Sturmgeschutz III - don't do this at home, kids!

[karltrek]

I finished another 5.3 to 6.0 upgrade on a StuG III. This time for NoCalBob (aka borntolate).

I cleaned us the wiring with some Spiral Cable Wrap.








Here is the tanks in action after the upgrade. All is well.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RPAxjfD9HVU

Here is is testing the IR function with my Henlong T-34 using LegoDEI’s LED IR Reciever upgrade.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sjORSScats8

[karltrek]

SoCalBob,
Sorry to hear that your 6.0 control unit fried. Did you remove everything from the StuG except the Airsoft unit? I take out all the 5.3 electronics.

"I rewired and plugged in the "Trigger" circuit and did the same for the "BB Launch System" (airsoft gun motor).
Time to test. The motor worked but when the time for the trigger to activate, fffssst! "

You should not have needed to rewire the trigger from the BB Firing unit. It's the same as the ones used in the 6.0 tanks except one side has a rail glued on for the lifting unit. It uses the same plugs. But make use to unplug it from that small secondary circuit board and plug it in directly to the main 6.0 board. I remove that secondary board all together.

[SoCalBobS]

So, good news and bad news. Bad; I got well into the conversion, hooked up the airsoft I thought, activated it and fffffft! burned out a board. Toucan sells them for $33, so I'm in hiatus. Up to that, it was going good.

The following are the steps up to.., you know. This is by no means a how to, just my real time observations. Please consider them "helpful hints".

Stug III 5.3 to 6.0S upgrade process:

You will need an upgrade kit. Also a 6.0 transmitter, unless you already have one. You can bind more than one tank to a transmitter. Just don't have two bound tanks turned on at a time! More on this later. Screwdrivers of course, a soldering iron or gun and solder and miscellaneous tools.

Open the hull.
Photograph the 5.3 wiring details, just in case!

Using the wiring schematic in the 6.0 manual if you have one, learn where the 6.0 modules plug into the 6.0 board (aka MFCB).
I opted to remove the Tamiya socket & solder XT-30 replacement connectors onto power leads.
Remove 5.3 on/off switch, install 6.0 on/off switch. Look underneath so on and off are correctly configured.
Enlarge lower hull hole a little bit for power leads.
Install the 6.0 power leads.
Unscrew small black cover & remove 5.3 momentary button from lower hull; not needed in 6.0.
Remove 5.3 smoke generator by unscrewing three screws on the outside bottom of the hull.
Install the 6.0 smoke generator. Check karltrek's picture of his installation for orientation. It can be held in place by one of the removed screws in the center of the three holes. The red & black leads to the smoke generator motor and blue leads to the heater may need to be lengthened.

Connecting the Motors:
Depending on your soldering equipment and comfort level, this can be done either in place or with the motors and gearboxes removed.
Unsolder the 5.3 motor leads from the motors. Remember that the M1 circuit is for the left motor and the M2 is for the right.
Note that the kit's motor leads have a plug and socket midway for ease of adjustment and replacement. You may want to shorten the leads to achieve a cleaner install. Solder the 6.0 motor leads to the motors.
At some point you will need to confirm the treads go forward and back correctly. This has to be done when the tank is bound to a transmitter. Fortunately, if a motor is reversed, you can unplug and reverse the leads.

I bound the tank to a transmitter at this point. In this way I could confirm each step as I re-routed the wiring. Simple process; turn on the transmitter. Hold down the ignition button and while doing so turn on the tank. Voila!

It turns out the left motor leads were reversed. I'd connected red to red all along the circuit. However, one motor ran backward. Simple fix, plug red to black and it ran correctly.

Next was connecting the headlight circuit and the machine gun light circuit. The 5.3 wiring buss on the underside of the upper hull will be eliminated. Rewire the parts, with leads included in the kit, and plug them plug directly into the MFCB.

Next was the "cannon lifting" (read: elevation motor) circuit. Same process; wire leads, plug them into the board. I turned them on to test, all worked fine.


Now here's where things went wrong, advice will be appreciated.

I rewired and plugged in the "Trigger" circuit and did the same for the "BB Launch System" (airsoft gun motor).
Time to test. The motor worked but when the time for the trigger to activate, fffssst!

Hmmm. wiggle wiggle poke poke turn off and on, restart. Nope, dead. So close!

[SoCalBobS]

By the way, this is a 6.0 connection schematic I grabbed from another thread. A good reference if you can't find your manual.

[SoCalBobS]

This is a photo of the 6.0 components, hooked up as much as possible for educational purposes. I used the wiring diagram included in the 6.0 manual that comes with their respective tanks. So all I have to do is pull the 5.3 wires and plug in the 6.0? No, not really, but it won't be too hard to connect the appropriate modules. I will be relying heavily on Karltrek's photos in this thread.

[SoCalBobS]

I got my 5.3 to 6.0 upgrade kit yesterday; $55 from Toucan Hobby. I'm really looking forward to the upgrade, and the primary reason is for better steering and throttle. The absence of a turret makes it important to fine tune the aim, almost impossible with the 5.3 electronics. It also allows IR functionality, absent in 5.3. (An aside: some earlier HL products could be bought with EITHER IR or Airsoft, but not both.)

First step is to open up the patient. Second is to photograph the guts, in case stuff needs to be put back! I've posted large size versions, in case anyone wants a closer view.

[karltrek]

Still thinking about the IR emitter. In stock HL tanks, they are situated behind a small diameter aperture. In Karl's case and in others who place the bulbs in the barrel, how is the accuracy affected? Is there more spread, registering hits on objects not in the aimed direction? If the bulb happens to be angled a tiny bit off the boresight, does one have to compensate in their aiming? I presume so, but I'd like to hear from those who have made this modification.

The group I tank with has many different HL models. I really can’t tell if the IR emitter installed in my StuG has any advantage over the other tanks during battles. I guess you could drill a smaller hole on the surface and then drill the size that fits the LED just far enough on the inside to mount the LED.

[SoCalBobS]

Still thinking about the IR emitter. In stock HL tanks, they are situated behind a small diameter aperture. In Karl's case and in others who place the bulbs in the barrel, how is the accuracy affected? Is there more spread, registering hits on objects not in the aimed direction? If the bulb happens to be angled a tiny bit off the boresight, does one have to compensate in their aiming? I presume so, but I'd like to hear from those who have made this modification.

[SoCalBobS]

Hi Bob,
Yes. I disassembled it down to just that part so that I could easily drill the hole. I am very happy with the IR performance. Works perfectly.

One thing I am not happy with is the tracks come off to easily. Almost any turn will de-track it. I have to slow down to a crawl to make a turn. I believe it has to do with the idler wheel. It’s too floppy and can’t be tightened any better. It is the metal Heng Long version that has no bushing. I ordered a Mato metal idler that comes with a bearing. I am hoping that will have better performance.

Strange, I have the same setup (maybe newer?) with metal sprocket and idler wheels and tracks and there hasn't been any of that. As a matter of fact, I've run it so aggressively that some of the outside road wheels fell off! I've silicone cemented them to stop this.

Anytime I take the idlers off my tanks I have to be careful not to lose the washer at the mount. They like to run off onto the floor! I think the weakest point on HL tanks is the idler mount. With all the stress the tracks place on them, especially the heavier metal ones, it's a wonder the mounts don't break more. I had just that happen on a KV-1. Once it breaks, it's impossible to fix.

[karltrek]

Hey Karl, I have some questions. How did you mount the IR bulb? I see you drilled a hole. Did you disassemble all the way down to the mantle so you could get the hole aligned? Did you remove the airsoft unit to access the area? Have you tried it, how accurate do you feel it is? How did you brace the bulb behind the mantle?

I talked to Toucan, they can sell me the required parts without the transmitter for $55, so now I have to figure out the process. Thanks for any help you can share.

Hi Bob,
Yes. I disassembled it down to just that part so that I could easily drill the hole. I am very happy with the IR performance. Works perfectly.

One thing I am not happy with is the tracks come off to easily. Almost any turn will de-track it. I have to slow down to a crawl to make a turn. I believe it has to do with the idler wheel. It’s too floppy and can’t be tightened any better. It is the metal Heng Long version that has no bushing. I ordered a Mato metal idler that comes with a bearing. I am hoping that will have better performance.

[SoCalBobS]

If you are interested in what it looks like inside the Stug III after my v6.0 upgrade here are some images with notes on the changes.







And the final results. First drive.😃

https://youtu.be/MwdoWEs69kY

Hey Karl, I have some questions. How did you mount the IR bulb? I see you drilled a hole. Did you disassemble all the way down to the mantle so you could get the hole aligned? Did you remove the airsoft unit to access the area? Have you tried it, how accurate do you feel it is? How did you brace the bulb behind the mantle?

I talked to Toucan, they can sell me the required parts without the transmitter for $55, so now I have to figure out the process. Thanks for any help you can share.

[Grandpa53]

I do love the STUGS!!!

[HDMM]

Great job on the tank commander! Are those plastic tracks? If so, I've done just one more step than with metal ones. Spray them first with any silver you like, then lightly overspray with the brown we've been talking about. The brown wears off first, yielding 'metal" highlights.

Or, you could order three or four types of pigments, mix your own, then paint each link. Shouldn't take more than a few days! (Facetious I know, but I worked in a hobby shop for a while and overheard just this type of conversation.)

I do have some AK metal pigment paste that I use on edges, handles, etc., which could touch up tracks. Rub some on your fingers, rub your finger on the surfaces you want. Just beware, a little goes a long way!

Yes, they are plastic tracks on this one. I have metal ones that I will put on eventually. I have been using a combination of paint and Vallejo weathering for my metal tracks.

[Vaseline]

I typically use a combination of a a regular ol' #2 pencil and a prisma-color silver pencil as you describe using that metal paste. the burnished graphite over black looks really good as a worn gun-metal look as well. I ordered a 1lb tub of graphite powder for weathering, that was a mistake, it just wont polish to that metallic sheen like a pencil does.

[SoCalBobS]

Another STUG III owner here.....I've converted mine to a Clark TK40 with a Flash unit. Have not added IR yet. I've done detailing / painting but have not done any weathering on it yet.

Great job on the tank commander! Are those plastic tracks? If so, I've done just one more step than with metal ones. Spray them first with any silver you like, then lightly overspray with the brown we've been talking about. The brown wears off first, yielding 'metal" highlights.

Or, you could order three or four types of pigments, mix your own, then paint each link. Shouldn't take more than a few days! (Facetious I know, but I worked in a hobby shop for a while and overheard just this type of conversation.)

I do have some AK metal pigment paste that I use on edges, handles, etc., which could touch up tracks. Rub some on your fingers, rub your finger on the surfaces you want. Just beware, a little goes a long way!

[SoCalBobS]

the thing about Vallejo is its great paint on 1 very big condition, its formulated in such a way that if you use anything but their proprietary reducer/thinner the paint breaks and turns into cottage cheese in your airbrush gumming up the whole works.

I've found that too, using Testor's acrylic thinner with AK paints. it took me an hour to get all the gundge out of the airbrush.

[HDMM]

Another STUG III owner here.....I've converted mine to a Clark TK40 with a Flash unit. Have not added IR yet. I've done detailing / painting but have not done any weathering on it yet.

[UltraVargen]

the thing about Vallejo is its great paint on 1 very big condition, its formulated in such a way that if you use anything but their proprietary reducer/thinner the paint breaks and turns into cottage cheese in your airbrush gumming up the whole works.

That's exactly what happened. I think I never actually tried their own thinner so that might explain it. Did try alcohol, water, Tamiya and Mr. Color thinner. Maybe some other stuff, it was a long time ago.

I still have a box full of VMA bottles (if they're not dried out after 10+ years). Maybe I'll try them again sometime.

[Vaseline]

As for airbrushing: My experience is that the brand of paint really matters. When I first got my airbrush years and years ago I went with Vallejo Model Air because I was already using their regular brushpaints. Big mistake, couldn't spray without the airbrush clogging up every 5 minutes. Tried different types of thinners but never got it right. And a hell to clean the stuff from the airbrush. After that I switched to Mr Hobby Aqueous, thinning it with Mr Hobby thinner. It's a dream spraying with this.

the thing about Vallejo is its great paint on 1 very big condition, its formulated in such a way that if you use anything but their proprietary reducer/thinner the paint breaks and turns into cottage cheese in your airbrush gumming up the whole works.

[karltrek]

I picked up a can of Rust-Oleum Camouflage "Earth Brown" and painted the tracks on my StuG III. I like how they came out. Should weather nicely over time in the dirt.