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Official FlightLine RC 1200mm F8F-1 Bearcat Thread

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  • Grossman56
    replied
    I haven't yet, but they're right where I can find them...
    I just hate to cut into something that is working, once I see the controls are starting to back off, I may, but the Foam-Tac does such an amazing job..............

    Grossman56

    Leave a comment:


  • Mad Baron
    replied
    Has anyone used the plastic hinges that comes with the Bearcat?

    Leave a comment:


  • Grossman56
    replied
    Yes, its water based. Now, the latest stuff I've tried is the Minwax Spar Urethane Indoor/Outdoor Gloss and its the 'glossiest' I've found so far!
    Note: If you apply any of these clear coats with an air brush, the result will be duller than if you use a brush. So use a brush when going for shine and the air brush when going for flat.
    I used Minwax matte finish on the Spitty.

    Grossman56

    Leave a comment:


  • Bob Symes
    replied
    Originally posted by Grossman56 View Post
    Hey Boomer, that stuff is amazing, the surface feels stronger, and a UV protectant. Three coats with a 1" foam brush, and she glows.
    You can see how, what the word, unimpressive(?) the surface looks in dull blue, but put a coat of Spar Varathane on and WOW! It's like polishing an old dull car back to new again. Just look at the before and after shots.

    Grossman56
    Hi Grossman56,
    is the spar varathane you use water based and for outdoor use? Trying to find a similar product in Aus to do my FL P38 and Tigercat.
    thanks
    Bob

    Leave a comment:


  • rifleman_btx
    replied
    Originally posted by Grossman56 View Post
    Okay, so it's agreed, first the:arrow: OV-10:Cool:, then the :arrow:1600 mm Bearcat:P, then a:arrow: 1600 Hellcat;)................

    PAGING ALPHA !!!!!LOL:Gift::Gift::bluelove

    Grossman56:Kiss:
    Yes, within the next 12 months. If they got the Yorktown fully operational in 3 days, you can do this.

    Leave a comment:


  • Mad Baron
    replied
    Originally posted by Grossman56 View Post
    Hey MB, sorry for the loss, I can relate as mine went in at Nefi last year due to a wet gyro from the monsoon the first night. I had an aileron go South on her as well so out with the Foam-Tac and it worked great! I keep an eye on the 'rebuilt' Bearcat and make sure to get a good coat of Varathane or Minwax in the slots to help hold it together.
    The old parallax syndrome is a PITA, an the best way I know to overcome it is to watch your stick inputs. Even though it looks like its going one way, my inputs tell me different. It works like reading instruments versus relying on the seat of your pants when flying blind.
    Good thing they aren't an expensive airplane relatively speaking and you'll have a source of spare parts as well.
    One thing I wish they'd come up with is an upgrade for the landing gear. The Bearcat could use some shock absorbers.

    Grossman56
    I am going to be sure the hinge points have a good coating of foam tac as I don't want to replay the incident again, walking thru tall grass and jumping ditches to get to the plane is no fun at all! I plan to pull all the electronics for spares. I would keep the airframe but its too messed up to use any parts.

    Leave a comment:


  • Grossman56
    replied
    Okay, so it's agreed, first the:arrow: OV-10:Cool:, then the :arrow:1600 mm Bearcat:P, then a:arrow: 1600 Hellcat;)................

    PAGING ALPHA !!!!!LOL:Gift::Gift::bluelove

    Grossman56:Kiss:

    Leave a comment:


  • rifleman_btx
    replied
    I would be happy with a 1600mm F6F hellcat.

    Leave a comment:


  • Beeg
    replied
    LOL! Don't we all! With scale landing gear! :Cool:

    Leave a comment:


  • OV10
    replied
    I want an FL 1600 Bearcat :Cool: after the 1700 Drooling:

    Leave a comment:


  • Grossman56
    replied
    Hey MB, sorry for the loss, I can relate as mine went in at Nefi last year due to a wet gyro from the monsoon the first night. I had an aileron go South on her as well so out with the Foam-Tac and it worked great! I keep an eye on the 'rebuilt' Bearcat and make sure to get a good coat of Varathane or Minwax in the slots to help hold it together.
    The old parallax syndrome is a PITA, an the best way I know to overcome it is to watch your stick inputs. Even though it looks like its going one way, my inputs tell me different. It works like reading instruments versus relying on the seat of your pants when flying blind.
    Good thing they aren't an expensive airplane relatively speaking and you'll have a source of spare parts as well.
    One thing I wish they'd come up with is an upgrade for the landing gear. The Bearcat could use some shock absorbers.

    Grossman56

    Leave a comment:


  • rifleman_btx
    replied
    Indeed, and good deal

    Leave a comment:


  • Mad Baron
    replied
    I'm upset that it crashed but that's the way it goes. These planes are on borrowed time as soon as the box is opened. I do have another Bearcat kit to put together I bought about a year ago so I will have another cat to fly again.

    Leave a comment:


  • rifleman_btx
    replied
    Awe man that suck, sorry man :(

    Leave a comment:


  • Mad Baron
    replied
    Had a bit of bad luck today. My Bearcat is no more it got too far from me and couldn't tell exactly which way it was going and it fell out the sky. When I made my way to the wreckage one aileron was separated from the wing and I don't know if it came loose in flight or the impact crash. :(

    Leave a comment:


  • Builda
    replied
    Have FINALLY found the problem.....Was the BEC all along......it wasn’t big enough! I guess we all have blonde moments, that was mine lol. I found it when I hooked up my 2 brand new (just arrived today) retracts and they only went in one direction as usual, yet with just one connected it worked fine-so I tried a 5a BEC instead and that fixed it. I’m tempted now to get a 10a one for that plane, although in theory I suppose it shouldn’t need it. At least I solved it. As for all the retracts here with broken microswitches, I’m gonna re wire them to be used with that seperate controller I have. Thanks to everyone who contributed 10c toward me solving this issue-and if you ever need to buy just the retract unit on its own (without the landing leg) I got them dirt cheap from Hobby-paradise.com. Part number E814. Everywhere else only sold them as a complete unit (complete with legs). Guess I have a few spares now lol.

    Leave a comment:


  • OV10
    replied
    Originally posted by Builda View Post

    I love that idea, I have one of those controllers here too-I’m sure I will be able to get at least one working pair out of all the broken ones here! Tell me, does that controller operate them slower also?
    The controller(both internal or external) does not control the operational speed of a retract.
    Speed is controlled by TPI of the worm drive screw and motor rpm.

    There has been a long established thread( started 5 years ago) about retract controller upgrades under the RCG label of FMS 1700mm retract mod (stock and all metal upgrade)
    I was a contributor to it 2 years ago.
    Radfordc's June 2017 posting uses the exact same principle.:Cool:

    Leave a comment:


  • radfordc
    replied
    Originally posted by Builda View Post

    I love that idea, I have one of those controllers here too-I’m sure I will be able to get at least one working pair out of all the broken ones here! Tell me, does that controller operate them slower also?
    That one doesn't, but I think that there are some that do.

    Leave a comment:


  • Builda
    replied
    Originally posted by radfordc View Post
    One solution is to get rid of the microswitches and the internal retract control board. Here is how I did it: https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...postcount=1044
    I love that idea, I have one of those controllers here too-I’m sure I will be able to get at least one working pair out of all the broken ones here! Tell me, does that controller operate them slower also?

    Leave a comment:


  • radfordc
    replied
    One solution is to get rid of the microswitches and the internal retract control board. Here is how I did it: https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...postcount=1044

    Leave a comment:

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