Official FlightLine RC 1600mm F7F-3 Tigercat Thread
Collapse
X
-
I used a 9/64 drill bit but you have to be sure that the drill bit is perfectly centered or else it will cut into the threads. I started with a smaller bit to start with before I used the 9/64 bit. I ruined one retract because I didn't have the bit centered. -
I know this question is going to sound stupid, but I'm never done this and I'm in the same situation you originally were. I stripped a grub screw on my nose gear trying to get it loose to upgrade the LG all around. How exactly did you go about drilling out the grub screw? Just shoving a drill bit in there 1/8th of an inch or so and reaming it out? I'd like to upgrade the gear but don't want to have to buy a new retract if it's not necessary. Any help you can provide would be appreciated.Leave a comment:
-
I just had to cut the whole upper half of the nose of my Brand New HSD 75mm Viper so I could get to the upper nose gear to use my dremmal with the cutting a cutting edge to cut the top of the shaft off because of these Dam* grub screws. Why? To install the fancy landing gear upgrade with suspension. Wished I hadn't even messed with it. I wish they would use high-quality torqux heads instead of allen heads. When they're that small, and the screw is tight, they will strip every time. In my case they were just impossible to get to.
WoodyLeave a comment:
-
-
Got to maiden my TC this weekend. Flies great and the profile looks very scale on low rates. This is a real winner. I painted to cowels a flat whitened was glad I did. The head on profile is so slim, I could barely see the plane but easily saw those 2 white "eyes". I debated between yellow and white, after flying it, white it the better choice.Leave a comment:
-
Try some glue dissolver of some sort..I bet carb cleaner would work. There were some pretty serious dabs of glue under the grub screws when I got mine out.Leave a comment:
-
I plan on trying to replace the gear this week (again) I do have quality hex wrenches but the grub screws seem to be made out of soft metal. I will post later if I was successful.Leave a comment:
-
I went to upgrade my gear this weekend and stripped one of the grub screws holding the nose gear. One loosened right away, one wouldn't budge at all and I ended up stripping it. And while trying to get it lose, I broke the little plastic part of the clevis going through the steering tiller. So instead of a simple upgrade, and after a few choice words, I had to pull the nose gear, then the servo to put on a new clevis, reassemble everything and put back in the 1 grub screw that would come out. I was temped to just to the mains but that wouldn't look right. So like the Mad Baron, I'll either have to eat the $44 for the gear or drill the grub screw, turning a PITA into a bigger PITA. I still would like to upgrade the gear, any pointers on how to drill out the grub screw. I haven't had to do that before.
Leave a comment:
-
Doing some tinkering on the F7 and discovered 1/4 in backer rod fits nicely in the nacelle holes on top of the wing. I went to put some felt between the tires and the retract arms and had the same issue getting them off. Lucky I have a set of sweet Swiss made hex. They are well worth the money. I did find a little dob of glue on the axle where the grub screw hits. Might be worth some time to try some glue dissolver before you give up.
1 PhotoLeave a comment:
-
It sucks MB, the only option is to drill them out. I had to do that recently to change the stock wheels on the Bearcat, must have some strong people at the factory!I had to put the stock gear back on my Tcat today. I was able to install the nose gear, but when I went to the mains I couldn't get the grub screws to loosen up even with heat from my soldering gun the screws would not move. :Angry: GRRRRR!!!! $44 bucks down the drain!!
I went through the same thing with the nose wheel on my Tigercat, it was a PITA. About the only thing I can think of short of drilling, is to pick up a second set of retracts, I know the cost and the pain of changing them out vs the results. Personally, the mains didn't do it for me so I went back to the stock gear, but I'm going to try what George recommended and us the ear from the Spitfire.
Grossman56Leave a comment:
-
-
I contacted Callie and she sent me a pdf with locactions. :Cool:I'm wanting to get the nomenclature decals from Callie Graphics for my TC but I can't find anything that shows me where they all would go. I was able to locate a webpage for my Flightline Corsair, but nothing on the TC. Does anyone have a link they could share? Looking to give it that little extra touch. ThanksLeave a comment:
-
I'm wanting to get the nomenclature decals from Callie Graphics for my TC but I can't find anything that shows me where they all would go. I was able to locate a webpage for my Flightline Corsair, but nothing on the TC. Does anyone have a link they could share? Looking to give it that little extra touch. ThanksLeave a comment:
-
I glad that worked!!! ;) Yes, I have the Corsair. (Birdcage) version! :Cool: Nice model!!Leave a comment:
-
Hardway,
Well that did the trick.
Both props now “pull” with the prop wash over the wings. Rotation is away from the fuselage. My reverse prop is now on the port (left).
Such a simple “fix” ... thanks :Cool::Cool::Cool:
theoldALFER
PS: Are you up on the FlightLine 1600mm Corsair site? Have you gotten it? I’m a few weeks fry placing my order but have begun some mod on parts I picked up from the spare parts section on MRC.
Leave a comment:
-
Went to maden her today. Everything checked out, put her on the flightline, went to taxi out and… she backed up very nicely. Can you believe, both motors were running backwards! Right from the factory!!! Yep that was my fault ...Didn’t check which direction the prop blast was going. Dumb. :(:Silly::Angry:
oh well back to the hanger for some minor adjustments :wacky:Loser:Leave a comment:
-
Thanks OV10....:Cool: It's been a busy weekend now that warmer weather is here! :Whew:Leave a comment:
-
I had to put the stock gear back on my Tcat today. I was able to install the nose gear, but when I went to the mains I couldn't get the grub screws to loosen up even with heat from my soldering gun the screws would not move. :Angry: GRRRRR!!!! $44 bucks down the drain!!Leave a comment:
-
I put a set of the upgraded gear on and like it. The only issue has been prop strikes when you get too heavy on the front gear. I moves a lot and I have the B52 bomber props on it that are a half inch longer than the stock ones. I stuck a rod in the front tine so it doesn't move much now but still looks good. Hoping that will fix the issue. If it doesn't I will go to the single blade props. The ones I am using are expensive at about 13 a piece and you have to buy the set.Leave a comment:


Leave a comment: