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DKLMRC tracks for the Challenger 2

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  • #21
    Hello gents, I'm new to this forum, not to rc tanks. I am curious though. I have no experience with any of the modern armor. I am looking at buying an Abrams and considering both the tamiya, and the HL with metal lower hull. I was unaware that tamiya tracks actually use real rubber pads as well. Does anyone know for sure if DKLM tracks will fit the Tamiya Abrams, in case I decide to go that route? I appreciate any thoughts you guys might have.Thanks.

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    • #22
      Originally posted by Yellowshaker View Post
      Hello gents, I'm new to this forum, not to rc tanks. I am curious though. I have no experience with any of the modern armor. I am looking at buying an Abrams and considering both the tamiya, and the HL with metal lower hull. I was unaware that tamiya tracks actually use real rubber pads as well. Does anyone know for sure if DKLM tracks will fit the Tamiya Abrams, in case I decide to go that route? I appreciate any thoughts you guys might have.Thanks.
      Yes they fit but the Tamiya tracks are far superior. Lighter yet just as strong and with taller track guide teeth that are essential for keeping tracks on the sprockets. If you are going with the excellent Tamiya Abrams stick with the Tamiya tracks. Also you want to order the steel upgrade gears for the Tamiya transmission that DKLM sells. They are one of those better to do it upfront then after the fact upgrades.

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      • #23
        Knowing tamiya has rubber pads for good traction, it makes sense to use them. Thanks! Yes, plan on the gear update up front.

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        • #24
          Originally posted by Yellowshaker View Post
          Knowing tamiya has rubber pads for good traction, it makes sense to use them. Thanks! Yes, plan on the gear update up front.
          You will enjoy the Tamiya Abrams it is as tough as the all metal lower hull HL Abrams but so much smoother in operation.

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          • #25
            Originally posted by Rubicon99 View Post

            You will enjoy the Tamiya Abrams it is as tough as the all metal lower hull HL Abrams but so much smoother in operation.
            I just realized who you are from RCU. I was on there all the time for years posting builds. I read through some of the stuff you posted there about your tanks as well. I think I will go with tamiya, I am just concerned about the supposed electronics issues they had with the Abrams. I would probably upgrade the idler with DKLM's setup also.

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            • #26
              Originally posted by Yellowshaker View Post
              I just realized who you are from RCU. I was on there all the time for years posting builds. I read through some of the stuff you posted there about your tanks as well. I think I will go with tamiya, I am just concerned about the supposed electronics issues they had with the Abrams. I would probably upgrade the idler with DKLM's setup also.
              They issues with electronics are long ago. There have been no new issues in years.

              I would not recommend the DKlM idler adjuster until you have some time on your Abrams and find a true need for it. Mine is beat to hell far more then the guys overseas beat theirs and I have never seen a need to change theTamiya stock system. Not saying the DLKM idler isn’t cool, because it is, just not needed.

              When you have time take a look at my IG @fsttanks. Their are a number of short videos of my Tamiya Abrams being beat up. The older/early post are the best ones.

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              • #27
                I was thinking of the idler for ease of use. It looks to be very well made. You mentioned something about possibly throwing tracks on this thing with aftermarket units. It amazes me because it has guides in the sprocket for the horns. But, as I said, I have no experience with these models...yet. I am going to check out your IG now. I just made an introductory post but had to use links from my Google drive because I could not get it to work any other way.

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                • #28
                  Originally posted by Yellowshaker View Post
                  I was thinking of the idler for ease of use. It looks to be very well made. You mentioned something about possibly throwing tracks on this thing with aftermarket units. It amazes me because it has guides in the sprocket for the horns. But, as I said, I have no experience with these models...yet. I am going to check out your IG now. I just made an introductory post but had to use links from my Google drive because I could not get it to work any other way.
                  It is pretty hard to throw a track on a Tamiya Abrams when running Tamiya track, but it does happen and the DKLM active idler would change this very little. The sprockets guide rings have limitations especially with rubber padded tracks that like to grip and soft dirt/sand that can “pack” the rings causing the guide teeth to ride up and over them. I recommend running only the outside ring on the Abrams sprockets to combat the “packing” issues. One ring lets the dirt/sand “drain” faster from around the sprockets. This is true even for HL modern tanks with sprocket/track retainer rings.

                  Like I said above run the Tamiyas Abrams stock for a while and make the decision after you have some time on the tank. Once you install the DKLM idler you can’t go back as it requires permanent modifications to the hull.

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                  • #29
                    Ohhhh I again did not know that you had to modify the hull. Sigh..ok, I'll listen to you. Just a gear upgrade.

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                    • #30
                      AAF Meseum RX Shop is no longer working or carrying Tamiya tracks. Tamiya US store wants $400+ for this tracks. Any alternative source for Tamiya parts?

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                      • #31
                        Originally posted by keilau View Post
                        AAF Meseum RX Shop is no longer working or carrying Tamiya tracks. Tamiya US store wants $400+ for this tracks. Any alternative source for Tamiya parts?
                        DLKM metal tracks are the same as the Haya metal tracks. Both are high quality in their construction and both work, but I would not use them for anything more then simple running because of the issues pointed out in a review thread I did on them and the stress to the Tamiya idlers and return rollers that can and do happen when driven in soft soils or sandy conditions. The metal tracks are solely hard packed surfaces only in my recommendation when used on the Tamiya Centurion.

                        Another option looked at, but yet to be tried is to see if TD Centurion plastic tracks will work on the Tamiya Centurion. TD "plastic" seems to be on par strength wise with Tamiya nylon tracks.

                        On a side note the TD metal Centurion tracks running on TD sprockets have similar issues with soft soils and sandy conditions when it come to small rock jams in the track "sprocket holes".

                        Typical rock jam that causes the issues. This does not happen with the Tamiya nylon tracks as they allow for small rocks like shown to be easily pushed out by the sprocket teeth. Metal tracks do not have the "flexibility" of nylon and the rocks simply get jammed in. Can be a bit of work to manually force the rocks back out.
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                        • #32
                          Originally posted by Rubicon99 View Post
                          DLKM metal tracks are the same as the Haya metal tracks. Both are high quality in their construction and both work, but I would not use them for anything more then simple running because of the issues pointed out in a review thread I did on them and the stress to the Tamiya idlers and return rollers that can and do happen when driven in soft soils or sandy conditions. The metal tracks are solely hard packed surfaces only in my recommendation when used on the Tamiya Centurion.

                          Another option looked at, but yet to be tried is to see if TD Centurion plastic tracks will work on the Tamiya Centurion. TD "plastic" seems to be on par strength wise with Tamiya nylon tracks.

                          On a side note the TD metal Centurion tracks running on TD sprockets have similar issues with soft soils and sandy conditions when it come to small rock jams in the track "sprocket holes".

                          Typical rock jam that causes the issues. This does not happen with the Tamiya nylon tracks as they allow for small rocks like shown to be easily pushed out by the sprocket teeth. Metal tracks do not have the "flexibility" of nylon and the rocks simply get jammed in. Can be a bit of work to manually force the rocks back out.
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                          I am in serious consideration of purchasing a Heng Long Challerger2. I have eliminated the DKLMRC and Mato rubber pad metal track from consideration due to the issue Rubicon99 pointed out. (The metal tracks are solely hard packed surfaces only) I have Tamiya nylone track on the HL German Leopard 2A6 and Kooben on the HL IDF Merkava Mk4. They are the best combination for HL RC tanks.

                          AAF Meseum RX Shop is no longer working or carrying no Tamiya tracks. Tamiya US store wants $400+ for this tracks. Any alternative source for Tamiya parts offering AAF price?

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                          • #33
                            Originally posted by keilau View Post
                            I am in serious consideration of purchasing a Heng Long Challerger2. I have eliminated the DKLMRC and Mato rubber pad metal track from consideration due to the issue Rubicon99 pointed out. (The metal tracks are solely hard packed surfaces only) I have Tamiya nylone track on the HL German Leopard 2A6 and Kooben on the HL IDF Merkava Mk4. They are the best combination for HL RC tanks.

                            AAF Meseum RX Shop is no longer working or carrying no Tamiya tracks. Tamiya US store wants $400+ for this tracks. Any alternative source for Tamiya parts offering AAF price?
                            There is no response to the Tamiya track question. It leads to the conclusion that it cannot be bought for less than $400. I cannot find any other nylon track option for the Challenger2.

                            I have to bring back the DKLMRC and Mato rubber pad metal track for consideration despite the problem. Either one of them can be had for about $120 shipped. I would appreciate any hands on comment of these tracks.

                            I eliminated the Heng Long and Torro metal track from consideration because of their single pin design. They are both well under $100 each pair.

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                            • #34
                              Originally posted by keilau View Post
                              There is no response to the Tamiya track question. It leads to the conclusion that it cannot be bought for less than $400. I cannot find any other nylon track option for the Challenger2.

                              I have to bring back the DKLMRC and Mato rubber pad metal track for consideration despite the problem. Either one of them can be had for about $120 shipped. I would appreciate any hands on comment of these tracks.

                              I eliminated the Heng Long and Torro metal track from consideration because of their single pin design. They are both well under $100 each pair.
                              I have several sets of both the DKLM and Mato tracks. The DKLM have thicker pins and less issues with the track end links coming off. They do not run well on the Challenger 2 unless you use Abrams sprockets vs the shims needed to widen the Challenger sprockets to fit the tracks.

                              They are also heavy and the soft rubber used tends to be a bit to "sticky " when driven on concrete or asphalt causing very poor sluggish turning/handling. You will need to run 390 motors to add the power needed to turn on hard surfaces.

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                              • #35
                                Originally posted by Rubicon99 View Post

                                I have several sets of both the DKLM and Mato tracks. The DKLM have thicker pins and less issues with the track end links coming off. They do not run well on the Challenger 2 unless you use Abrams sprockets vs the shims needed to widen the Challenger sprockets to fit the tracks.

                                They are also heavy and the soft rubber used tends to be a bit to "sticky " when driven on concrete or asphalt causing very poor sluggish turning/handling. You will need to run 390 motors to add the power needed to turn on hard surfaces.
                                In my limited experience, I mostly agree with Rubicon99 on the point he makes. I have two sets of DKLMRC tracks. One on an Abrams and one set on a Challenger. The Abrams does struggle to turn in most situations, compared to the Challenger which has 390 motors. What I do disagree with, is the need to run Abrams sprockets, or widen the Challenger sprockets. I have never had to do this. I have had two sets of sprockets for the Challenger (one pair broke) and both have been the same width and have had excellent interface with the tracks.

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                                • #36
                                  Originally posted by Meter Rat View Post
                                  In my limited experience, I mostly agree with Rubicon99 on the point he makes. I have two sets of DKLMRC tracks. One on an Abrams and one set on a Challenger. The Abrams does struggle to turn in most situations, compared to the Challenger which has 390 motors. What I do disagree with, is the need to run Abrams sprockets, or widen the Challenger sprockets. I have never had to do this. I have had two sets of sprockets for the Challenger (one pair broke) and both have been the same width and have had excellent interface with the tracks.
                                  With the experience of Meter Rat and Rubicon99 , it is clear to me what I need to order when getting the HL Challenger 2. Thank you to both of you.

                                  I have a modified HL metal track on a Pershing, Mato on Sherman and Torro on T34, Tamiya nylon track on Leopard 2A6 and Kooben nylon on HL Merkava. The 2 nylon tracks are tied for my favorite. The Tongde M60A1 keeps the original plastic track for now.

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                                  • #37
                                    My very heavy metal chassis Abrams with TUSK II has no problems turning using the metal/rubber tracks, but it's also running geared 540 motors... I'm using the ones below only with a 540 since a 550 was just a little too long to fit in the Abrams.

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                                    • #38
                                      Originally posted by tank_me View Post
                                      My very heavy metal chassis Abrams with TUSK II has no problems turning using the metal/rubber tracks, but it's also running geared 540 motors... I'm using the ones below only with a 540 since a 550 was just a little too long to fit in the Abrams.

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                                      I am planning on getting a much lighter weight plastic version HL Challenger2. I already have a Heng Xin gearbox with 390 motor. I will try that first to see how it works out.
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                                      The tracks are likely to be the DKLMRC rubber pad metal track. I want to try that because I never have a DKLMRC track. The HL CNC gearbox with 540 motor will be the next step if the 390 Heng Xin does not work well.

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                                      • #39
                                        There are no "HL" 540/550 gearboxes that I am aware of. Hooben has a larger 550 or 775 gearbox as an option, but that one isn't sized for an 8mm shaft as far as I can tell. The normal Hooben CNC gearbox has a 380 on it I believe. I posed that question to Hooben and got no response. The HL CNC gearbox also uses a 380 sized motor and I can verify that as I own like 4 sets of those CNC gearboxes. The ones I'm using were bought through Hobby Raw years ago, but they are the same type that DKLM RC uses in their version of the Leo 2A6 metal hull and their Chally metal hull. Kinda looks like they are not selling the Chally version anymore as it's not on their site anymore. I think the actual manufacturer of these 550 gearboxes is probably Canshuo hence the CS in the name below.

                                        Made by cast aluminum alloy, reliable and durable! full set included; 1. Cast aluminum alloy metal chassis. 2. Cast aluminum alloy rear plate. 3. Metal swing arm with torsion bar suspension. 4. Dual 550 4:1 sealed steel gearbox. 5. Sprocket shaft bearing included. 6. Hull mounting plate. 7. Metal idler and New Metal Sprocket wheels with track guide. 8. Metal road wheels with bearing (5mm holes). rubber tires and wheel caps 9. Metal track return wheels. 10. A pair of Metal track with slot-in replaceable rubber pad. 11. Included LEDs for lower hulls . Set hull will prefect fit for HL upper hull as well as Tamiya Leo2 upper hull (need to slightly modification, prefect for scratch builds too. Lead-time : ship next day if we have stock, 1-2 weeks without stock. Weight : 6.5KG Tank board which can drive this dual gear-box without issues 1. SLU Sound Board with The latest SLU ESC 2. Elmod Fusion Pro with 20A fuse (Elmod mentioned 10A fuse work fine) 3. IBU2 Pro is working fine on the Gearb...

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                                        • #40
                                          This is the Heng Long gearbox available from Toucan Hobby.

                                          Henglong ML49mm ML59mm Steel Gearbox 1/39 or 1/56 Gear Ratio for 1/16 – TOUCAN RC HOBBY (toucanhobby.com)

                                          Unfortunately, no spec for the motors.

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