Originally posted by sclui56
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I havnt driven it at all.....My work has me on the road allot lately. In all hoenesty, and as Rich has pointed out-Its not worth the money. If I could have put my hands on a Taigen Stug, I would have gone that route for sure. The suspension seems ok at first glance, but thats not saying allot with no road time. The + side, I did buy it $90 cheaper than asking price.
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Got it, yes, just too much bad press on Mato. There's no Taigen Stug, I was even considering a Taigen upper alone but no dice, not even from outside the U.S. I may just build one up using HL upper and my Taigen PZ3 lower.Originally posted by Zippersnapper View Post
I havnt driven it at all.....My work has me on the road allot lately. In all hoenesty, and as Rich has pointed out-Its not worth the money. If I could have put my hands on a Taigen Stug, I would have gone that route for sure. The suspension seems ok at first glance, but thats not saying allot with no road time. The + side, I did buy it $90 cheaper than asking price.
Thanks & good luck.
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SoCal RC Tank Club Facebook Group
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SoCal RC Tank Club Facebook Group
Largest active RC Tank club in Southern California
Gathering 1-2x monthly/All Ages & Experience levels welcome
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Not entirely sure, the turret itself is not difficult, the top deck is a bit thin for the gap between turret and ring, which can be shimmed. The barrel mount is another story and I have seen some very elaborate rebuild that I am incapable of replicating, so short answer - not sure ATM.Originally posted by 761st View Post
How to you plan on fixing that?
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No it doesn’t. But it does jerk a lot when I fire. Maybe I should cut 1/3 off the spring inside the air-soft unit.SoCal RC Tank Club Facebook Group
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I can't quite give an accurate description but, as I recall someone had placed counter weights along the plastic mechanism mounted to the barrel. I wish I had taken pictures. Seems if there is a fulcrum that may work.Originally posted by sclui56 View Post
Not entirely sure, the turret itself is not difficult, the top deck is a bit thin for the gap between turret and ring, which can be shimmed. The barrel mount is another story and I have seen some very elaborate rebuild that I am incapable of replicating, so short answer - not sure ATM.
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Not to be off-topic, but I think this is what you read https://www.rctankwarfare.co.uk/foru...+tiger#p314783Originally posted by 761st View Post
I can't quite give an accurate description but, as I recall someone had placed counter weights along the plastic mechanism mounted to the barrel. I wish I had taken pictures. Seems if there is a fulcrum that may work.
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I was able to use my Sony TV remote and follow the instruction from the Clark's board website. I fixed the reloading times to 9 seconds instead of 13. The hull jerks very slightly when the cannon fires. No need to cut the spring inside the air soft unit :-) The KT is good to play.SoCal RC Tank Club Facebook Group
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I bought the SONY remote control from DAKRC. I have the transmitter off. I plug in the jumper into port J2 (top and middle pins). I turn the board on. I press the "increase volume" (red circle) until the light on the IR LED only flashes 1x. It does go up to 16x. I then turn off the board and unplug the jumper. Done.
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