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Mato M36B1

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  • #41
    Got it! I will prime 3 layers of blacks, put a tank next to it and test it. If it “leaks”, I will replace it with a metal tube. If it doesn’t, then I will continue with my paint job. Thank you!

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    • #42
      Originally posted by DavidN View Post
      Got it! I will prime 3 layers of blacks, put a tank next to it and test it. If it “leaks”, I will replace it with a metal tube. If it doesn’t, then I will continue with my paint job. Thank you!
      👍👍

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      • #43
        Here's a question for Mato owners: The wheels on my M36 are rubber. Am I right to raise the tank during storage to eliminate flat spots? (I have.) Do you keep your rubber tired tanks raised? If not, did you get flat spots? Were they permanent?
        Twenty six tanks, and not done yet!

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        • #44
          Originally posted by SoCalBobS View Post
          Here's a question for Mato owners: The wheels on my M36 are rubber. Am I right to raise the tank during storage to eliminate flat spots? (I have.) Do you keep your rubber tired tanks raised? If not, did you get flat spots? Were they permanent?
          It will take years for flat spots to even become visible. I have Tamiya tanks from the late 70s with rubber road wheels that have been sitting for decades and they are still round. Cracked sure...LoL but round. Still you cannot go wrong raising a tank (especially heavy tanks) as this will take the load off the suspension springs which will take a seat over time and give the tank some sagging. This happens much faster then developing road wheel flat spots.

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          • #45
            Mine is done. It's French :-)

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            • #46
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              • #47
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                • #48
                  Very nice. How did you manage painting the wheels and not the tires?
                  Twenty six tanks, and not done yet!

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                  • #49
                    Sorry for the late response. I have just gotten home from work. I used Tamiya acrylic paint for the tank. Then I took the Q-tips, dipped them in lacquer thinner and rubbed the paint off. With one finger from 1 hand, I rotated the wheel while the other hand pressed and twisted the Q-tip onto rubber tires. The paint came off quite easily.

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                    • #50
                      Originally posted by DavidN View Post
                      Sorry for the late response. I have just gotten home from work. I used Tamiya acrylic paint for the tank. Then I took the Q-tips, dipped them in lacquer thinner and rubbed the paint off. With one finger from 1 hand, I rotated the wheel while the other hand pressed and twisted the Q-tip onto rubber tires. The paint came off quite easily.
                      Cool! Great tip (pun intended).
                      Twenty six tanks, and not done yet!

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                      • #51
                        David, since you love Clark boards, I've got a hellava deal for you sir.

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                        • #52
                          Originally posted by Zippersnapper View Post
                          David, since you love Clark boards, I've got a hellava deal for you sir.
                          Thank you! I like a tank that recoils when I fire the cannon :-) I am happy with the Clark boards since I can drive my tanks with a nice controller. I am only ok with the HL 6.1/7.1 boards and the HL controller.

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                          • #53
                            Me too. The TK 7.0 is utter crap.

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                            • #54
                              Originally posted by DavidN View Post
                              Sorry for the late response. I have just gotten home from work. I used Tamiya acrylic paint for the tank. Then I took the Q-tips, dipped them in lacquer thinner and rubbed the paint off. With one finger from 1 hand, I rotated the wheel while the other hand pressed and twisted the Q-tip onto rubber tires. The paint came off quite easily.
                              Thats excatly how I did mine. Couldnt figure out how to remove the wheels/bogie's to save my life. Henglong really threw a curve ball on this one.

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                              • #55
                                Them Shermans are a pain! I actually had to drill a tiny hole in each (plastic) plug, insert a tiny screw and pull them out to get to the bogie screws. This leaves that hole. If you're doing a fine scale tank, you could putty the holes, but I've left the small holes in case I gotta get in there again!
                                Twenty six tanks, and not done yet!

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                                • #56
                                  The henglong wheels unscrew from the back side on the plastic version. I don’t know on the metal bogies. Popping the plug out of the center of the bogie exposes the screw so don’t glue those in and you can gently pry them out with a tiny flat screwdriver.
                                  but this is why I prefer taigen Sherman’s over henglong. Better build and serviceability.
                                  RC tank parts and accessories I make
                                  www.RichardSJohnson.net/id28.html

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                                  • #57
                                    David, what did you do with the metal canopy over the turret? Did you permanently attach it, or leave it loose?
                                    Twenty six tanks, and not done yet!

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                                    • #58
                                      Originally posted by SoCalBobS View Post
                                      David, what did you do with the metal canopy over the turret? Did you permanently attach it, or leave it loose?
                                      At this moment, it is still loose. I will probably glue it along with the LegoDEI IR receiver when I take it to the battle.

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                                      • #59
                                        Just hooked up a Flysky to my Mato tank. I like it better already, got it set up like my HL tanks.
                                        Twenty six tanks, and not done yet!

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                                        • #60
                                          I couldnt pry the caps off the Bogie's to expose the screws on mine without boogering them up, I tried.

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