Official FlightLine RC 1200mm F8F-1 Bearcat Thread

[fhhuber]

Retract doors are sources of perpetual need to adjust linkages. Part of life with "complex" models.

[hotrod23t]

i just have to touch my doors and thay just snap shut your doors are not binding right:Thinking:

[hotrod23t]

i just stuck them to the exsisting magnets.. on the outside of fuse didnt even have to glue them can get pics tommorow:Yawn:

[Mikeinlutz]

Wire is still attached, the retract pulls it part way closed, wont go all the way. Closing it with a finger it will not close correctly and stay closed, where do put the magnets, pics?

[hotrod23t]

i put an additional magnet on both doors no more problem air was opening doors at high speed at least it worked for me..:Thinking:

[Grossman56]

Those pins can be a pain. Mine close most of the time, when they don't I just fly, I worry more about the gear coming back down than the door closing. I can operat mine several times on the ground and it'll work fine, but in the air the wind bends the pin slightly I guess...answer, bend the pin slightly forward, have to try that.

Grossman56

[borntoolate]

Right side retract door will not close. All ready had new left wing shipped because retract didnt work. First motion rc plane, the door hangs open after the retract closes. Adjustments, or just return the plane, any help appreciated

Did you check to make sure the wire closer is still attached to the door? If It still is attached, try bending it so that the wheel will pull it closed.

[Mikeinlutz]

Right side retract door will not close. All ready had new left wing shipped because retract didnt work. First motion rc plane, the door hangs open after the retract closes. Adjustments, or just return the plane, any help appreciated

[Grossman56]

no point in adding dead weight when you can add more power!
I had to add a bit of weight to the rear of the fuse in order to get the CG, this one may not need it.

Grossman56

[borntoolate]

Strange..........
Might be the perfect airframe to install a 650 kv into.
That and the 1400 mm Corsair prop work amazingly!

Grossman56

I have done this and you are right, it is amazing.

[Grossman56]

Strange..........
Might be the perfect airframe to install a 650 kv into.
That and the 1400 mm Corsair prop work amazingly!

Grossman56

[Mad Baron]

I put the 4000 battery all the way forward as well but it was still tail heavy. I didn't put any weight in my first Bearcat but this new one needed the extra nose weight.

[Grossman56]

that's interesting, I just put the 4000 all the way forward when I was running her stock and it worked fine.

Grossman56

[Mad Baron]

I got my Bearcat balanced I had to put 3 ounces behind the radial engine.

[Grossman56]

Such a great airplane!!
Can't wait for the 1600 mm version, (hint hint)

Grossman56

[Mad Baron]

I finally got my second Bearcat ready for its maiden flight! Just have to check the C.G. on it, and when I was putting it together I put a bead of Foamtac on the hinges so I wont worry about a control surface coming loose again. :Cool:I went with the same livery that was on my first Bearcat.

[Bob Symes]

Hi mate, I’m across the ditch in NZ and I use the Minwax Polycrylic waterbased polyurethane when I can find it, otherwise we have a brand over here called “Cabot’s” who do a waterbased satin finish clear-I’ve used that and I find it is really good for reflecting the UV as well as firming up the outer skin of the EPO. I normally apply 2-4 coats of it depending on the colour of the plane-my dark coloured birds get 4 coats as opposed to 2 on my plain white ones. My Dynam hellcat sat in the sun for a fair amount of time this summer and to my amazement it never seemed to be hot to the touch-something I put down to the clear reflecting the heat of the sun and the UV also. I recently had to repair a wing on one of my planes that got hit by a balsa plane doing a knife edge-the balsa plane came off worse! When it came time to try and remove the dent in my wing leading edge I was pouring water straight out the kettle onto the affected area (something that usually instantly causes the “gator skin” effect) and the clear does such a good job of deflecting heat that I could barely get the dent out!

Ho Builda,
my local Bunnings has Cabot’s Benchtop Clear and Cabothane clear in Satin, was either of these the product you used? The benchtop is heat resistant.
thanks
Bob

[Bob Symes]

Hi mate, I’m across the ditch in NZ and I use the Minwax Polycrylic waterbased polyurethane when I can find it, otherwise we have a brand over here called “Cabot’s” who do a waterbased satin finish clear-I’ve used that and I find it is really good for reflecting the UV as well as firming up the outer skin of the EPO. I normally apply 2-4 coats of it depending on the colour of the plane-my dark coloured birds get 4 coats as opposed to 2 on my plain white ones. My Dynam hellcat sat in the sun for a fair amount of time this summer and to my amazement it never seemed to be hot to the touch-something I put down to the clear reflecting the heat of the sun and the UV also. I recently had to repair a wing on one of my planes that got hit by a balsa plane doing a knife edge-the balsa plane came off worse! When it came time to try and remove the dent in my wing leading edge I was pouring water straight out the kettle onto the affected area (something that usually instantly causes the “gator skin” effect) and the clear does such a good job of deflecting heat that I could barely get the dent out!

Thanks Builda, we have Cabot’s available at Bunnings. I will check it out
Regards
Bob

[Builda]

Hi Grossman56,
is the spar varathane you use water based and for outdoor use? Trying to find a similar product in Aus to do my FL P38 and Tigercat.
thanks
Bob

Hi mate, I’m across the ditch in NZ and I use the Minwax Polycrylic waterbased polyurethane when I can find it, otherwise we have a brand over here called “Cabot’s” who do a waterbased satin finish clear-I’ve used that and I find it is really good for reflecting the UV as well as firming up the outer skin of the EPO. I normally apply 2-4 coats of it depending on the colour of the plane-my dark coloured birds get 4 coats as opposed to 2 on my plain white ones. My Dynam hellcat sat in the sun for a fair amount of time this summer and to my amazement it never seemed to be hot to the touch-something I put down to the clear reflecting the heat of the sun and the UV also. I recently had to repair a wing on one of my planes that got hit by a balsa plane doing a knife edge-the balsa plane came off worse! When it came time to try and remove the dent in my wing leading edge I was pouring water straight out the kettle onto the affected area (something that usually instantly causes the “gator skin” effect) and the clear does such a good job of deflecting heat that I could barely get the dent out!

[Bob Symes]

Yes, its water based. Now, the latest stuff I've tried is the Minwax Spar Urethane Indoor/Outdoor Gloss and its the 'glossiest' I've found so far!
Note: If you apply any of these clear coats with an air brush, the result will be duller than if you use a brush. So use a brush when going for shine and the air brush when going for flat.
I used Minwax matte finish on the Spitty.

Grossman56

Thanks Grossman56
Cheers
Bob