Discussion Thread: Heng Long 1/16 Scale "Panther G" German WW2 Tank

[MrChef]

I know this is an older thread but wondering what you used to do the Zimmerit on your Panther. Looks nice.

Just luck I checked back. That's a picture of a real Panther tank at the Australian Armor Museum.

[Heirphoto]

Looking really good Srudiocat12! I like the pigment work, exhaust rust and soot.


Just FYI the screens on the rear deck go on top of the grills to prevent any grenades or other such from getting tossed in and mucking up the works.

I know this is an older thread but wondering what you used to do the Zimmerit on your Panther. Looks nice.

[MaverickTank]

Is the block the idler screws into flexing where it attaches to the chassi, or where the idler screws in? Have you thought about using some 1.5mm aluminium plate bonded to the chassis and fixing the adjuster with a longer nut and bolt? This would spread the tension over a larger area over the chassis.
Excuse the highly technical drawing. Hopefully it will explain things better than my words.

Thanks for the drawing, it says a million words.

I have seen how others have done that, and how the aftermarket parts run a rod across the width of the tank. I'm going to try trimming the idler wheel first before I get into that kind of surgery. Good suggestion though.

[Meter Rat]

I think it is the plastic block that the idler axle screws into. When there is a little force on it the block flexes a tiny bit.

The idler wheel is fine. In fact, I tried two different wheels with bearings and both were catching the track horns.

Is the block the idler screws into flexing where it attaches to the chassi, or where the idler screws in? Have you thought about using some 1.5mm aluminium plate bonded to the chassis and fixing the adjuster with a longer nut and bolt? This would spread the tension over a larger area over the chassis.
Excuse the highly technical drawing. Hopefully it will explain things better than my words.

[MaverickTank]

I've also had a problem with my HL Panther G throwing tracks (metal version) .
I tried adding washers or shims and just when you think you've sorted it..click click & it's off again. What I ended up doing was I laid out both tracks on the kitchen floor, removed the idler wheels and just ran them along the tracks in my fingers. I found the some of the lugs (?) on each track were a tight fit in places no matter which idler I used, the idler just didnt want to fit in between them.
Sooooo after a bit of head scratching I decided upon a plan.....plan A; bend the offending lugs out a bit...hmmmm, no, I chickened out when I realised the the lugs would probably just snap off rather than bend.........ok, lets go for plan B, there was'nt a plan B at the time, more head scratching was required..🤔.

After a coffee plan B finally came into view ( well, it was desparation really 🤨 ) out came my trusty dremmel type thingy & with a small grinding wheel attached I carefully, very carefully ground a small angle around the circumference of the sides of each idler wheel, I could of used a full sized angle grinder to thin the whole wheel down a little but really didnt want to go down that route.
After about 30 minutes, stopping several times to check the fit of the wheels on the tracks and a couple of more stops to apply plasters to my fingers where I'd slipped with the dremmel 😭 the idlers seemed a much better fit.The ground off area was so small as not to be too noticeable, maybe no more than 2-3 mm, once repainted nobody will ever know.

After re-assembling everything it was off outside for a test run, a good 30 minute run through some rough bits of the garden & I'm a happy tanker again, no tracks were thrown, no clicking sounds heard, just good old fashioned rc tank fun like it should be.😁

I should of taken some pictures really but hindsight is a wonderful thing.

Thanks for the info!

I chickened out with sanding the idler wheels, and just took the sharp edge off. I will try your method of rolling them through the tracks and seeing where they catch. A bit more grinding with the Dremmel might do the trick, and if I mess it up, idlers aren't that expensive.

The first thing I tried was plastic tracks, but they grabbed the idlers too.

[SoCalBobS]

Ratrace, I've done the same thing, also with a successful result. I've seen track teeth grab on more than one tank. Thumbs up. On a couple of large tanks - Challenger, Leopard - some of us have resorted to plastic tracks on metal wheels. They seem not to bind as easily.

[tank_me]

Glad to hear a little bit of troubleshooting fixed your issues.

[MrChef]

After re-assembling everything it was off outside for a test run, a good 30 minute run through some rough bits of the garden & I'm a happy tanker again, no tracks were thrown, no clicking sounds heard, just good old fashioned rc tank fun like it should be.😁

I should of taken some pictures really but hindsight is a wonderful thing.

Excellent to hear! Thank you for sharing your experience and solution.

And yes, woulda been cool to see pics. Chalk that up for next time. It took alot of concentration for me to remember to document pictures with everything I do to my tanks. I'm not OCD.

Glad you're back to tanking fun.

[Ratrace]

I've also had a problem with my HL Panther G throwing tracks (metal version) .
I tried adding washers or shims and just when you think you've sorted it..click click & it's off again. What I ended up doing was I laid out both tracks on the kitchen floor, removed the idler wheels and just ran them along the tracks in my fingers. I found the some of the lugs (?) on each track were a tight fit in places no matter which idler I used, the idler just didnt want to fit in between them.
Sooooo after a bit of head scratching I decided upon a plan.....plan A; bend the offending lugs out a bit...hmmmm, no, I chickened out when I realised the the lugs would probably just snap off rather than bend.........ok, lets go for plan B, there was'nt a plan B at the time, more head scratching was required..🤔.

After a coffee plan B finally came into view ( well, it was desparation really 🤨 ) out came my trusty dremmel type thingy & with a small grinding wheel attached I carefully, very carefully ground a small angle around the circumference of the sides of each idler wheel, I could of used a full sized angle grinder to thin the whole wheel down a little but really didnt want to go down that route.
After about 30 minutes, stopping several times to check the fit of the wheels on the tracks and a couple of more stops to apply plasters to my fingers where I'd slipped with the dremmel 😭 the idlers seemed a much better fit.The ground off area was so small as not to be too noticeable, maybe no more than 2-3 mm, once repainted nobody will ever know.

After re-assembling everything it was off outside for a test run, a good 30 minute run through some rough bits of the garden & I'm a happy tanker again, no tracks were thrown, no clicking sounds heard, just good old fashioned rc tank fun like it should be.😁

I should of taken some pictures really but hindsight is a wonderful thing.

[MaverickTank]

Thanks for the feedback. Hopefully I won't have to do major surgery on the Panther. Washers take care of the straight-line problems good enough, but I like things to work properly.

[MrChef]

I think it is the plastic block that the idler axle screws into. When there is a little force on it the block flexes a tiny bit.

The idler wheel is fine. In fact, I tried two different wheels with bearings and both were catching the track horns.

Lets see if anyone else chimes in with any helpful information for you.

Mine doesn't flex. I just took it apart and reassembled it 2 months ago so I know exactly what parts you are referring to. Mine has the tiniest bit of deflection when the idler wheel is attached under load with metal tracks but nothing that makes any sound or track guidehorns skipping or detracking. If you have driven your tank a good amount maybe there is wear on that part exacerbated from driveshaft flex distorting alignment.

I've heard of track adjusters from Hennetec-

https://etoarmor.com/?product_cat=henntec-idler-systems

But if you're going to go that route I'd also consider driveshaft bearings.

Here is a link to someone discussing almost the same issue as you are describing over on RCU-

https://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/rc-tanks-369/11644339-how-installing-henntec-tensioner-heng-long-jagdpanther.html

[MaverickTank]

It's a real bummer that the one side catches on the idler. I love the model- especially crawling with the metal tracks. The problem became progressively worse over the past few weeks. I first tried tightening the track tension, then checked the wheels to see of they were pushing on the track. I swapped idlers and tracks, but the problem persists. If I shim the idler with two washers it lessens the problem, but not entirely. Something has deformed just enough that that the inside track horns catch the edge of the idler wheel.

The metal tracks are a huge stress on the plastic hull, and I wonder if the plastic tension adjuster has lost its rigidity.

[MaverickTank]

Maverick can you take a few pictures and show us exactly what you think is going on? What part of the idler adjustment is worn? The plastic teeth that mesh with the metal adjustment?

I installed driveshaft bearings when I upgraded my Panther a few months ago. I didn't yet have a detracking issue but since installing the bearings I notice less flex and don't expect any issues. My idler wheels are on the original stock settings.

I think it is the plastic block that the idler axle screws into. When there is a little force on it the block flexes a tiny bit.

The idler wheel is fine. In fact, I tried two different wheels with bearings and both were catching the track horns.

[MrChef]

Maverick can you take a few pictures and show us exactly what you think is going on? What part of the idler adjustment is worn? The plastic teeth that mesh with the metal adjustment?

I installed driveshaft bearings when I upgraded my Panther a few months ago. I didn't yet have a detracking issue but since installing the bearings I notice less flex and don't expect any issues. My idler wheels are on the original stock settings.

[MrChef]

Maverick can you take a few pictures and show us exactly what you think is going on? What part of the idler adjustment is worn? The plastic teeth that mesh with the metal adjustment?

I installed driveshaft bearings when I upgraded my Panther a few months ago. I didn't yet have a detracking issue but since installing the bearings I notice less flex and don't expect any issues. My idler wheels are on the original stock settings.

[MaverickTank]

I have had my professional edition Panther G for about a year. recently, it started having trouble with the inner track teeth climbing up the idler wheel on one side. It makes a constant click-click as the teeth intermittently ride up the edge of the wheel. This is happening in straight-line, smooth surface running. I checked the road wheels- same alignment and slop on both sides. It looks like the plastic track tension adjuster has weakened a bit, allowing the idler to flex just enough to rub on the inner teeth of the track, and maybe the hull flexes a bit. A few washers under the idler bearing helped, but it still does the jumping in turns.

I put plastic tracks on it to help reduce the tension, but really want the cool looking metal tracks back on it. Any suggestions? I tried finding replacement tensioners with no luck. Maybe modify tiger metal tension blocks?

[Studiocat13]

I took your inspiration for the hooks and came up with my own. I had some sprues with tank parts already primed from other projects and came up with these. The square base fits and secures perfectly into the hole on the engine deck. I snipped and filed the opposite side of the "U" to make it a hook. Sanded and painted with Khaki and voila similar to your good idea. Safe and secure-

Looks great Chef and so much better than the way it was designed !

[MrChef]

[MrChef]

I decided to make use of the existing holes on the tank and add just a couple hooks I made from some 10 Gauge copper wire I had laying around. Going to attempt to paint and weather the provided plastic tow cables for now but may end up ordering some like yours down the road. At least with the hooks I made, the cable end won't just be floating there on the back of the tank.

Thanks again !

Brad

I took your inspiration for the hooks and came up with my own. I had some sprues with tank parts already primed from other projects and came up with these. The square base fits and secures perfectly into the hole on the engine deck. I snipped and filed the opposite side of the "U" to make it a hook. Sanded and painted with Khaki and voila similar to your good idea. Safe and secure-

[Studiocat13]

Very nicely done Studiocat! I do like how your hooks work with the tow cables. You've shared a good idea for securing mine.

Bravo.

Just be careful, once you get one of these tanks they kind of become addicting just look at DavidN, SocalBob and Rubicon99 collections. I started with one, now I have 6 and am already planning my next 2 RTR and 2 build projects.

Keep it up,

Chef

Thanks Chef, I greatly appreciate it and I'm quite happy with how it turned out ! With that said, after building a couple 1/35 scale tanks, these are a ton more work but they are a lot of fun and I'm actually already looking at the Heng Long M26 Pershing as my next RC purchase. Figured it would pair up nicely with the Panther !

Thanks again and I look forward to seeing more of your build in the future !