Official FlightLine RC 1200mm F8F-1 Bearcat Thread

[Alpha]

Looks great, Pat! That's how I've set mine up regarding the blue box.

[Grossman56]

Well, now that I have the electronics worked out and everything installed, I put the decals on tonight then gave her the first coat of Varathane. What a difference that makes!! I find that two, maybe three coats with a foam brush will get me where I want to be. I did the Blue Angels scheme, no surprise there as that was what I first suggested, and that coupled with a coat of shine, beautiful!
The pilot, BTW, is your stock WWII Freewing guy and he looks scale so the difference between the FW P51's and the Bearcat is minimal.
Guys, if this plane flies as good as it looks, they've knocked another one out of the ball park!!

Grossman56

[Dewey H Lee]

Sometimes that's the way things are on a shared negative control board.

[Grossman56]

I put mine on the port (pilots left) side wall, the receiver upside down on the top of the fuse, in line with the blue box, then the A3L on the starboard side. Worked great, nice and compact, just make sure everything is working before attaching the receiver as its going to be hard to get at the wires once its in position. Nice thing about this is that all the boxes are sitting on the cg.

Grossman56

[crxmanpat]

Here's how I did mine. The Aileron, Flap, and Landing Gear plugs all go into the blue box. Throttle, Elevator, and Rudder go directly into the RX, along with the output wires from the blue box. I velcro'd my RX to sit right next to my blue box which comes with 3M foam tape attached.

[flyingiceberg]

How about some pictures of where the blue box and receiver is mounted? looking for some ideas

[flyingiceberg]

Hi Guys! To clear the air on the "Blue Box" issue, we will be changing the description in the manual in future printings. The box is only meant to serve as a wing wiring connector to alleviate the mess of using three "Y" connectors. It has three outputs, for the ailerons, flaps, and retracts. The inputs for the elevator and rudder are not used, and these will plug directly into your receiver. I hope everybody enjoys flying the Bearcat as much as I have. From the scale, full flap, three point carrier landings, to the great vertical and over the top performance, this is one beautiful bird to fly.

On my blue box the aileron and flap plugs only have one wire each. With a Servo tester no response. I assume it's not supposed to be this way. Am I correct?


nevermind. When I plug the gear, aileron, and flaps in the tester at the same time, everything worked. I guess somehow the gear completes the circuit

Once I plugged everything into the receiver the ailerons and flaps will not work.

[OV10]

https://www.motionrc.com/products/gr...es-c-g-machine When I see fingers to balance an airplane, I always show people this. I know, you know what your doing; I just want other to see the correct machine for properly balancing an aircraft. PEACE Matt

AAAAWWWWWW.............. Now why are ya pickin on Ryan. ;)

http://www.hobbysquawk.com/forum/rc-airplanes/propeller-airplanes/44849-official-announcement-flightline-1200mm-f8f-1-bearcat?p=50371#post50371

[starcop]

https://www.motionrc.com/products/gr...es-c-g-machine When I see fingers to balance an airplane, I always show people this. I know, you know what your doing; I just want other to see the correct machine for properly balancing an aircraft. PEACE Matt

[Kloverzero]

Hi Guys! To clear the air on the "Blue Box" issue, we will be changing the description in the manual in future printings. The box is only meant to serve as a wing wiring connector to alleviate the mess of using three "Y" connectors. It has three outputs, for the ailerons, flaps, and retracts. The inputs for the elevator and rudder are not used, and these will plug directly into your receiver. I hope everybody enjoys flying the Bearcat as much as I have. From the scale, full flap, three point carrier landings, to the great vertical and over the top performance, this is one beautiful bird to fly.

[Grossman56]

As Charlie said, on with the Bearcat related stuff.
Right out of the box, this plane has THE best finish I've ever seen on any of my planes. A pretty straight forward build with the exception of the aforementioned controller box. I found the tail assembly and wing assembly to be pretty tight, so a little light pressure and careful placement of the pieces as they slide into the fuse is in order. Watch the gear doors, open them as Ryan mentioned in the build video and make life easy on yourself and drop the gear down before inserting the wings.
Trust me....
Once assembled, check control surfaces for proper direction, prop on (what a beautiful design that prop is!)
Took it for a taxi down the basement, WOW does she track beautifully.
This plane does not disappoint, guys. The battery hatch is cavernous, had no problem getting everything inside. The one thing I did notice is that the wire coming out of the controller box for the aileron was a little short as I stuck the box on the port side of the fuse and the gyro sits flat on the starboard, so I used a small extension to give a bit of slack, no problem if you aren't going with a gyro. Heck, they even give you a piece of that rubber drawer liner to help seat the battery!
So, after working the challenges out, which really, were pretty easy once pointed in the right direction, I'm totally impressed, well worth the wait!!
Now, if she flies as well as she looks........
My first Flightline aircraft and I have seen all of them with the exception of the TA 152. These are top notch quality kits and won't be my last.

Grossman56

[Grossman56]

Yes, it took me about three minutes and the plane is good, I get three position flaps now, I went into wing type, and lo and behold, I hadn't scrolled down that far before.
Anyways, to recap, the controller box is good for gear, flaps and ailerons but ailerons and rudder get plugged directly into the receiver, or in my case, the A3L.
It is a handy although strange box.

Grossman56

[OV10]

Yeah, I posted the pics here on the inbox, so check it out.
I'll see if the Motion R/C guys will chime in on this. Also, I was asking you about the flap control (in my message to you) an thought I'd put it out to all. I am using a DX8 (old version) and I usually don't have any problem getting the three position flap switch to work. However, with this plane, I get only landing flaps and no take off flaps. I've set up flaps for my other planes so I copied the ones from BBD just to see if it would work, but nothing. The sub trim will not move them either. When you go into the servo adjust and try to set Aux 1 (flap channel) I can switch from position '0' to position '1' and it twitches slightly but on the monitor you cans see the slide moving to the middle position. If I go to position '2' it will drop to landing flaps and I can adjust that, just can't get take off flaps.
As I e=mentioned to Charlie, if I scroll the menu down to 'flaps' and select it, it says inhibit and I haven't figured out how to activate it. Any help would be appreciated.

Grossman56

Here was my response to Dan in the PM so others can use the info if they are "manual challenged"(like most guys that don't read the instructions) so as not to pollute this thread a with lot of non Bearcat related stuff.

Your flap problem is systemic, that is why you aren't getting the correct(or no) responses from the flap switch. You have to initialize the flap operation not thru servo adjust but through the flap menu that you still have inhibited. In order to activate you need to go to System Setup, then select Aircraft Type. Then you select what kind of wing configuration you have which is usually 1 aileron, 1 flap(trust me) selected from a bunch of options. I said trust me because if you select the actual physical count of servos controlling the surfaces it will mess you up too. Details are somewhat explained in the manual. After doing this then normalize your servo adjust settings for flaps back to 100/100. The actual throws are adjusted in the now assessable flaps menu that was inhibited before. Reference the manual.

[Grossman56]

Okay guys, just dropped a note to Mark Tom and Aros, so lets give them a chance to chime in on the discussion, I'm thinking this is something that shouldn't have got through Beta testing, so there must be an answer. Ryan talks about the same box in the TA 152 build video at about 2:40 if you're interested.

Grossman56

[Grossman56]

Yeah, I posted the pics here on the inbox, so check it out.
I'll see if the Motion R/C guys will chime in on this. Also, I was asking you about the flap control (in my message to you) an thought I'd put it out to all. I am using a DX8 (old version) and I usually don't have any problem getting the three position flap switch to work. However, with this plane, I get only landing flaps and no take off flaps. I've set up flaps for my other planes so I copied the ones from BBD just to see if it would work, but nothing. The sub trim will not move them either. When you go into the servo adjust and try to set Aux 1 (flap channel) I can switch from position '0' to position '1' and it twitches slightly but on the monitor you cans see the slide moving to the middle position. If I go to position '2' it will drop to landing flaps and I can adjust that, just can't get take off flaps.
As I e=mentioned to Charlie, if I scroll the menu down to 'flaps' and select it, it says inhibit and I haven't figured out how to activate it. Any help would be appreciated.

Grossman56

[Dewey H Lee]

I'm really interested in hearing how the others have handled this. Maybe there was a QA mistake on yours Dan. Interesting. I was thinking about getting one but all the headaches I've had with the sniper I don't want to jump on another plane with trouble even if it's another brand with 2 still in the box..

[OV10]

Dan,
The pics you've shown of the actual hardware(control box) is/appears to be not what is depicted in the manual..........that is just wrong. If it was as shown in the manual there should/would be no issue for guys like you and MANY others. Personally I would be saying WTF and this needs to be corrected and made right to the consumer. As I do a majority of the time on new releases, I let the "oh a shiny new whatever" buyers do the beta testing so as to not go through the aggravation of wringing out the "new release" issues and buy six months after the issues have been identified and remedied either by the manufacturer or various mods. I will be watching this control box issue closely to see where it goes.
Good luck on getting it resolved my friend,

[Grossman56]

I only plugged the gear and flaps into that box and used a separate y harness for the ailerons. Mine had 3 outputs (gear, flaps, ailerons) but the aileron output didn't work. The rudder and elevator go directly to the receiver.

I got my ailerons to work by flipping the plug so that the yellow was plugged in the opposite way. I tend to wonder as well just why this box? I mean, I do like the concept of one box that everything can plug in and out of, eliminating y harnesses, but again, I don't understand why I would plug the rudder and elevator into it when there is no output, very strange...

Grossman56

[Grossman56]

Dan,
The assembly manual on page 7 clearly shows that there are two sides on top(outputs) where you see the FlightLine logo and then opposite of that logo on the end of the case is five(5) connectors(inputs) that you hook leads to from the receiver. Can't understand your confusion :huh:

You would think, but where the diagram shows the (5) connectors(inputs) they don't exist. there are only a single yellow wire coming out for the flaps, a single yellow wire coming out for the ailerons and a triple wire coming out for the L/G( all three hardwired internally). So where are the outputs for the rudder and elevator?
What I ended up doing is taking Ryan's advice and bypassing the box for everything but the L/G, flaps and ailerons and that seems to work. Just can't figure out why you would plug the rudder and elevator in when there is no output?? Here's two pics of the bottom that Charlie is describing.

Grossman56

[dkalwishky]

Doesn't look necessary to me, I think connecting up the items going to the control box with "Y" connectors should work fine.