Freewing Old Crow

[Jet Fixer]

These I have just started using, I originally got them for my 8s corsair. But most of my packs I get at least 2 years out of them (mostly 6s) but they still are strong. Hopefully I'll get more of an idea of their longevity later on. But as of now most of these particular packs only have 1 or 2 flights on them each

How are you making out with your Ovonic 4500 batteries? I bought 2 in October and they are already showing signs of wear. IR on one of the cells in each has gone to over 45m ohms while the other three cells are below 5m ohms. Only flown them about 5 times. Not thrilled with them right now. Seller is refunding my money at least.

[rifleman_btx]

Wow, mine still seem fine. So far, still am landing at 3.8v per cell. Sucks you're having that kind of problem, because that's a huge deal. Not sure what I would be doing any different.

[Tgutz]

Has anybody run 5S on the stock setup? I’ve read a few reviews on motion RC that said the 5S packs worked out the CG and add performance but they didn’t specify if they were running a stock setup. Looking to order one and will go for the 5S setup.

[rifleman_btx]

With mine on 4s I can put it in a climb until the battery shuts off if I wanted to. Had no reason to go 5s or more.

[Grossman56]

Freewing P-51's are always so much fun! I am now having trouble with the clam shell doors getting hung up on the wheels when retracting in the air. On the ground they work fine. In the air PITA!
So, I got playing around with the pushrods and backed them out about 3 turns and tried them on the bench. This time, the doors wouldn't fully retract, so I was going to turn the clevis' back in when I decided, instead, to try the next hole up on the clam shell doors. Now this seems to work as it pulls them in flush and extends them to almost vertical. I think what happens is that the doors flutter when in flight as they aren't very thick or aerodynamic. Hopefully, this will solve the problem. Anyone else run across this.
BTW, I moved the CG back slightly and it seemed to help quite a bit, running now between 105 mm and 110 mm (as the book recommends, duh) I don't know how I decided to run so nose heavy, old guy brain I guess.

Grossman56

[Jet Fixer]

Freewing P-51's are always so much fun! I am now having trouble with the clam shell doors getting hung up on the wheels when retracting in the air. On the ground they work fine. In the air PITA!
So, I got playing around with the pushrods and backed them out about 3 turns and tried them on the bench. This time, the doors wouldn't fully retract, so I was going to turn the clevis' back in when I decided, instead, to try the next hole up on the clam shell doors. Now this seems to work as it pulls them in flush and extends them to almost vertical. I think what happens is that the doors flutter when in flight as they aren't very thick or aerodynamic. Hopefully, this will solve the problem. Anyone else run across this.
BTW, I moved the CG back slightly and it seemed to help quite a bit, running now between 105 mm and 110 mm (as the book recommends, duh) I don't know how I decided to run so nose heavy, old guy brain I guess.

Grossman56

Mine does exactly the same thing. Been fighting it for three years. Never have been able to get them to work right. I ended up taking the main doors off completely. They will retract if you get real slow. I get as slow as possible with full flaps and start a gentle climb which bleeds off even more speed. When I start climbing I cycle the gear and it usually goes up. My theory is that the doors are angled out slightly and act like scoops which slow the gear down enough that they dont get closed before the inboard doors go up.

[Grossman56]

It's too bad that you can't alter the timing somehow so that the clam shell doors delay longer to allow the gear to get up. Your theory sounds good but what the heck do you do? I was thinking of just eliminating the clam shell doors.
I guess its possible that over time the gear doors warp from the sun or the plastic just getting old, the problem is that in order to replace a gear door, you have to buy the whole set, gear doors , clam shell doors and tail wheel doors. One pin on a gear door breaks and I have a bunch of spares. I probably have 8 sets of spare doors that I have no need of.

Grossman56

[Jet Fixer]

I know what you are saying about the doors. I figured out a way to repair my broken pins with a nail and a balsa block. Paint it all silver when I’m done and you never know the difference. It seems to work pretty well.

[Grossman56]

I see what you're saying, I'll try that! Last time I went looking for a door that still had the pin that I needed and actually found one. I cut out a square around the pin then used the cut out piece as a template to cut the door with the missing pin. Glued the cut out piece onto the gear door with the piece I just cut out and lo and behold it worked!
Hopefully you understand that! But when pins are missing, I like your idea !

Grossman56

[Jet Fixer]

This is my fix

[Grossman56]

Looks good, I'll try that, I was downstairs cleaning up a bit and now have a big drawer dedicated to gear doors. I'm sure I can do the same as you did. What glue did you use btw.

Grossman56

[Jet Fixer]

Looks good, I'll try that, I was downstairs cleaning up a bit and now have a big drawer dedicated to gear doors. I'm sure I can do the same as you did. What glue did you use btw.

Grossman56

Gorilla CA

[Grossman56]

Wow, been a long time. For some unexplained reason, but probably old guy brain, the CG was suddenly way off for My Little Gal. I remeasured to 105mm and removed all the weight in the front nose, moved the battery back about an inch and achieved the CG. She flies great at that, but with one problem, when I retract the gear, the tailwheel will cant over and get hung up on the outside of the fuse, I have to apply left rudder to get her to tuck in, it comes out straight enough, but most of the time I get this retraction problem, I've tried adjusting everything, to no avail. Anyone else have this, if so how did you fix it??

Grossman56

[deadbug]

Hey Grossman!
It has been a long time…
Mine used to do that until I put the tailwheel on a separate channel…which also stopped the binding in the wheel well when retracted and using rudder. I think something in the tailwheel linkage binds when using rudder. Once I did this years ago, never had a bit of trouble since.

[Jet Fixer]

Wow, been a long time. For some unexplained reason, but probably old guy brain, the CG was suddenly way off for My Little Gal. I remeasured to 105mm and removed all the weight in the front nose, moved the battery back about an inch and achieved the CG. She flies great at that, but with one problem, when I retract the gear, the tailwheel will cant over and get hung up on the outside of the fuse, I have to apply left rudder to get her to tuck in, it comes out straight enough, but most of the time I get this retraction problem, I've tried adjusting everything, to no avail. Anyone else have this, if so how did you fix it??

Grossman56

Mine does the same thing. Not sure why but I think it is the rigging of the tail wheel and rudder linkage.

[Jet Fixer]

Does anyone have a suggestion for ESC timing setting on a stock setup? I just got an ESC programming card and found that the timing is set to Low. I have always felt that he performance was lacking on this bird and now believe it may be a timing issue. I've asked on some FB pages and everyone has a different opinion. Any thoughts?

[Grossman56]

I had to change the timing for my RV8 and did it on the radio. DX8 Servos/throttle/timing. if that helps
Grossman56

[Jet Fixer]

I had to change the timing for my RV8 and did it on the radio. DX8 Servos/throttle/timing. if that helps
Grossman56

What timing are you running in the Old Crow?

[Grossman56]

My Old Crow is running a 650kv motor with an 85A Mantis ESC, so different than the stock setup.

Grossman56

[Puregreen7]

Hello, can someone measure the diameter of the spinner on the Old Crow for me?

Thanks.