You must Sign-in or Register to post messages in the Hobby Squawk community
Registration is FREE and only takes a few moments

Register now

Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Heng Long M26 Pershing Build Log

Collapse
X
Collapse
First Prev Next Last
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Heng Long M26 Pershing Build Log

    I decided I needed an Allied tank for tank battles. Not a huge Sherman fan, so I went with the M26 Pershing from Heng Long. I bought the all plastic static kit from Toucan for $112 delivered. At that price I figured even if it was just a shell I could make it work. I was surprised how complete it was. Bob had mentioned before that you pretty much get everything but I didn't believe him. I am waiting for my TK 40 board to arrive, but it looks like if I used an old Heng Long transmitter I could get it running in 10 minutes. Plan is to get it into battle and then figure out what the weaknesses are and fix them later. I want to add recoil to the gun. Any ideas? I ordered the Clark recoil mechanism but could possible 3d print my own. Might cut off the skirts too. I saw a cool track tension mod on RCTANKWARFARE that I might incorporate later too. Need to order an UV bulb and possible a few other odds and ends but the idea is get it going.
    Don't just fly--WREAK HAVOC!!!

  • #2
    From your pictures, the first thing I see is that you might need a pair of HL59 steel gearboxes instead of those plastic ones for battling.

    Comment


    • #3
      Yeah I will probably do that. really want the barrel recoil first and then get the drivetrain upgraded. If the tracks end up giving me issue I will try the track tensioning mod and upgrade the gears as I have to take off the drive wheels for that mod.
      Don't just fly--WREAK HAVOC!!!

      Comment


      • #4
        Do you have a link for the tentioner mod thread I would like to do it on mine
        Thanks

        Comment


        • #5
          I've run plastic gearboxes at battles and haven't had any fail yet. I'd recommend a LegoDEI IR receiver and stronger IR bulbs as your first add-ons. I recently bought some HL metal tracks from Toucan, to give the tank a bit more weight, $89 I believe. And yes, definitely remove the skirts. Makes it look meaner!

          Click image for larger version

Name:	M26 02.jpg
Views:	493
Size:	294.4 KB
ID:	340843 ​​​​​​​
          Twenty six tanks, and not done yet!

          Comment


          • #6
            My tank needs the metal gearboxes since it is quite heavy as all the idlers, sprockets, road wheels and tracks are metal.

            Comment


            • #7
              I agree, unless you upgrade the tracks you don't really need the metal GB. Like servos, plastic gears can have an advantage over metal. Karbonite servo gears seem to be ideal but that's not a choice here. That said as soon as you swap out tracks you need the metal sprockets, idlers and gear box... Didn't take long to figure that out and that the stock upgrade metal tracks aren't good enough for the larger Leopard and Challenger.

              With the help of you all I have all my tanks really running smooth, thank you! I run them just about every day in my back yard area, lots of grades, tree roots, vegetation and tactically placed bricks, blocks, metal items and such. The bare areas of dirt are nice and loamy, no rocks or pebbles. Having a BBQ and friends over tomorrow for some friendly battles. :)

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by Vaseline View Post
                Do you have a link for the tentioner mod thread I would like to do it on mine
                Thanks
                This is not my idea. It is from Strmnd54' on RCTANKWARFARE. Looks like a fantastic idea. I will definitely try and make it.
                Attached Files
                Don't just fly--WREAK HAVOC!!!

                Comment


                • #9
                  This is all I got done today. Painting the tracks. I also don't know which direction they go back on. Any help would be appreciated.
                  Don't just fly--WREAK HAVOC!!!

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by quitcherbitchen View Post

                    This is not my idea. It is from Strmnd54' on RCTANKWARFARE. Looks like a fantastic idea. I will definitely try and make it.
                    Why waist your time unless you want a challenge. The HL Pershing does NOT need that modification. It is actually a very reliable and good running tank right from the factory. At most all it needs are the metal idler front suspension/control arms.

                    A note about metal wheels if you go that route. Don’t use ones for the idler wheels use the plastic only. Why? Because the rubber on the metal idler wheel tends to grab the track teeth when the tank is reversing in turns and this causes a de-tracking issue. The plastic wheels let the track teeth slip back into the slot between the two wheel halves.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by quitcherbitchen View Post
                      This is all I got done today. Painting the tracks. I also don't know which direction they go back on. Any help would be appreciated.
                      Chevrons pointed forward.

                      But with them pointed backwards testing shows you actually get slightly better grip with the HL plastic tracks.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        So I will leave them backwards. That is how I put them on as it made more sense. Thanks
                        Don't just fly--WREAK HAVOC!!!

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by Rubicon99 View Post

                          Why waist your time unless you want a challenge. The HL Pershing does NOT need that modification. It is actually a very reliable and good running tank right from the factory. At most all it needs are the metal idler front suspension/control arms.

                          A note about metal wheels if you go that route. Don’t use ones for the idler wheels use the plastic only. Why? Because the rubber on the metal idler wheel tends to grab the track teeth when the tank is reversing in turns and this causes a de-tracking issue. The plastic wheels let the track teeth slip back into the slot between the two wheel halves.
                          I believe you about it being reliable. One reason why I picked the Pershing. If you look at all 13 photos one shows the track eating a twig and nothing happening to the track. Seams like battlefield insurance to me. I like to tinker, but I will use the tank before going that far. It may not need it. My proving ground will test it. My Panzer used to drop track all the time until I got the Mato adjuster. Problems solved.
                          Don't just fly--WREAK HAVOC!!!

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Click image for larger version

Name:	Pershing Barrel.jpg
Views:	388
Size:	156.6 KB
ID:	342894Click image for larger version

Name:	Pershing Barrel.jpg
Views:	393
Size:	156.6 KB
ID:	342895 Any ideas on how take apart the stock barrel so I can add my Clark recoil unit.? Debonder or cut it?
                            Attached Files
                            Don't just fly--WREAK HAVOC!!!

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              QB, not sure what you're asking. The muzzle brake is screwed on. Really tight! The barrel is only pressed into the mantlet, no glue there.
                              Twenty six tanks, and not done yet!

                              Comment


                              • #16
                                wow if it isn't glued then it is super tight. I already got the metal barrel out, I want to mod the barrel to recoil. The plastic barrel need to be removed to add an extension.
                                Don't just fly--WREAK HAVOC!!!

                                Comment


                                • #17
                                  I think it is glued. Does anyone think the M36 Metal Mato barrel would look like the M26 barrel?
                                  Don't just fly--WREAK HAVOC!!!

                                  Comment


                                  • #18
                                    Originally posted by quitcherbitchen View Post
                                    I think it is glued. Does anyone think the M36 Metal Mato barrel would look like the M26 barrel?
                                    The M36 barrel is nearly identical to the Tamiya Pershing barrel. I was about to recommend one.

                                    I have spare Tamiya Pershing and M36 barrels here is a side by side photo. Top M36, bottom Tamiya Pershing. Both will need you to work up a mounting method for the HL muzzle brake.
                                    Click image for larger version  Name:	B4A9BF3D-B2F4-447E-9897-A067BCE0BF9B.jpeg Views:	0 Size:	107.1 KB ID:	342917

                                    Comment


                                    • #19
                                      Thanks Eric that is all I needed to know. I will order the M36 barrel.
                                      Don't just fly--WREAK HAVOC!!!

                                      Comment


                                      • #20
                                        Rubicon99 is not Eric.
                                        he goes by Fsttanks on Instagram and other places as well, you have seen him at the LA Tank battles.

                                        And I was a going to suggest the same thing if you want to add recoil and realistic barrel length to your Pershing.

                                        Comment

                                        Working...
                                        X