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Heng Long M26 Pershing Build Log
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Originally posted by ArmorBolt View PostIt seems the Pershing is highly recommended, so for the Pershing, getting one with metal track, metal sprocket, steel gearbox would be a nice running battle tank, is that correct.. just like the one listed in MotionRC for $199. Do you really need metal roadwheels, or metal idler wheel. Thanks.
1/16 Scale USA Pershing Professional Edition Battle Tank - RTR from Heng Long HLG3838-002 The American M26 Pershing was used in the last months of WWII and extensively during the Korean War. Over 2,200 units were manufactured, powered by 500HP Ford gasoline engines, and firepower was supplied by the primary 90mm cannon
It seems though that one advantage to the metal road wheels is that they usually come with bearings, where the plastic wheels do not. So with whatever losses in power/speed you have with the added weight, the bearings might make up for. Not to mention bearings will be better for use outdoors in general I think anyway.
Clay
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The real M-26 was no racecar. Also, I use the stock plastic and It was recommended to me to remove the inner track retention ring from the sprocket to prevent dirt from loading up and de-tracking. The stock plastic treads have lots of holes in the top which fill with dirt. The metal don't. I have been tempted to get the metal, but the inner ring removal seem to have solved the issue. Only other issue is the sprocket getting loose.Don't just fly--WREAK HAVOC!!!
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Recently purchased the "metal" version of this Pershing. Last night while putting the road wheels on after painting the Tank, I set the Tank on my workbench and broke a shock in half. Tank has never even been ran yet. I was about to cry when I realized this Tank uses the same exact shocks as the Walker Bulldog. On my bulldog, I swapped all the plastic shocks fpr metal ones so I still had all the old palstic shocks in a spare parts box. The swap was relatively painless. I then quickly ordered more metal shocks. The moral of this story is: Anyone who has this tank, and is planning on running it hard or going into battle with it, I strongly reccommend metal shocks.
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Since I'm still finishing up the KV-1E, I haven't started on my Pershing yet. I tend to like the all metal road wheels in addition to the sprockets and idlers. They typically come with the metal suspension arms which IMO don't flex and move around so much. I like the fact they come with bearings, the added weight seems to reduce the "bounciness" of lighter tanks, and it doesn't affect my runtime as I've never pushed my 18650 based Li-Ion 2S2P battery packs even close to empty in a battle day.
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Originally posted by tank_me View PostSince I'm still finishing up the KV-1E, I haven't started on my Pershing yet. I tend to like the all metal road wheels in addition to the sprockets and idlers. They typically come with the metal suspension arms which IMO don't flex and move around so much. I like the fact they come with bearings, the added weight seems to reduce the "bounciness" of lighter tanks, and it doesn't affect my runtime as I've never pushed my 18650 based Li-Ion 2S2P battery packs even close to empty in a battle day.
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Originally posted by DavidN View PostI had the same problem with my plastic suspension bars in my M41. They broke easily. I will order the metal shocks and take those plastic out.
Screen shot from my Instagram of just one of the “airborne” slow motion videos of my M41 being miss used. LOL
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Originally posted by DavidN View PostI had the same problem with my plastic suspension bars in my M41. They broke easily. I will order the metal shocks and take those plastic out.
Be sure to get them for the Pershing & not the Bulldog....you need 12, not 10
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