious ( add shrink tube on the retract side before soldering. Testing proved me wrong and sure enough the drive screw was straight enought to retract multiple times without issue.
So from this point on when needed my retracts will be replaced at the retract with a simple servo connection the way the factory should have made this model.
In closing I I tend to believe that my larger wheels have allowed my retracts to last longer then most . The wheels provide more cushion on those harder landings.
I wonder if you couldn't rig those cowl flaps with a light spring so that the wind would flatten them while in flight and they would open as you slowed down?
Elbee, what do you think?
Grossman56
(Dangerous Dan)
All,
That was my original thought and design.
Worked perfectly, though finding expansion springs that fit was tricky.
Ace Hardware had these and as I wrote worked quite well.
I later figured why not 'go for it' and make those 'servo driven'.
A bit fiddly at first, but once I added a sliding arm part, these worked awesome, as well.
The design on Prusa Printables is for 'spring loaded' cowl flaps.
I wonder if you couldn't rig those cowl flaps with a light spring so that the wind would flatten them while in flight and they would open as you slowed down?
Elbee, what do you think?
Thanks Dave! We can thank our good friend Elbee for those cowl flaps. Sadly I lack the ingenuity and skillset to make them operational so they are static only. I just love the way they look. With some luck they will help me fly better!
😆
They certainly look the part, that's for sure!! Nice job!
Nice looking plane, Aros! I especially like the cowl flaps and the parachute straps over the shoulders of the pilot. Very believable!
Are your cowl flaps rigged to move in the wind or motorized in some way?
Good luck on your next sortie.
Cheers
Davegee
Thanks Dave! We can thank our good friend Elbee for those cowl flaps. Sadly I lack the ingenuity and skillset to make them operational so they are static only. I just love the way they look. With some luck they will help me fly better!
Got down to business today, took Dangerous Dan on 5 missions and completed them successfully!
She flew great now that I'm zeroing in on the rates and trim. I'm running 60% midrates which seems pretty good. What I'll do is set the low rates to 60 and the mids to 63 and compare, like going to the eye doctor, "Is it better here or here", you know what eye mean
Yes, an out runner bell offset will let the magnets hit the commutator (windings). If you look at the prop hum at the very tip running slowly is it rotating straight?
Good thought but would that create clicking ? With the new motor installed and shaft and backplate , we will see this week . If I still have issues then its the ESC lol
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