Official FlightLine RC 1600mm F7F-3 Tigercat Thread

Collapse
X
Collapse
First Prev Next Last
 
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • bbolz
    replied
    Thanks hardway, makes sense.

    Leave a comment:


  • bbolz
    replied
    So the leads labeled “throttle” from the nacelles plug into the board, then from the board to the Receiver throttle channel equals power to the receiver? That’s a y connection through the board I guess. I’ll take a look at that.

    Leave a comment:


  • Hardway
    replied
    There is no BEC lead. The BEC is in each ESC and each ESC hooks up to a Y. Then the Y plugs into the throttle channel. You are done then. There is NO external BEC, but each ESC has a BEC that works in unison for your power....

    Leave a comment:


  • bbolz
    replied
    I’m out of town for a couple of days and I’ll check this out Sunday but the only wires coming from the nacelles is the battery leads, the throttle lead and the gear lead. No bec lead.

    Leave a comment:


  • OV10
    replied
    Originally posted by bbolz
    Ok OV, now I'm confused. MRC says that the receiver does not need a separate BEC lead. Is this right?
    I believe you may be confused to the intent of their comment.
    I'm speculating from your comment that they said (in reference to the airframe power requirements) it doesn't require a separate BEC/UBEC
    Just Y the two ESC leads (the three wire yellow/red/brown) and then connect to your Rx.
    Most modelers make the BEC supplied Vcc connection to the bind port on DSMX Rx's like Spectrum/Lemon/Admiral.
    I know nothing about Futaba hookups

    Leave a comment:


  • bbolz
    replied
    So where does the Rx get it's power?

    Leave a comment:


  • bbolz
    replied
    Ok OV, now I'm confused. MRC says that the receiver does not need a separate BEC lead. Is this right?

    Leave a comment:


  • bbolz
    replied
    Thanks OV, so if both have BEC leads, you only need to use one of them? I'll open a ticket with MRC today.

    Leave a comment:


  • OV10
    replied
    Originally posted by bbolz
    What the heck, nobody mentioned, including Motion, that there was no BEC on the F7F ESC. No big deal, just haven't used one in like forever. Had to dig around for a switch and a receiver battery. Found a relatively new Life 6.6 and will use that. Egad.
    Hello BB..............I would recommend that you open a ticket with MRC concerning this.
    The Tiger does comes with 2 ESC's that have onboard 5V/5A BEC's

    If you don't have these then apparently someone at the factory put the wrong ones in the box.
    These particular ECS's were also a new proprietary design that allowed the two BEC's to talk to together.
    In earlier years this was a no-no. There was discussion about this in the early parts of this thread initiated by me.
    Alpha went on record with this claim. ;)

    Leave a comment:


  • bbolz
    replied
    What the heck, nobody mentioned, including Motion, that there was no BEC on the F7F ESC. No big deal, just haven't used one in like forever. Had to dig around for a switch and a receiver battery. Found a relatively new Life 6.6 and will use that. Egad.

    Leave a comment:


  • bbolz
    replied
    Oh crap you guys are going to get me divorced. Pushed the button and will join you all on the F7F site. I'll tell her it's on the way tomorrow! What a great looking plane even if it's not a jet!

    Leave a comment:


  • rcboone2000
    replied
    Originally posted by DPF4052

    I'm having the same problem with the hubs on my Flightline F7F-3. Wondering how the solution you found was holding up.
    i havent had any problems after the fix

    Leave a comment:


  • DPF4052
    replied
    Originally posted by prestonowtm

    Yes...and no issues at all.
    Thanks, sounds like the best solution I've seen so far!

    Leave a comment:


  • prestonowtm
    replied
    Originally posted by DPF4052

    Thinking of trying the same fix to solve my F7F-3 hub problems. Are you using the P-38 stock prop shaft and nut with the 2 blade "high performance" prop on the stock F7F-3 motor? Any issues to date using that prop with the stock motor?
    Yes...and no issues at all.

    Leave a comment:


  • Pheonix
    replied
    I have extra retracts after upgrading my two cats. I am willing to give to anyone willing to pay the shipping. As far as grub screws, I found that you really need a good Allan wrench. I purchased a set from either Tower of Motion. I have never stripped a screw since I used this quality set.

    Leave a comment:


  • DPF4052
    replied
    Originally posted by prestonowtm
    Here is the fix with the single prop. Still have to try and make a front pin for the landing gear since they are on backorder for God knows how long
    Thinking of trying the same fix to solve my F7F-3 hub problems. Are you using the P-38 stock prop shaft and nut with the 2 blade "high performance" prop on the stock F7F-3 motor? Any issues to date using that prop with the stock motor?

    Leave a comment:


  • DPF4052
    replied
    Originally posted by rcboone2000
    This is how I fixed mine also I called motion rc and sent a picture to Derik.I used a washer from the frame side on a trex 450 and a screw long enough to tighten into the motor shaft
    I'm having the same problem with the hubs on my Flightline F7F-3. Wondering how the solution you found was holding up.

    Leave a comment:


  • theoldALFER
    replied
    Click image for larger version  Name:	939F9E1E-EE2A-4F56-A930-0A315E0BDF4D.jpeg Views:	0 Size:	107.6 KB ID:	189650
    Maidened the Cat this morning. Some up trim and right trim was all that was needed. I forgot how well this aircraft flies . I’m glad I decided to replace my destroyed “Here Kitty Kitty” (RIP) - #21 is a keeper! :Cool:

    The Korean War scheme confused some of the guys at the field who asked if ishe was a “Black Widow.” :Whew:

    I’ll just have to keep an eye on the electrical connections so the same failure that killed the “Kitty” doesn’t occur with #21!
    Last edited by theoldALFER; Apr 11, 2019, 02:04 PM. Reason: Spelling corrections

    Leave a comment:


  • Grover54
    replied
    WARNING! – WARNING! – WARNING!

    This may be old news but if your research for products and supplies turns up a RC supplier called VampowrPro or Urban Products Inc. DO NOT I repeat DO NOT try to buy anything from them, not even a screw because that’s what you’ll get!!! I learned the hard way and though I didn’t lose any money (my CC company reversed charges) I wasted so much time chasing them for information. They don’t take calls; their mailbox is full and don’t return any emails and I just learned this has been going on for 8+ years. My bad for not conducting any due diligence on them. I’ve never seen any company as bad as these dirt bags and I’m surprised PayPal hasn’t shut them down so heed the warning!

    Leave a comment:


  • boomer108
    replied
    Originally posted by Bellke

    I know this question is going to sound stupid, but I'm never done this and I'm in the same situation you originally were. I stripped a grub screw on my nose gear trying to get it loose to upgrade the LG all around. How exactly did you go about drilling out the grub screw? Just shoving a drill bit in there 1/8th of an inch or so and reaming it out? I'd like to upgrade the gear but don't want to have to buy a new retract if it's not necessary. Any help you can provide would be appreciated.
    Mad Baron is right. If you have access to a drill press that makes easier to keep it centered. Also if you can get a tap of the same thread size you can run it through there and clean the threads up.

    Leave a comment:

Working...